sao1

Thanks for the website C.Ludwig, I swear i have looked over it like 5 times since Monday.

Im still not 100% sure if im suppose to splice into the stock harness, but i will try it and see what happens.

Im sorry if i seem to have tunnel vision with this matter, Im a virgin to this.

Thanks again

RETed

Okay, this is probably why it doesn't work.
All connections should be made to the ignitor.
The leads should stay the same from the ignitor (base) to the coil terminals.

Basically, the ignitor amplifies / cleans-up the signal from the ECU / EMS.
The bigger signal is then shot into the coil.

Good luck!


-Ted

sao1

I will need it.

Thanks Ted.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Yeah I'm sorry I kinda worded things incorrectly for you. The 12V+ connection is not made at the coil like Ted has pointed out. Make the connection at the white connector at the coil. There is actually 12V+ supplied to the coil through the stock wiring and you shouldn't even have to cut that wire in the first place. On the leading coil there are only two pins. One for trigger and one for 12V+. The 12V+ wire that comes into the connector from the body harness is black with a yellow tracer. It gets power directly from the main relay. If you cut that just patch it back together. On the trailing side there are two black/yellow wires that supply positive voltage to the coils. Again, if you've cut them reconnect them as they were stock. Once that is done make the connections just like Hitman says and you should be golden.

sao1

Thanks C. Ludwig. I will try it in about an hour, on my lunch.

sao1

WOHOOO! I got spark! (thanks Ted and C.Ludwig ) But of course the car doesn't start.

Now i have to some how load the 13BT base map on to the E6K. Again im a virgin with this. I have been trying to load a map since monday, and i have no luck. So far this is how i have been trying with loading the map:

Computer is turn on. On desktop i have the 13BTbase map and Haltech as a .ZIP file
I click on my Haltech version 6.xx ICON.
Takes me to Winzip and get on( free trial9.0 ).
I double click the Haltech software to open it.
Then come up Winzip caution: secruity reason...YES
Finally Haltech pops up.
Under the File Tab.
LOAD MAPS
ENTER
There is nothing in FILE: "no files found"

From here I dont' have any idea to get the file from my desktop to Haltech.

Can someone walk me through this?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Drag and drop the unzipped map file into the same directory you have the Haltech software in.

sao1

^ tried it, but it didn't allow me.

When i drag the unzip file from Winzip to the Haltech, when i go to the Haltech icon with the unzip file, it had a cross on it, BUT it did open up the Haltech. I will try again though.

RETed

E6K, right?
I won't even touch HalWinX for it...

I'd rather use the DOS 6.34 proggie.


-Ted

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Agreed. The DOS version is still my favorite.

What you need to do is this...

Unzip the map file to the desktop
Right click START in the lower left corner
Click EXPLORE
Find the folder labeled Haltech
Drag the unzipped map from the desktop into the Haltech folder
Load map

sao1

^ i will try C.Ludwig.

I have an old school E6K. What is the HalwinX?

RETed

Oh!
Sorry about the confusion!
You were just trying to unzip the file!

Yeah, don't open it from within WinZip - that can cause all kinds of headaches.

You need to unzip the file, and then open it manually.
As C. Ludwig already mentions ^^^


-Ted

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

I thought you weren't able to go online with the DOS software running through anything newer than a Windows 98 OS. I run Microsft Virtual PC (BTW VPC is now shareware) with 98 and the DOS program off my XP machine. Seems like you've said you've been online with the software but thought I'd mention this anyway.

sao1

Hey Ted,

Can you elaborate on how to unzip a file with out winzip, and opening it manually?

sao1

On my lunch, i got to work on my car for minute. ^After i did your method, I was able to LOAD the 13BT OEM map. Thank you.

BUT When i tried to start the car, it won't start.

I am getting spark from the coils, i can hear the fuel pump going, but i can't get the car to start.

I went into IGNITION SETTING and changed the TOOTH OFFSETTING from 11 to 3 and it still didn't start.

When i get off, i will be checking on if im getting fuel through the lines, check the spark plugs are getting spark to them, and recheck my CAS.

Anything else I can check to see why the car is not starting. I can crank the car, BUT I WON'T START.

