Haltech The Ins & Outs of a Haltech Installation
07-26-08, 01:40 PM
#26
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What your describing sounds very odd, it seems to me like you either have a corrupted installation of the Halwin Software, or your download was not complete. Can you tell me if your ECU has B29 or B32 firmware in it? Go online and hit the Options/Firmware Version Info and tell me what the little window that pops up says.
Which version of software are you using?
Try uninstalling the software again, but next time, when you go to install it again, have the "Install" folder located in the root directory "C:\". Just endulge me for a min and try that.
Also, the ZIP file that you download from the haltech website for v1.71 should have about 10.7megs after you download it, make sure thats what you got, otherwise the download it self may be the culprit.
Worst case scenario, you should give the US office a call before jumping the gun on a "poor customer service" accusation.
Which version of software are you using?
Try uninstalling the software again, but next time, when you go to install it again, have the "Install" folder located in the root directory "C:\". Just endulge me for a min and try that.
Also, the ZIP file that you download from the haltech website for v1.71 should have about 10.7megs after you download it, make sure thats what you got, otherwise the download it self may be the culprit.
Worst case scenario, you should give the US office a call before jumping the gun on a "poor customer service" accusation.
07-29-08, 05:14 PM
#27
I'm downloading the halwin software ATM to my laptop. I've deleted (uninstalled actually...) the old version and saved the new one directly onto C: drive. I'll install once its done and see what happens. Also, checked to make sure my comp is running in English US mode (was once told by you it may be the cause of non-metric units not being available)
Right now something's not adding up. Its version 1.26 on the Haltech site, and the download is only 3.99megs. Says right beside it on the site in brackets - 4mb not the 10.7 I should have.
The folder HalwinX_1_26 is 4,095kb when completed.
I've extracted the install folder directly to C: drive as well, and launched setup from there - except it won't launch. I get an error telling me I don't have permission to access this item.
So I've tried removing the current, un-installed version and I'm still not allowed to access setup, and as such, can't delete it to try again.
Lovely....I dunno what to do now, I can't even check the firmware because I don't have Halwin anymore
Right now something's not adding up. Its version 1.26 on the Haltech site, and the download is only 3.99megs. Says right beside it on the site in brackets - 4mb not the 10.7 I should have.
The folder HalwinX_1_26 is 4,095kb when completed.
I've extracted the install folder directly to C: drive as well, and launched setup from there - except it won't launch. I get an error telling me I don't have permission to access this item.
So I've tried removing the current, un-installed version and I'm still not allowed to access setup, and as such, can't delete it to try again.
Lovely....I dunno what to do now, I can't even check the firmware because I don't have Halwin anymore
07-30-08, 11:02 AM
#28
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Hmmm... funny... sounds like your PC may be experiencing some gremlin symptoms. 
I have issues with my own lappy and the cure is to do a full on update of the machine though windows update. But be careful, SP3 is out and i dont know how reliable it is yet.
I would just try to update SP2 as much as you can. See if that helps.
I have issues with my own lappy and the cure is to do a full on update of the machine though windows update. But be careful, SP3 is out and i dont know how reliable it is yet.
I would just try to update SP2 as much as you can. See if that helps.
07-30-08, 12:38 PM
#29
I managed to get it installed...
But I just had to let it save the folder to program files (where it chooses to go) then extracted it to C:
Same as before
But I'll connect to the car later on and find out what firmware is on it.
Its quite possible my laptop has issues.
But I just had to let it save the folder to program files (where it chooses to go) then extracted it to C:
Same as before
But I'll connect to the car later on and find out what firmware is on it.Its quite possible my laptop has issues.
08-27-08, 05:25 PM
#30
6. Once you've properly connected the ignition outputs to your ignition components you can crank again and see if you have spark, if you dont, we'll need to revise the trigger settings again, if you do, you can put your timing light on the Leading coil (or Trailing 1 for FD's) and point it at the crank pulley with your settings as follows: Trigger angle +/- 65, tooth offset 11 (5 for FD's), constant charge, falling edge, coil charge time 3.5mS (to start).
7. Now, we can go ahead and start cranking again in order to "zero" the timing. As most of you know, zero'ing the timing means to make sure that the Haltech is putting the correct timing on the motor. The way to do this is by going to the Ignition setup, locking the main timing to -5 (with 15 on the split for E8/E11) and pointing the timing light to the crank pulley and raising or lowering the trigger angle until you get the marks to line up. For trailing timing verification use T1 and the mark should align as well. If you see the mark 180 degrees off, your trailing spark plug wires are backwards or your trailing ignition outputs are reversed.
