Haltech P1K + 13B Harness - Not FD?
06-03-11, 08:51 AM
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P1K + 13B Harness - Not FD?
Is there a way to adapt the 13B harness to the S6+ WITHOUT having to swap front covers out?
I've searched and talked to several sources (including Haltech, who I awaiting a ring back from) and the Puerto Ricans use it, but go BACK toe the low-rez S4/ S5 CAS to get it done...
NTM it omits the EOMP from the option.
Little help, here?
I've searched and talked to several sources (including Haltech, who I awaiting a ring back from) and the Puerto Ricans use it, but go BACK toe the low-rez S4/ S5 CAS to get it done...
NTM it omits the EOMP from the option.
Little help, here?
06-03-11, 11:29 AM
#2
It could be done. But it would require a good bit of rework. The trans loom is integrated into the emissions harness, and that complicates things quite a bit. There is more to it than just the CAS.
We've built custom harnesses for the FD and can do so for around the same price that Haltech charges for the FC harness. It's "mostly" plug-in, though a few connections have to be made. The other option is the FD patch loom which adapts the Haltech to the stock wiring.
We've built custom harnesses for the FD and can do so for around the same price that Haltech charges for the FC harness. It's "mostly" plug-in, though a few connections have to be made. The other option is the FD patch loom which adapts the Haltech to the stock wiring.
06-03-11, 01:12 PM
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Diregard - that was posted before the response from Haltech came in.
No it doesn't require that much work. Trans loom isn't even a consideration, since it's going in a car that doesn't require the speed or reverse sensors...
Here's the solution that Matt from Haltech sent me:
"
Hi Ant – I see your problem, Im looking at one of those harnesses right now and its certainly setup for the S4/S5 engine. Its not a huge deal, you wont have to remove the front cover or anything like that ! The easy thing for you to do is to cut that white 4 pin plug off and wire two new connectors that go to your two crankshaft position sensors. The wire that goes to that connector should be a 4 core shielded wire, the 4 wires inside will be yellow, green, blue and red (on the Haltech side) on the engine you have 2 identical sensors, one reads the 12 pulse signal (and should have a black and green wire attached) and the other reads the single pulse signal (and should have a white and red wire attached). Connect the 4 Haltech wires from within the 4 core shielded wire as follows:
Haltech Yellow – Mazda Black (this is the signal wire on the 12 pulse sensor);
Haltech Blue – Mazda Green (this is the signal ground wire on the 12 pulse sensor);
Haltech Green – Mazda White (this is the signal wire on the 1 pulse sensor);
Haltech Red – Mazda Red (this is the signal ground wire on the 1 pulse sensor)
The only other difference in engines is the oil metering pump, on the S4 engine the OMP is mechanical however on your S5/S6 engine the OMP is electric and therefore you need to wire up (unless you plan on using premix).
Its easy to do and I have attached a wiring diagram for it, the only difficulty is that these 4 wires are currently not in your wiring harness, they are easy to add in – shoot me over your address and I can send you some pins and wire so you can add these wires to the harness. Basically what you need to add in are the 4 stepper motor wires (in most applications these wires are used for idle control, mazda does not use a 4 wire idle motor so they don’t get used for idle speed on a rotary engine which is good because it means we can use them to control the OMP). These wires will be added into pins 31,32,33 and 34 of the larger connector that goes to the Haltech ECU. Adding these wires is quite simple, just disconnect the ECU from the harness, there is a white locking tab on the connector (on one side of the connector is 1 tab, on the other side its 2 tabs) depress the lock tab on the side of the connector that has the single tab it should move about 1/8th of an inch you now just push the new wires that im going to send you into the back of the connector in the correct location (if you look closely at the back of the connector the pin locations are numbered at each end). Once all 4 wires are insterted push the two lock tabs back in place (if the tabs don’t click back in place easily its likely one of the pins is not located deep enough in the connector preventing the tab from locking). You will see on the diagram that for the OMP feedback you will need to also send 5V and ground plus one of the AVIs to the OMP the 5V and Gnd you can get from the 4 pin trim connector which is near the ECU (all ground wires in the harness are black/white and all 5V wires are orange) – you don’t have to use AVI3, any AVI can be used just be sure to set whichever AVI you do use as the OMP feedback in the software.
Clear as mud now?
If you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to get back to me.
Kind Regards,
Matt Wright
International Project Manager
Haltech Engine Management Systems
Email: matt@haltech.com
Web: www.haltech.com
"
No it doesn't require that much work. Trans loom isn't even a consideration, since it's going in a car that doesn't require the speed or reverse sensors...
Here's the solution that Matt from Haltech sent me:
"
Hi Ant – I see your problem, Im looking at one of those harnesses right now and its certainly setup for the S4/S5 engine. Its not a huge deal, you wont have to remove the front cover or anything like that ! The easy thing for you to do is to cut that white 4 pin plug off and wire two new connectors that go to your two crankshaft position sensors. The wire that goes to that connector should be a 4 core shielded wire, the 4 wires inside will be yellow, green, blue and red (on the Haltech side) on the engine you have 2 identical sensors, one reads the 12 pulse signal (and should have a black and green wire attached) and the other reads the single pulse signal (and should have a white and red wire attached). Connect the 4 Haltech wires from within the 4 core shielded wire as follows:
Haltech Yellow – Mazda Black (this is the signal wire on the 12 pulse sensor);
Haltech Blue – Mazda Green (this is the signal ground wire on the 12 pulse sensor);
Haltech Green – Mazda White (this is the signal wire on the 1 pulse sensor);
Haltech Red – Mazda Red (this is the signal ground wire on the 1 pulse sensor)
The only other difference in engines is the oil metering pump, on the S4 engine the OMP is mechanical however on your S5/S6 engine the OMP is electric and therefore you need to wire up (unless you plan on using premix).
