Need help which program i'm going to need to use my E6K and what adaptors. i do have a Newer laptop, but can probably get ahold of an older one if need be.

Thanks guys for you support!

 

Bump I also just got my e6k and e6x harness .

 

google dosbox and e6k. it should run fine on any pc (i'm currently using windows 8.1). you'll need a serial to usb adapter from ebay.

 

Yes, this works. i've finally got everything squared away (bought a house) and can finally get back to work on the FC. so! couple things.

1: trying to get things squared away for startup. having a hard time because the map that is on the Haltech is for a Turbo, mines a N/A Bridge.

2: battery keeps dropping below 8V while cranking (gotta buy another battery or at least a charger)

3: still learning Haltechs programming.

so. if anyone can help, heres what i need!

1: if anyone has a Map for a Stock S5 N/A (stock or Street Ported) this would get me closer to a good starter point.

2: if anyone knows of a good "how to" read for the Haltech programmer. i would LOVE to get ahold of that for a good read! lol

Thanks guys. looking forward to driving my FC soon!

 

Alright, i'm trying to get my FC started. she sputters, and kicks. but not giving me much else.

Engine Specs: S5 N/A 6 Port engine, Locked 6 ports, locked VDI Chamber, BridgePorted, 550cc Injectors (primary and secondary), Straight Piped exhaust from Manifold back, Haltech E6k, Stock CAS sensor, Stock Ignition Coils

i have set my base timing (restabbed CAS and aligned with pulley), locked timing at -5 degrees (Leading) started with a TII Stock Basemap to try and get some kind of bearing (cannot find a S5 N/A Base map anywhere) New Bur9eq Plugs

Car does Kick over, so i know its getting spark (how reliably? not sure...) Fuel... no clue its a pain to pull off the manifolds to access the lower rail.

so my questions:

1: Can i use a WIdeband in place of the factory o2 Sensor? would rather not add another Bung for a seperate o2 sensor

2: Fuel pump is on a Seperate Switch (Switch panel) does this cause concerns with the Haltech?? (don't see how it should)

3: During Cranking ONLY i noticed my TPS sensor shows 0% fault, once you touch the pedal, fault goes away, and it reads a progressive % rate. with the Key on, no Cranking, it never shows "Fault" something wrong? or voltage dropping too much? (9.6v at worst points)

4: does anyone have a decent "starting" values at which i have a better understanding for how i need to have everything set?? bought the Haltech used, so who knows if the trigger values are set wrong, or injector staging is wrong.

5: Should i Lock my timing at first start up?? or only for checking timing with the gun??

Ask any questions you need information for and i will do my best to accommodate. i really would love to start and get my FC at least idling....

Thank you guys i really appreciate the help.

 

1,, yes,, most widebands have a simulated 1 v output,, for hooking to ecus that require the feedback
the haltech can also be configured to take the much more accurate 5V signal

at any rate,, not many will choose the closed loop mode as it is a bit primitive in this ecu

it can however be logged,, and will be invaluable in tuning

2.. no .. but the original wiring and ecu is designed to cut the fuel pump off after a time out period with no timing input ( for safety )
usually, most 1st timers fail to grasp that one of the orange wire circuits is also for fuel pump as the diagram is quite vague

3: calibrate the TPS,, and it should see a zero when throttle is shut , and run to 100 % when you open throttle

the mazda one ( s4 ) will read 100 % at only 20 % throttle ,, while on s5 the full range should be hooked to the haltech

you really want a full range TPS on there to get proper use of the higher up ' throttle pump" settings

4 base maps from haltech will start you up

HOWEVER it is absolutely critical you understand what the trigger tooth and trigger angles are for

they are unique to each engine and each cas stab position ,, you cannot use someone else numbers and not expect it to hurt your engine

timing calibration is THE essential process you need to grasp

too much for one post ,, but it is very well documented in various haltech manuals
the e6k manual is one of the better ones too

5.. absolutely,, see post 4


be aware that e6K and earlier models can have some quirks as to the timing setup
( for example the e6s will only accept certain windows )
and essentially each tooth number represents 30 degrees
and the trigger angle is for the smaller degrees in between each tooth selection
your haltech will want you to have a trigger angle number between 45 and 90


and this will provide a "window" to which the ecu can advance the timing
having a number under 30 will simply make the window cut short
and the ecu will be unable to move the timing outside that window



EG
10 tooth 90 degrees is the same as 11 tooth 60 degrees , or 12 tooth 30 degrees
some models will not like 12 tooth ..and any rate 30 degrees is too small a window for our timing advance
but the other two represent the same position of the engine and of those 11 tooth 60 represents a more accurate window than 10 tooth 90

again see the e6k manual .. it explains it better there
.. also motech uses the same method,, though calls trigger tooth CRIT
( crank indicating tooth ) and angle as CRIP ( crank indicating position )

and so their explanation may help you grasp the concept