7. Now, we can go ahead and start cranking again in order to "zero" the timing. As most of you know, zero'ing the timing means to make sure that the Haltech is putting the correct timing on the motor. The way to do this is by going to the Ignition setup, locking the main timing to -5 (with 15 on the split for E8/E11) and pointing the timing light to the crank pulley and raising or lowering the trigger angle until you get the marks to line up. For trailing timing verification use T1 and the mark should align as well. If you see the mark 180 degrees off, your trailing spark plug wires are backwards or your trailing ignition outputs are reversed.
Something odd is happening with my FD with an E8 and directfire. I can't get my car to run unless I'm at an offset of 11 and around a 50 angle. Lining it up sing lock on -5 and 15 measuring with the T1 wire it ended up lining up at an angle of 38. This is a stock pulley so I'm confused at the above instructions? Any help?
Another side issue is that I'm not gettng a wideband display on my software or the Racepak display. The wideband is output on the O2 sensor wire and it is working. Also the sensor has been calibrated in the tables. Any thoughts? BTW this is 1.89
Thanks
08-27-08, 05:42 PM
#31
Try an offset of 10 and an angle between 60 and 65. Think of tooth offset as a raw adjustment and trigger angle as a fine adjustment. Ont he FD trigger wheel there are 12 teeth so a change of one number in tooth offset should produce about a 30* change in timing. Ideally you'll want the trigger angle to end up between 65-75*. At the 38* you have now you will be limited in the amount of advance you'll be able to run to around 20* total.
Shouldn't a dealer know this?
Try swapping your wideband analog input to one of the spare a/d inputs.
Shouldn't a dealer know this?
Try swapping your wideband analog input to one of the spare a/d inputs.
08-27-08, 06:13 PM
#32
Should but I've been having a heck of a time with this.... As all my assumptions seem to be wrong. I just don't understand how it can be so off when compared to other vehicles, when I'm still using the stock pulley and marks.
I really don't want use a spare A/D as I would like to be able to use the O2 feedback. Funny thing is I actually had the display and software working until I reloaded 1.89.
I really don't want use a spare A/D as I would like to be able to use the O2 feedback. Funny thing is I actually had the display and software working until I reloaded 1.89.
08-28-08, 01:58 PM
#33
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Should but I've been having a heck of a time with this.... As all my assumptions seem to be wrong. I just don't understand how it can be so off when compared to other vehicles, when I'm still using the stock pulley and marks.
I really don't want use a spare A/D as I would like to be able to use the O2 feedback. Funny thing is I actually had the display and software working until I reloaded 1.89.
I really don't want use a spare A/D as I would like to be able to use the O2 feedback. Funny thing is I actually had the display and software working until I reloaded 1.89.
This is the info i have on those, can anybody verify it?
Also, on the wideband, have you calibrated the haltech or the controller with the same scaling, the LC1 comes preloaded with the 7.xx AFR = 0v and 22.xx AFR = 5v. The Haltech comes default with the 10 AFR = 0v through 20 AFR = 5v.
08-28-08, 02:12 PM
#34
The scaling on the LC-1 and the Haltech have been checked and they are the same. Again, I really don't want to use a spare AD as I have sensors for my spare AD's plus the options are there and it should work..
I will check the triggers as well as the mechanical timing to verify the notch is really at 20 deg.
I will check the triggers as well as the mechanical timing to verify the notch is really at 20 deg.
08-28-08, 06:27 PM
#36
The wiring is not the problem I went through it again by connection not color. Plus I guess I don't understand how I could have both leading and trailing zero out. The car runs not as well as it did before I reinstalled 1.89. The car acts just plain odd though now. The wideband is not reacting quickly to changes I make, the ignition timing still doesn't seem right for idle though it checks out. I did also verify the location -20 notch by visually looking at the rear rotor to determine an approximate TDC for rotor 1 and it came out correct and would zero correctly after I marked it on the pulley. Even with this setup it again is still way off everyone elses. Though I was running 10 teeth 66 angle instead of 11 and 38 as Ludwig suggested. I am also have a wierd area in idle that is causing a reving but the odd part is that the duty cycle is not following the map like it should. I understand a lag in the data but this is really slow. I also have not been able to datalog my data.
06-22-09, 02:48 PM
#37
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Have you checked your connections? on the FD sensors i believe the black wire on the main trigger is the positive, its possibly you may have wired the sensor in reverse and this is why you're not getting the settings where they're supposed to be. On the G sensor the white is positive, and both have a common green wire for ground.
This is the info i have on those, can anybody verify it?
This is the info i have on those, can anybody verify it?
http://www.k2rd.com/haltech/drawings/T03.pdf
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