Im assuming it has to something

sao1

Check the CAS and recheck the wiring...I got spark, but the car won't start. I have check out the fuel system, but i can sure smell the Fuel, and the motor being follow.

Right now, I just using the BASE 13BT map even though i have a GT42, dual Walbro, 720s primaries and 1600s secondaries with stock COILs and a 3BAR MAP sensor.

Any idea's?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Too much fuel. If you're using a map setup for stock 550 primaries you're putting in ~50% more fuel with those 720s. Check the plugs. If they're wet you have too much fuel and it's flooded.

Before you go too far have someone crank the engine while you verify timing. Lock the timing and shoot it with a light. This will ensure that your settings are correct. Once the timing is zeroed, or close anyway, you can work on fuel. If the timing is right, you have spark, you have compression, and you have fuel it will start.

sao1

Thanks CLudwig

Am i checking for lead and trail timing? Would i ever have the TIMING LOCK OFF and when would you have it off? I will give it a go.

BTW, would you know how to change the map's graphical map to numerical mode? YOu know like excel spreadsheet.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Do you have an instruction manual?

To zero the timing you need to go into the ignition setup page and select lock timing. Set the lock timing value at -5. That is negative 5* or 5*ATDC. This corresponds to the red mark on your pulley. There are two marks. One is red the other is yellow they are about 1/4" apart on the pulley. If the color is worn off the red mark will be the one to the right when facing the front of the engine. Once you have locked the timing in the software that is where the ignition will fire regardless of revs or load. Using a timing light attached to L1 shoot the pulley while someone cranks the engine to see if the ignition is firing correctly. If the timing is way off either move the CAS until it's close and you can make changes to the numbers entered in the ignition setup page. Trigger angle is a failry fine adjustment while tooth offset is a course adjustment. The E6K values are well documented though and they rarely stray very far at all from the standard so you should NOT have to make adjustments to the programming. Only at the CAS. If you have to program radical numbers to get it close you probably made an error in stabbing the CAS.

Once you have the timing close while cranking it turn the timing lock off and attempt to start the car. The timing will be close at that point, you have fuel?, you have spark?, and if you have compression it should fire. If and when it starts go back and relock the timing while the car is idling. Check the timing again with the light. This time you need it more than close. Get it lined up just right. Once it's lined up rev the engine slightly. Say 3000rpm. Make sure the timing doesn't waver when you rev the engine. If it does you have issues that need to be addressed. Once it is properly zeroed you unlock the timing and leave it. Timing lock is a diagnostic/setup funtion only and should only be used as such. Never during actual operation.

To enter numeric mode (spreadsheet) simply press alt-N. Personally I like the graphic mode better but everyone has their preferences.

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Can a mod sticky this? There's probably some good info here for anyone setting up a system.

sao1

Thank you for the write up and explanation CLudwig.

sao1

My thin wall spark plug came in this weekend and i was able to check my spark plug for fouling and possibly check the compression. Also i was able to get a timing light to the damn thing, and was able to ZERO in the timing.

From the look of it, my spark plugs are contaminated with fuel and oil, ALOT of fuel and oil. I got worried that my spark plugs had so much oil on it that i was going to do the compression test to confirm the condition of the motor. And as a result, I got 0 psi on the FRONT ROTOR and 94psi on the REAR ROTOR. After testing the rear rotors, i reconfirmed that the front rotor wasn't able to hold any compression.

So my question is...

Do i have a bad front rotor? Or do i have stuck apex seals? To build compression, what is recommend to use more ATF or Mystry Oil? Or either?

If BAD MOTOR, which i think it is, What PORTING of the motor is recommend to propel the GT42? Large Street Port or Half Bridge Port?

BTW, thanks CLudwig and Ted for your help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

RETed

Oh crap, sorry to hear the bad news.

You can try and add some motor oil / ATF into the chambers to see if that will bring the compression up.
But don't hold your breath.
If it's truly "0", then it's most likely need a rebuild.


-Ted

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

It's an extremely unlikely possibility that all the cranking with fuel and no spark washed the rotor housing surfaces down and that's creating low compression. Like Ted said try some oil. But it probably won't work.

sao1

I will give it ago... Thanks again guys.