Haltech need some help! FD gauge cluster /e8 install
tach to work E11V2
I'm still in the same boat. I tried hooking up the yellow connector with the blue/yellow wire to the PWM 1. I tried 5,8,12 volts and nothing. There has to be something not grounded or wired correctly. I don't have anything hooked up to the blue and the white connectors hidden in the driverside wiring. Anybody now what the pins on the white connector correspond to? I sort of took it apart to clean it up. I thought that there would be a wiring diagram outlining the connector. can't find in the manual.
Aldo
Aldo
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
the answer to that question is in that e6k FD HOWTO link posted on the first page.
the problem with that is they use the stock ignitor/coils so the tach signal isnt changed at all.
i still have no tach
the problem with that is they use the stock ignitor/coils so the tach signal isnt changed at all.
i still have no tach
Ignitors, coils etc have nothing to do with the FD tach.
The FD computer reads the crank position on the cas on the front of the pulley and uses it to generate an variable freq signal that it sends to the tach.
Has nothing to do with coils etc.
Using an MSD tach adapter is a hack to get the tach working (and a viable one that saves a haltech output for something better).
But in reality if you can't get it working with the haltech, then there is either a fault in the haltech (such as the default map issue) or something is wired wrong or broken.
I would try first watching the the aux outs data page to see what PWM 1 is doing with the car running, datalog the output for freq and duty cycle. Duty cycle should stay constant and freq should rise and fall with RPM.
If you have an extra tach you could then hook it up to the PWM to fully rule out the haltech. Even if its for a 4/6/8 cyl engine it doesn't matter.
The FD computer reads the crank position on the cas on the front of the pulley and uses it to generate an variable freq signal that it sends to the tach.
Has nothing to do with coils etc.
Using an MSD tach adapter is a hack to get the tach working (and a viable one that saves a haltech output for something better).
But in reality if you can't get it working with the haltech, then there is either a fault in the haltech (such as the default map issue) or something is wired wrong or broken.
I would try first watching the the aux outs data page to see what PWM 1 is doing with the car running, datalog the output for freq and duty cycle. Duty cycle should stay constant and freq should rise and fall with RPM.
If you have an extra tach you could then hook it up to the PWM to fully rule out the haltech. Even if its for a 4/6/8 cyl engine it doesn't matter.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
thank you colin. after checking out the wiring diagram more i will go back to the wire at the yellow ECU plug.
i spent a little too much time thinking after this post on the previous page:
i spent a little too much time thinking after this post on the previous page:
https://www.rx7club.com/haltech-forum-62/i-need-help-wiring-stock-tach-551831/
here's the solution for the tach issue...for me at least...
hope it helps.
here's the solution for the tach issue...for me at least...
hope it helps.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
ok gohan that's great. thanks for that. it seems we have the same setup (ls1 coils) so that's perfect.
i am slightly confused by this part though.
edit: nevermind, i guess he just meant that those two things need to be connected to the light green wire.
ya.
my oil pressure would jump all the way up when the key was being turned.
Both oil press and fuel level are independant of the old wiring harness and was solved with grounding the wire for guage cluster.
You need to connect the Light Green (1H) wire to the Yellow Blue wire (2B) for the tach. You should have 2 wires from the light green. One for the haltech and one for the Yellow blue wire (tach).
my oil pressure would jump all the way up when the key was being turned.
Both oil press and fuel level are independant of the old wiring harness and was solved with grounding the wire for guage cluster.
You need to connect the Light Green (1H) wire to the Yellow Blue wire (2B) for the tach. You should have 2 wires from the light green. One for the haltech and one for the Yellow blue wire (tach).
edit: nevermind, i guess he just meant that those two things need to be connected to the light green wire.
Last edited by jacobcartmill; Mar 25, 2008 at 11:38 AM.
tach to work E11V2 It half works
I figured out the problem. The instrument cluster keeps going on or off I don't know why. When the pressure, speedometer, start working then the tach works. something is not grounded. Do you guys know what needs to be grounded?
Aldo
Aldo
Grounding out the White connector to get the Tach working
I'm trying to get the tach working but it only works sometimes. I'm guessing is a grounding issue. I just don't know what to ground. I can't find and black solid wires like you guys said. Can you guys be more specific?
Thanks
Aldo
Thanks
Aldo
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