Wankel7

I was able to get my car started using that map but it ran like hell....

I did not have time to trouble shoot so I will save the running like hell questions until I trouble shoot it.

I figure the 720CC are 30% bigger than the 550CC.

So, would it be safe to use the highlight all the bars function and reduce the fuel bars by 30% across the board on all rpm ranges to make his base map work better for my application? Or would I just do say 30% up to the staging point and then a 15% reduction after the staging point?

I am trying to think how the larger injectors than the base map provides for changes things. Since, after the staging point is passed all the injectors fire at the same duty cycle.

This is on my E6K S5 with a 3 Bar.

This is how Hitman described the map
Mazda 13B Series 4/5, 3-Bar MAP, 1600cc secondary, T04 turbo
http://www.hitman.hm/S416003b.zip

James

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

First of all, any difference in injector size will net map recalibration, no matter how small. Second, you might get a somewhat moderate impovemnt by reducing the bar hight yes, but its not like it will run perfectly when you do it. Always use a WideBand.

The difference in injector size vs. bar hight is simple, if you have the same mS value with 2 different size injectors then the bigger ones will put more fuel in, BUT, its not proportional, so you cant go: "a 300cc injector at 3mS flows the same as a 390cc at 2.1mS". Doesnt work that way, its close, but not dead on. (using your 30% example)

Wankel7

Yeah, I have a techedge. I didn't have the sensor in for the first start....didn't want all that crap coming out of the engine to get in the sensor.

I see what you are saying on the MS timing of the injectors and how a flat 30 percent reduction won't work.

Thanks!

Personally, what would you do?

I am guessing you will say....just tune the thing

I am trying to get a decent base map to start with....

Then go from there.

Thanks!

James

Claudio RX-7

iTrader: (1)

Oh, no, dont get me wrong, by all means try the 30% decrease, its the fastest way to take fuel out, im pretty sure you'll get it running better when that is done. I usually have a trim **** with me all the time so i can take out or put in fuel faster and go by ear initially, you can really hear the engine run smoother or crappier as the fuel gets better or worst.



And yes, i also dont hook up the wideband untill i have a driveable base map, then i tune.

YearsOfDecay

I just re-mapped my car for 750's last night.. i can shoot you the maps if you want.. it whould get you real close man..

I did it by first going alt-n and changing all the numbers in bars 1-11 by multiplyinh by .733.. well, that was a bit lean.. after I switched back to the graph mode and selected bars 1-11 and then did two page ups on each RPM range.. its damn near perfect. Still need to adjust the high RPM but for gtenereal cruising its right on...

Haven't messed with the boost settings (bar 12+) yet but, I aslo installed 1000's, so I'm going to go through tonight and re-cal those, but this time, I think i'm going to add an extra 5-10%... don't wanna be lean on boost. so 550's/1600's = 4310.. 750+1000 +3500 4300/3500 = 1.229. +5% fudge factor = 1.3X the value !!!

But, the map i have in now is stiull tuned for 550's 1600's on boost so, it should be safe for you to use, even under boost, albeit a bit rich woth the 720's in your car!

RETed

Don't go with a straight reduction.
Factor in different on / off characteristics from the fuel injector, and I'd try -20% first...then -25%.
Most likely you'll need to tweak the low RPM's (up to 2kRPM), especially around idle, but everything else should be okay.


-Ted

Wankel7

Thanks for the advice guys!

Decay, if you could email me that map that would be great!

wankelrotary2002@yahoo.com

Thanks!

James