YearsOfDecay

Its gotten cold now here in PA so I put the E-Fan back on the car cause the temps were runnin to low with the stock fan on it.... (TII) Haltech e6K

Every now and then, my idle goes whacky on me... it dances around... and it doesnt do it all the time.... when it does it, it jumps up and down almost like its too lean and its hunting, but the wideband says its not.... and its quicker than a lean hunt...

if the lights are on... dosn't do it... if the brakes are on at a stop lite.. doesnt do it.. if the E-fan is on... doesn't do it.. when something is drawing current, its perfect, doesn't do it under warmup when the BAC has the idle up to 2 grand..

Makes it seem like its something electrical, because it only does it when the system is pullin current... However, doesn't do it with the stock fan on, so it could be a load issue.

I'm pullin 16Inches of vac at 820 Rpms and the vac holds steady....

Now... I have a Yellow Top optima battery instead of a red top cause i got it CHEAP... dunno, says yellow tops aren't reccomended for starting the car....

I haven't checked my spark plugs yet, do that tomorrow... but I'm lookin for other thigns to check here.... Haltech, Charging system, leaky turbo gasketts, why does it only do it when there's no load or current draw.....

I have High impedance stock 550 Primaries and Low secondaries (1600's)

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated... it never did it when it was warmer out, in fact, my idle was rock solid, i thought it would be a pain with a ported motor, but its always been perfect, not even missing a beat like every other modded 7 i see....

pengarufoo

hrm, sounds like you may be onto it with the electrical stuff, whats the voltage like when it happens?

other thing you may want to play with is the rotary trailing split @ idle.

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

my car does the exact same thing. if i turn the rear defroster on, the idle is rock solid. if i have no electrical load, the idle is slightly rough... never figured it out.

pengarufoo

look at your fuel map where idle is at, is the bar different when the defroster is on vs off? The increase in load on the engine will make the vac drop a small amount, that means it will reference the next bar over (to the right) more than without the extra load. It's possible the next bar over is not tuned quite right, tuning idle can be a touchy process to get it perfect.

I'd try letting the car idle when it's fully warmed up, with no extra load on the engine look at the fuel map where the engine is at.... note the bar(s) being referenced. Now turn on the electrical load that smooths out the idle, note the bars being referenced. If nothing changes at all in the bars being referenced it will be a bit more difficult to change the right ones if something needs changing, if it's obvious which ones are referenced without the load, tweak them a bit, likely in the direction of where the ones are that have the smooth idle.

The other thing you need to look at is the voltage, when you turn your defroster on, the voltage may be dropping significantly. Look at the battery voltage correction map, with no electrical load, look at what bar is being referenced in this map, then turn on the defroster and see what bar is being referenced. If it changes (likely) it's possible the correction factor is different in the two cases, you need to adjust the one that has the rough idle a little bit.