Can somebody help me out here. I while back before my hayes motor kick the bucket on me at 3k miles. I loaded a new map that Steve at gotham racing sent me. After I loaded the map the car idled fine, a little rich but fine. I drive the car a little ways and at the red light the car idled like the motor was losing compression. The car did the same thing when I have a vacum leak from a hose that blue of. The car would hunt for idle around 1500-2000 rpms(rum, rum,rum,rum,rum and you get the point) . Is there a possible way that its the map. My car motor kicked the bucket the next day.
I have a new motor now and dont want to destroy it in anyway. The motor was over heated form before and I guess the seal decide to blow then( It over heated during break in , but its a long story,traffic is a bitch)
back to what I talking about, would it be the map causing the engine to idle funny? Or the motor about to go. It wasnt a apex seal!
What should I do? thanks in advance

 

any map not custom tuned for your car is suspect. use the map supplied to beak in the engine while you monitor the EGT or AFM. if you do not have these tuning instruments then you need to take the car to someone who does. a map you downloaded from the internet is not going to be the end of your tuning. use these maps to get the car running and start your tuning from there. similair engines and modifications don't mean the map will be the same. yes the map could cause a bad idle, but so can a dozen other things. if you cannot get the engine to idle smothly you may need some tuning help. also be sure you zero the timing every time a new map is loaded. if you don't know what this is or don't have the tools to do it don't run the engine until you find someone to do it for you. improper timing kills more engines than anything, rotary or piston. be careful.

 

Hey Tim, As someone whose project car has dual turbo manifold EGT TCs, I'd love to know what you think are the magic max temp to look for as at max power?

 

well, I got a map of the internet before, I used steve kans wideband to see what the afr's where like and the map wasso lean, it had of been done on purpose but I caught it before it destroyed my motor.
Steve gave me a map and told me to turn the fuel press to 40-45 psi)cant remember. I didnt becuase I didnt have a fuel press guage, I didnt zero the timing either(To be honest I dont know how )
I just need to know what to do to get the idle back right.
Im pretty sure its the map,becuase the engien didnt do this until I loaded the map. What should I do?

 

carlos,

I would shoot for 1300 at wot, but I regularly ran mine as high as 1600. I was also using 110 octane race fuel. try to keep the temps below 1500.

93red

maybe go back to your initial map and start the tuning from there. but if you don't know how to zero the timing you will need someone to hlep in the tuning. this should be done before any load is applied to the engine to prevent catastrophic damage. be careful.

 

so can anybody tell me how to zero the timing?

 

go to setup menu lock the timing at a value(I use 0*) check with timing light to see if the engine is set at 0*. if not adjust CAS(or value in setup menu) to obtain 0* then unlock timing in setup menu. this is also shown in detail in the Haltech manual.