No, I never offered to nor do I plan on it. But, that has nothing to do with what I was saying earlier.

That's sure to win some business.

B

 

I don't *** kiss around for business or put on a front. People call me because they like my work not because I suck up to people.

 

Listen mate, when i offer my services to someone i do the job completely, i take pride in what i do and i always make sure that the car runs better than stock as far as driveability goes and make all the power it can make, and if i have to suggest the use of different parts to make it better i will. And i offer help to anybody that asks me for it, and if you havent logged on to the forum in a year or more there just so happens to be a base maps thread available for haltech users provided free of charge by me! with nothing but interest in helping people.

So **** you **** ball, i do my job and do it right.

 

Your base map sucks we ran it.

 

OK people, that's enough of that. No more insults, no more sniping at each other, no more flames. In other words, grow up. I'll be monitoring this thread for future problems and warnings/bans will be issued as appropriate.

 

A Brief Description of a Base Map.-

If it didnt work on your setup, the map wasnt for it, or you dont realize what you have to do next. I've had plenty of people tell me some of my base maps start and run their cars, but like all base maps, they are just that BASE MAPS, not meant to be taken on the road, its a tool to help you get started a lot quicker than if you'd had to do the entire thing from scratch. Some base maps are a lot closer to being dead on on some engines than others, there are too many possibilities for us to come up with them so people who dont (or cant) do a map from scratch can be satisfied. Weather conditions, altitude differences from place to place, all these things play a part in getting a map to work the way it needs to on any given car. And its something that take time to accomplish, sometimes even days of tweaking the settings so its as best as possible.

Think about that next time you go asking for base maps, maybe you should come up with your own base maps. Or maybe i should stop helping people all together. Hell it hasnt gotten me anywhere anyway.

 

I guess some questions just never can get anwered. Like the main one that was the first post. Hell Reted and ice have been the only ones that have been close at helpfull in the fact they mentioned egt sensor and advancing timing slowly. But are you looking for cooler exhaust temps or what. What is the main goal for the timing maps is the only question i've been waiting to get an answer for.

 

Yeah, pardon my miss guided miss directing of the thread. The fact is that to be able to get a good timing map, you need to observe exhaust temps, o2 ratio, and basically start from a conservative starting point. Then when you've got the fuel dialed in decently you can turn your attention to the timing. Now, depending on who you talk to, who's philosophy you take as your own, there will be plenty of opinions. What you can do is after you've got your base line at say 10psi dialed in good, start raising timing 1 or 2 degrees at a time, you will find that timing changes make more power sometimes than fuel (once the fuel is dialed in of course).

So, dont be in a hurry to bump the timing up too much, start small and go from there. Most people are a little reluctant to go in small increments since the dyno clock is ticking. But that would be my suggestion.

 

I see. Thanks. Basically get a base timing map and then basically everything around the timing then that gives the extra boost in the programming.

 

Yes, when you have a car that runs pretty good on your current setup, lets assume for a minute that its a conservative ignition tune, and you have the fuel right where you want it perfectly, you now have the chance to start looking for more power, both by raising boost, slowly, making sure things are still ok, since the higher you go with the boost you'll be going into different areas of the map that you hadnt before. So, when you feel you've reached the limit of boost that you will run, and your fueling is taken care of, and the car is making X amount of horsepower, you can now try and raise the timing to find more power. Its very likely that you will find plenty more, all around the powerband.

The trick is to not be greedy and dont go overboard by trying to reach that maximum threshold of timing that produces the maximum power, but to gradually raise it untill you are satisfied. Then back it up 1 or 2 degrees for safety.

On a personal note, my first ever dyno tune, was on my own turbo FC with an E6S installed in it, and i was making 323hp@16psi around 6000 rpms, and my timing was around 15 degrees. Now i know thats not the best power in the world for these cars, and i was a complete amateur when it came to haltech, and i had plenty of problems to boot, bad plugs, boost leaks, crummy intercooler and poorly combined turbo to name a few, and the mixture was on the lean side. If i could go back to that day knowing what i'd know now, i probably would've ended up making over 370hp @ much less boost than if i would've had all good working hardware.

So, you have to start somewhere, take baby steps until you are 100% sure of the results and aware of all the variables that are happening at the same time, cause its a lot of them.