I am to the point now that I am ready to plug in my ps1k. I want to check the wiring before plugging in the ECU. Can some tell me which pins should have power all the time, which ones should only have power when key is on, and which ones shouldnt have power. I greatly appreciate all the supportr from this forum so far.

 

Haltech has a print out of the wire diagrams, I believe unless you activate the line in the haltech it wont have power until you do.

 

damn damn damn, i tested the plugs on thhe harness that go into ecu and guess what no power. I have power at the fuse box in the haltech harness but nothing at each of the pins. Also my switched 12v (pink wire I think) has no power. Any suggestions. Ive been trying to track down the cause but seem to be going in circles

 

Ill list everything I learn, I got my ECU hooked up 1st try, asuming that it's 100% correct lol is a new story.

I tested everything on my e6k with just the battery hooked up and I got pretty well power thoughout every single connection asuming that it needs to go though your ECU we can asume thats getting something their. (With the ignition on) I did get differnt readings but not on the crank as I asume their not testable in your situation which I was in.

You could double check grounds? from my knowledge I only had two running off my harness
one for the ECU/Fuses and one for the coil packs that I had to mount to chassis also fuel pump. but that's kinda optional could just leave it alone grounds into stock fuse panel.
(I believe the ECU needs to be grounded while the harness is plugged into it, that may be a issue if im reading it in the correct CONTEXT.

Silly question did you check fuses? and or proper gauge of wire, I heard that was a issue for some on guides.

(mine barley idles so might not be 100% your go too)

 

Ill run new grounds today. I uswed ones from the factory harness for the ecu. They worked fine for oem prior to this install. but to be certain ill runn new onnes. What I cant figure out is why I have power in tthe fuse box on both sides of the fuses butt notthing at the plug. I test every pin and the only thing I get is the a/c fan turns onn when i test it. so theres power making it therre. but all thhe pins that shoud have power either constant or with key on theres nothing. I had wonndered if i had tto have the ecu plugged in inn order for it to show power but i wouldnt tthhink that woould matter.

 

You not getting power at the ECU because the 12v switched input (pink) is not properly connected. You already know that. That is the trigger for all but the fuel pump relay. No switched power, no ECU power.

Is the AC fan run through the Haltech? If so, you have the relay wired incorrectly.

 

Ok so I went back and checked the switched pink wire. I test another wire and found another switched 12v source. After hooking the pink wire to it the voltage drops to 5v. Is that normal? Also the wire I had it originally hooked to has 12v again.

also as i had a meter on it It shows 4.5v hooked up. as soon as i cut the wire the metter jumps back to 12v. im confused a bit haha

 

Doesn't make sense that when the pink wire is not connected I get 12v but as soon as I connect it I only get 4v. When I remove the ecu relay volts go to 6 and when I remove the inj and ecu relay it goes to 9. What's causing that. My grounds seem to be good. Any ideas? Thanks

 

For fun, run a wire between the pink 12v switched input and the battery positive terminal. See if the ECU comes on, the fuel pump primes, and do a sensor check. Just to make sure you don't have something hokey going on. If all is good, on the S4, the surefire place to get a good switched 12v signal is at the main relay on the driver fender under the trailing coil. Either of the black/white wires will do.

 

Will that work if I have not loaded a map yet. This is the first time I've attempted to plug the ecu in. I was doing a check of my wiring so that I do not accidentally mess up ecu. Also I hear the fuel pump relay click when I turn key to on position

 

You will be fine.

 

I did that and ecu does not turn on. I'm assuming one of the led should come on? The relays get warm in the fuse box. Not hot just warm.

 

Ok so what I for some reason forgot to check to see if I blew a fuse. Well I did. I am out of 10a fuses so I put a 7.5a in to see if the ecu would come on. It blows the 7.5a fuse. I had a 15a fuse so I tried it. It was fine. Only thing is if I hook the pink wire to the switched source the ecu lights come one for half a second then go out. Same with fuel pump. If I hook the pink wire straight to battery everything is fine. Pump primes, both led on ecu light up blue. And relays click. So my problem is still why do I have 12v on the switched wire till I attach the haltech pink wire. I'm not sure if its blowing the 10a fuses consistently since I don't have another one to test it out. But 15a holds up but 7.5a or lower does not. Any ideas? Thanks

 

Try the pink wire to the Thick Black w/white stripe on the Ignition switch.That is 12volts switched.
I got my PS1K on that and it works just fine.

 

Did that and whata ya know it worked. That was with a 15amp fuse. I'll pick up some 10's in the morning.

Another question, what's a good way to tap into that wire? I alway avoided using that wire cause its a pain in the *** to use.

 

Three way terminals and alot of tape... Unless you can soder, I twisted for testing and that sure as *&@t didn't work well.
I'm lucky in the fact I can get proper heat shrink ones for free, I don't want to think how much they cost, I went though alot.

... Make sure you splice into it at the right point... I ended wasting lots of time, when I couldn't shove mine where i wanted.
Big O'l Rats nest, even though i havn't got mine running properly so - quote myself that's bad...

 

I prefer to solder but that wire is in a tough spot. I'll probably end up 3way splicing it. Some of my harness is a little rats nesty but once I get it running ill tuck everything away.

 

Hopefully I won't run into anymore issues. I'm ready to finally enjoy the car for a while

 

Ok I tapped into the black/white wire on the ignition switch. 12v with key on 0 with key off. But while cranking the laptop says connection lost. Do I have a bad power source. Also my rpm on lap top is not moving but I suspect once I get the power source figured out that will fix itself

 

Power on tha wire is dropping to zero when you move the key from on to start. That's causing the ECU to shut down as soon as you try to start it. Tap into the wire I told you to use and all will be good.

 

will do. thanks for all the help

 

ok i got good power now even while cranking. but i dont have rpm on the laptop. i looked at the setup tips on here to make sure that i had my settings correct and from what i can tell ,i do . so which wire to i neeed to check to make sure it is hooked up properly and what setting to check on the latop. thanks again

 

You're not getting a trigger signal from the CAS. From memory, the CAS is wired like this:

Home - I Trigger -
Home + I Trigger +

Open a window and watch trigger count, home count, and trigger since last home. Home and trigger count should always increment up. Trigger since last home should always be 12.

 

using the help function in the haltech software i created a sensor check page. i made a trigger count window and it reads trigger count 1 trigger since last home -1, home counter 0,miss counter 0. not sure what you mean on the wiring you described. sorry

 

ok i double checked my wiring to the CAS. heres how I have it wires. I think its correct.

Home Trigger: (all wire colors are from cas not cars harness side)
green -->white/black
yellow---Green

Main trigger:
green--->white
yellow---.Red

correct?