Haltech Are my ignition base settings normal?
#1
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Are my ignition base settings normal?
Hello everyone. I have a sport 2000 running a 20B turbo, stock ports with 550/1600 injectors. The engine started almost immediately and ran well with the stock computer.
I would like to improve the tune for drievability and my nearest tuner is seven hours away. Just wanted to know if my base ignition map is normal in the under 1000 rpm area.
The car drives fairly well but I think a lot of the fine tuning has been skipped. It seems to have very little touque down low. When taking off from a stand still it seems to need a lot of revs or it will stall. And it is hard to start when cold, taking four attempts. Also when the revs are falling back toward idle as im coming to a stop sometimes it will stall. The last problem I have almost fixed using the BAC settings. I realise that I need to still work on the bac, prime map and transient settings but thought it would be good to check the base setting first. I have read that timing changes can help with starting as well as help with picking up the revs as they fall. Any suggestions would be great.
I would like to improve the tune for drievability and my nearest tuner is seven hours away. Just wanted to know if my base ignition map is normal in the under 1000 rpm area.
The car drives fairly well but I think a lot of the fine tuning has been skipped. It seems to have very little touque down low. When taking off from a stand still it seems to need a lot of revs or it will stall. And it is hard to start when cold, taking four attempts. Also when the revs are falling back toward idle as im coming to a stop sometimes it will stall. The last problem I have almost fixed using the BAC settings. I realise that I need to still work on the bac, prime map and transient settings but thought it would be good to check the base setting first. I have read that timing changes can help with starting as well as help with picking up the revs as they fall. Any suggestions would be great.
#3
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (8)
Wont cause high egt's at idle. THat timing map looks fine. Unfortuantely thats the only way to do it to get a smoothish idle with a haltech as there is no idle map as such.(i could be wrong if i am please correct me).
I would advance the timing some what in the 0-1000rpm range from 5HG to 0HG and put in at least 10 degrees .
I would advance the timing some what in the 0-1000rpm range from 5HG to 0HG and put in at least 10 degrees .
#4
Rotor Head Extreme
iTrader: (8)
Timing map above 1,000 looks fine to me also. I basically copied the Rx8 stock timing map since I'm NA. Mine is similar to yours and I have plenty of power down low. Hell I can break my rear stock tires loose on a 5mph roll just by rolling on the throttle. I run negative split at idle with around 15degrees advance. Did you zero your timing correctly? When I took my 1st test drive late last year I had NO power at all. It turned out that I misread the Hitman's zeroing timing info with my Fd's trigger set-up. I accidentally used Leading 1 to zero my timing when I was supposed to use Trailing 1. That mistake made me 15 degrees retarded since my split was locked at 15 degrees. For the longest time I couldn't figure out why my trigger offsets where nowhere near what was being posted on the forum. Since my timing was locked at 20 degrees advance, I was really at only 5 degrees. When I re-zeroed the timing correctly, OMG the engine woke up just like that.
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Thanks for the reply's. The car was set up by a tuner that specialises in haltech and rotary's so not sure about how the timing was zeroed. My trigger and home setting look simillar to other maps so im guessing that it was done correctly. Going to try changing my timing settings in the 1500 and under zone this weekend.
Also at the moment the car is set to 15 degrees split for all rpm until -4 vac where it decreases as boost goes up. I was thinking of changing the Split to see if that helps. I dont know much about the effects of changing the split and what is safe. Is there a risk of detonation dropping the split to around 10 in some of the vac area's? Dont want to do anything that could damage the engine.
Also at the moment the car is set to 15 degrees split for all rpm until -4 vac where it decreases as boost goes up. I was thinking of changing the Split to see if that helps. I dont know much about the effects of changing the split and what is safe. Is there a risk of detonation dropping the split to around 10 in some of the vac area's? Dont want to do anything that could damage the engine.
#6
Rotor Head Extreme
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10 degrees split in vacuum is very safe still. I have 9.7 compression rotors on my NA set-up and run zero split under full load. A/F ratios in the mid 12's and 30 degress timming till red line. I figured if the Rx8 timming is safe for 10.0 compression rotors, then I should be good with my 9.7. Rx8 runs 15 split under full load. I run zero. Also all my split is negative split in the high vacuum ranges and tapers down to zero in the higher load ranges. It revs nice and fast and helps save some fuel. You can safely treat your vacuum ranges like this till you start getting into boost. I still have stock ports with 20b exhaust diffusers removed. You can actually get away with a lot under vacuum than under boost. I'm still tweaking my set-up though.
Here's one of my reving videos to give you an idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ND6xJkwFAFk
Here's one of my reving videos to give you an idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ND6xJkwFAFk
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