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Haltech PS1k plug n play spark issue

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Old Jul 2, 2012 | 04:43 PM
  #1  
bewst12psi's Avatar
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My car is green
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From: Reading PA
PS1k plug n play spark issue

Hey guys,
I'm helping a friend put his car together using the PS1k plug and play setup on his S5 bridgeport. I went set the basic timing with the CAS and changing the trigger angle in the laptop, but noticed we aren't getting any spark.

We have:
- good cranking signal (300rpm on laptop screen)
-set up both home and and trigger gauge on screen and we are getting both signals with 11 between each.
-12v at leading and trailing coil
-a known good map/tune that I run in my car

now I check for switching at the leading coil, and I am not getting a fluctuation. it just stays at cranking voltage and there is no "on-off" to fire the coil. I ohm the wiring out and it tests ok. I then disconnected the ECU from the car and check for voltage across the coil plug and got a few mV reading.

I then thought that there was an issue with the ECU itself....so I swapped it into my car since it has my tune in it.... Car fired right up without so much as a hiccup.

Back to the car... Looking at the wiring diagram the g/y wire from the coil to the ECU is a straight shot.... I dont understand how it fires/switches on my car, but will not on his if we a good home and trigger signal. The coils are fine also. We swapped from my car and had the same issue.

I had him go over all the grounds and he says they're fine... unless there's something being overlooked.

If anyone has any insight into this problem, please let me know!! I'm at work right now while my buddy is back working on his car, and from the irate texts i'm getting, Id hate to see a hammer end up through the door of the car lol.

thanks guys
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 09:07 AM
  #2  
Fero313's Avatar
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From: Nashville, TN
since you can swap out parts easily maybe swap the whole coil pack from your car? The ignitor on the bottom could be bad.

Also, know that the 12v wire will always be 12v. The trigger wire grounds the coil to complete the circuit and "fire" the coil.

At the leading coil you should have:

one pin- 12v+ switched
other pin- open until pulled to ground by ecu



***Also, have you been turning the injectors off during cranking? Plugs could be fouled by now.
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Old Jul 3, 2012 | 04:50 PM
  #3  
bewst12psi's Avatar
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My car is green
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From: Reading PA
Originally Posted by Fero313
since you can swap out parts easily maybe swap the whole coil pack from your car? The ignitor on the bottom could be bad.

Also, know that the 12v wire will always be 12v. The trigger wire grounds the coil to complete the circuit and "fire" the coil.

At the leading coil you should have:

one pin- 12v+ switched
other pin- open until pulled to ground by ecu



***Also, have you been turning the injectors off during cranking? Plugs could be fouled by now.
yeah i know it is always 12 and the other wire is a pull down to fire the coil. i know the system. The mV reading was just feedback through the Fluke.

Already switched both coils.... including the ignitor since its build into the trailing coil.

I had him doing some diag on it while i was at work... I found that if he pulls the CAS out and turns it by hand w/o cranking the car and the key is on, the coils will fire. but under a load (cranking it will not fire the coils). Also, I have had him pull the cas cover off and watch it spin.... we know that it is meshing with the e-shaft.

A 40A battery charger is on the car the whole time.... voltage doesnt drop below 11.5 when cranking. not a power supply issue.

I am leaning towards bad grounds at this point.... I'm not going with an IGN switch because I never lose connection with the ECU on the laptop or voltage to the injectors, or coils.

We'll see where this ends up....

Thanks for the input!
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