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Hi has anyone figured out how to get the lc7 dash and the stock fuel level sender to work together properly? I know you can pin it to avip 4 and in put the values to 0 for empty and 100 full etc will it calculate the voltages itself once you have driven from full to empty or is it worth removing the sender unit and manually moving it so it can calibrate itself?
The IC7 will not self calibrate. I got mine about as close as I care to get it with the following settings after playing with the ohmmeter . I twas never accurate from the factory but with this at around 10% I can put in 14.5 Gallons of fuel to be full leaving a 3.5 gallon reserve. Just like stock the gauge will sit at 100% for awhile before it starts to move. I suspect this is actually because the float sits well below the "topped off" level of a full tank of fuel.
I don't suppose you know how to wire up a greddy boost solenoid to run boost through an elite 1500 do you I'm still trying to get my head around wiring and be confident with it
Boost solenoids are generally one side being a switched 12v+ wire to one side and the ground side of it will be on your DPO or Stepper outputs. Then you can set it all up in the Main Setup page on ESP
Sorry for digging up an oldy in process of ic7 setup also I'm having erratic fuel level readings once started so reads correct hen just ignition switched on once vehicle started reads lower so from 16L to 8L
I'm sure the amount circulating can't be 8liters
both the tank sender wires directly to ic7 just seeing if you have similar problems or what you guys have done to sort the this thanks
Sorry for digging up an oldy in process of ic7 setup also I'm having erratic fuel level readings once started so reads correct hen just ignition switched on once vehicle started reads lower so from 16L to 8L
I'm sure the amount circulating can't be 8liters
both the tank sender wires directly to ic7 just seeing if you have similar problems or what you guys have done to sort the this thanks
To me, this sounds like a simple wiring/voltage drop issue. What gauge wires are you using? Are you using a clean ground? Best thing I could recommend is unplugging the connector is testing from both ends to make sure your continuity is constant, then turning the ignition on to verify there isn't a problem with the wiring itself. To me, it seems more likely to be wiring than the IC7.
Has anyone messed with the smoothing filter ? So I've added an additional 11L raw voltage went from 0.4v to 0.3v and under half tank 40%
however I'll have chance to mess with it today if any ideas I will be cutting wires from tank and going into dash to eliminate possible multiplug connection find it bit strange as original dash gauge was working fine and still is working fine when switched back over
Yes as you want a wide range, the resistance combined with ic7 pull-up doesn't seem to give a wide enough range so I messed with few resisters untill I got half desent end to end voltages as long as the max voltage does not exceed 5v
Yes as you want a wide range, the resistance combined with ic7 pull-up doesn't seem to give a wide enough range so I messed with few resisters untill I got half desent end to end voltages as long as the max voltage does not exceed 5v
sorry to bring up this old post, but I was in the impression that the ic7 already has a 240 ohm resistor wired in it. (I believe they mentioned it was analog input 4? Having trouble finding which pin that is supposed to be. Currently have it pinned on 21)
Last edited by William Tang; 07-14-22 at 09:01 PM.
Newer built units have changed from a 1K ohm resistor to a 240ohm resistor inbuilt.
Their YouTube video said that AVI4 had a 240 ohm pull-up resistor built into the channel, so it got me confused. I probably have an earlier built unit, which is why even with the latest firmware and software updates, the AVI4 still shows a 1K ohm pull-up resistor in the configuration screen.
Their YouTube video said that AVI4 had a 240 ohm pull-up resistor built into the channel, so it got me confused. I probably have an earlier built unit, which is why even with the latest firmware and software updates, the AVI4 still shows a 1K ohm pull-up resistor in the configuration screen.
yeh a firmware update can't change something physical like a pull up resistor
Sorted disable internal pull-up use a 220ohm resister
You still get fluctuating but because the rage is larger it makes less of a difference overall
This is all my numbers
This is moving sender outside vehicle
Full 0.3v
Half 2v
Empty 3.4v
Sender in tank with 1/2 liter reads 3.1v empty
5litters full 2.8v this can be reserve
9L is 2.5v when started goes to 3v
Extra 10L is 2v when started goes to 2.5v
Extra 10l is 1.5v when started goes to 1.9v
Extra 10l is 1.1v when started goes to 1.5v
@imitek,
Following your approach, I finally got my Fuel Level gauge to work on my IC7. Big Thank-you for you detailing what you did - it clued me in to several things and saved me from pulling my fuel hanger out again.
My setup is a Radium Fuel Hangar with one lift pump and two supply pumps. My car was completely rewired by the previous owner and so all my wiring had to be run again from the hangar to the ECU and Dash. This is probably the reason I have a different voltage range.
As a note to all, I think everyone's cars have different voltage range settings and so I will outline my approach as it wasn't so clear in the numerous threads I found.
1. FD fuel tank is 20.1 gallon per spec.
2. First make sure to display both your fuel level and fuel voltage values on the IC7 Dash. (Fuel Level requires you wire in the sender line to pin21 on the IC7)
2. If your fuel level sender is already installed correctly, there is no need to take the fuel hanger out of the tank to test the ranges because you will get different voltages ranges when the car is on and running.
3. If you are unsure that your wiring to the IC7 is working, take a 1.5v battery and connect the sender wire to the positive and the ground to the negative. You should see the voltage value move to the 1.5v on the IC7.
4. Working Only with the Fuel Voltage Values:
4a. First find your TRUE empty - not factory empty. Run the car until it cuts off (low fuel pressure) on level ground.
4b. Add two gallons of gas from a fuel canister.
4c. Crank up the car and record the displayed Voltage. (This is now the safety margin - aka 2 gallons of safety when the fuel level will read 0 gallons on the IC7)
4d. Go to the gas station and fill up the tank until the pump shuts off. (This was 17 gallons added for me. So, TRUE EMPTY for me means there is always 1 untouchable gallon of SWILL in the tank! (2+17+1=20)
4e. Crank up the car and record the displayed Voltage. (This is now the full tank voltage on the IC7 Display)
5. Now work the Fuel Level Sensor:
5a. Use the Fuel Level 0-90 Ohm Sensor. Value Type=Volume, Scale Unit = Gallons, Pullup resistor (240 Ohm) Enabled.
5b. I Set my smoothing filter to 10,000 ms to cut down on the number or readings.
5c. I Set my Full Tank value to 0.2V and Empty Tank Value to 1.6V (Your voltages will likely differ - so measure them please - you can see mine are different from the others above)
FINAL TEST
6. Drive around until your car gets to say 7 gallons on the display.
7. In my case it means that I had 10 gallons left. (7 true gallons + 2 safety + 1 gallon untouchable)
8. Go the gas station and fill up until the pump shuts off! Perfect 10 gallons pumped.
I've still not full tank myn yet doing paint work, is yours fluctuating once started ?
myn was showing 1 liter lower once started
nice write up 👍
Thanks man. You started it. 😂.
yes it will fluctuate. Make sure to start the car, warm her and let her idle before taking any voltage readings. Use the voltage readings from the ic7.
set the smoothing interval to 10,000 ms. Should be good to go.
10-18-21, 05:11 PM