Its easy to do and I have attached a wiring diagram for it, the only difficulty is that these 4 wires are currently not in your wiring harness, they are easy to add in – shoot me over your address and I can send you some pins and wire so you can add these wires to the harness. Basically what you need to add in are the 4 stepper motor wires (in most applications these wires are used for idle control, mazda does not use a 4 wire idle motor so they don’t get used for idle speed on a rotary engine which is good because it means we can use them to control the OMP). These wires will be added into pins 31,32,33 and 34 of the larger connector that goes to the Haltech ECU. Adding these wires is quite simple, just disconnect the ECU from the harness, there is a white locking tab on the connector (on one side of the connector is 1 tab, on the other side its 2 tabs) depress the lock tab on the side of the connector that has the single tab it should move about 1/8th of an inch you now just push the new wires that im going to send you into the back of the connector in the correct location (if you look closely at the back of the connector the pin locations are numbered at each end). Once all 4 wires are insterted push the two lock tabs back in place (if the tabs don’t click back in place easily its likely one of the pins is not located deep enough in the connector preventing the tab from locking). You will see on the diagram that for the OMP feedback you will need to also send 5V and ground plus one of the AVIs to the OMP the 5V and Gnd you can get from the 4 pin trim connector which is near the ECU (all ground wires in the harness are black/white and all 5V wires are orange) – you don’t have to use AVI3, any AVI can be used just be sure to set whichever AVI you do use as the OMP feedback in the software.
Clear as mud now?
If you have any further questions please don’t hesitate to get back to me.
Kind Regards,
Matt Wright
International Project Manager
Haltech Engine Management Systems
Email: matt@haltech.com
Web: www.haltech.com
"
Last edited by TrboSpdAnt; 06-03-11 at 01:29 PM. Reason: Pic
06-03-11, 11:07 PM
#4
What are you using for ignition? The harnesses comes setup for LS1 coils or the new Haltech HPI4 ignitor. Right now Bosch coils are half price when you purchase one of the HPI4 ignitors.
Also, the Haltech terminated harnesses are only available when purchased with an ECU. If you already have an ECU you can probably find a dealer that will seperate to sell you the harness only. If you'd like a quote drop me a PM.
Also, the Haltech terminated harnesses are only available when purchased with an ECU. If you already have an ECU you can probably find a dealer that will seperate to sell you the harness only. If you'd like a quote drop me a PM.
06-04-11, 03:19 AM
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LS2 coils.
I have the ENTIRE P1000 ECU and 13B, terminated, harness with the LS# harness, as well.
Thanks for the offer, but I have - technically - everything I need. The only thing that it DOESN'T do, native, is support EOMP usage.
That's okay, though - I have the work-around for it, and both the proper pins to wire from and the pins+wiring to run.
I may, however, have connector questions, once I get it back in the car (the entire OEM harness is kaput, to do a rewire and kaBILLION-point cage). I noticed some oddly-named connections that I may need identified.
The OP was just a posted, not knowing that the tech from Haltech was actually going to get back to me.
Thanks for the offer, man!
(Oh, BTW: You really should get your kidneys looked at. From the look of your skin, in your avatar, you have some SERIOUS jaundicing going on.
)
I have the ENTIRE P1000 ECU and 13B, terminated, harness with the LS# harness, as well.
Thanks for the offer, but I have - technically - everything I need. The only thing that it DOESN'T do, native, is support EOMP usage.
That's okay, though - I have the work-around for it, and both the proper pins to wire from and the pins+wiring to run.
I may, however, have connector questions, once I get it back in the car (the entire OEM harness is kaput, to do a rewire and kaBILLION-point cage). I noticed some oddly-named connections that I may need identified.
The OP was just a posted, not knowing that the tech from Haltech was actually going to get back to me.
Thanks for the offer, man!
(Oh, BTW: You really should get your kidneys looked at. From the look of your skin, in your avatar, you have some SERIOUS jaundicing going on.
)
06-04-11, 07:35 AM
#6
hahahaha
If you have any questions, feel free to give me a shout. We also have the FD crank sensor connector kits and the mating kit for the FC CAS (CAS side) so you could make a short jumper between the connectors instead of cutting up your harness. Or, if you just want to extend it, add the FD connectors. Also have new pins and seals for the OMP connector, so you can rebuild it instead of using a pigtail. Just makes for a cleaner install.
If you have any questions, feel free to give me a shout. We also have the FD crank sensor connector kits and the mating kit for the FC CAS (CAS side) so you could make a short jumper between the connectors instead of cutting up your harness. Or, if you just want to extend it, add the FD connectors. Also have new pins and seals for the OMP connector, so you can rebuild it instead of using a pigtail. Just makes for a cleaner install.
