Haltech How to set the timing E8 with FD engine
10-15-11, 11:53 AM
#1
How to set the timing E8 with FD engine
Exact step by step, Zero the timing, I have a small streetport. Yes my car is a FC using the stock coils and igniters, But with a FD engine. Chris Ludwig set-up this car almost 3 three years ago, I have the car running right now it runs good, But a know the base timing is out of whack, Because when I crank the key sometimes before it hits, It will kick back a little, Yes I started ******* with the base maps, Some I went to a single a while back. The A/F is still Ilding around 13:9 to 14:1 and closed loop down the road at highway speeds stays around 14:7. Its just a little out of whack, I have looked till my eyes are ready to pop on this forum to locate step by step instructions on how to set the base timing on a FD with a E8, And yes my firmware is Halwin 1.89
Any information about this topic would be great. I may have to take it back to Chris for a retune.
Thanks Louis
Any information about this topic would be great. I may have to take it back to Chris for a retune.
Thanks Louis
10-15-11, 05:28 PM
#2
The Ins & Outs of a Haltech Installation
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello guys, i'm a little bored and i thought i'd write this up so the newbies have something to go to apart from the HITman's site.
Here are the most important points of any Haltech installation for pretty much any car. This is a very simplified version, but hopefully i will in the future have something in much better detail on my website.
1. Make sure that the engine is in good working condition, good compression, no electrical problems in the car, and that you have a fully charged battery.
2. After installing the sensors, air temp, coolant temp, tps, map sensor, etc., and connecting them to each of their own ECU inputs, its time to load up the base map if you have one, or set all the parameters for your application.
3. The next step in all Haltech installations and setup should be setting the tigger setup correctly, this is pretty much what makes an installation go smoothly or get complicated if you get it wrong, and this is important to do even without having anything else connected like coils or injectors. This is what i normally like to do, if i have absolutely no information on the engine im working on, the base parameters to start with are usually 70 degree trigger angle and tooth offset 1, trigger and home edge falling, trigger and home gain and filters 0 / 0.
4. Having connected and setting up the tirgger and home inputs, you now want to crank over the engine a few times, and look at just the RPM reading in the engine data page, and going by what you see this will tell you what to do next. If you crank the engine and you DONT see anything happening (zero rpms) you will want to raise the gain one point at a time and cranking it untill you get a stable reading from 100-300 rpms. If you do get a stable rpm reading you can leave the settings just as they are and continue to the next step. If you get spikes i the rpm that shoot to 1000, 8000, 16000 rpms, you will then want to change the trigger and home settings, one point, and cranking again, always remember to hit APPLY / OK, and resetting the ECU after these changes. If and when you get your RPM readings to now be stable, leave the settings just as they are again and move to the next step, it may be required that you come back to these settings but we'll come back to this again later.
5. Now that you have done the trigger settings and you are able to get a steady rpm reading in the software you can connect the ignition outputs so you can see if you have done this correctly and the ignition is firing correctly. The reason for dong this first before going onto the injectors is because the spark/ignition setup is more critical than the fuel setup.
6. Once you've properly connected the ignition outputs to your ignition components you can crank again and see if you have spark, if you dont, we'll need to revise the trigger settings again, if you do, you can put your timing light on the Leading coil (or Trailing 1 for FD's) and point it at the crank pulley with your settings as follows: Trigger angle +/- 65, tooth offset 11 (5 for FD's), constant charge, falling edge, coil charge time 3.5mS (to start).
7. Now, we can go ahead and start cranking again in order to "zero" the timing. As most of you know, zero'ing the timing means to make sure that the Haltech is putting the correct timing on the motor. The way to do this is by going to the Ignition setup, locking the main timing to -5 (with 15 on the split for E8/E11) and pointing the timing light to the crank pulley and raising or lowering the trigger angle until you get the marks to line up. For trailing timing verification use T1 and the mark should align as well. If you see the mark 180 degrees off, your trailing spark plug wires are backwards or your trailing ignition outputs are reversed.
8. Once you've zero'd the timing, leave the timing lock ON for safety reasons and now you can connect the fuel injectors and trying to start the engine.
9. If the engine starts and idles you will be able to do a final check on the timing to see if its still properly lined up. With the timing lock still ON, give the engine a rev and hold it to 2000-2500 rpms, if the timing is not moving as you do this everything is set ok, and you can now finish up your installation and start tuning the engine. However, if you see the timing move as your rev it then you either have the wrong trigger edge for the main trigger or the main trigger sensor wires are backwards. In the case of using an MSD, its also possible you have the output spark edge wrong as well, but its very likely that the engine wont start if it is, on stock coils or OEM styled coils if you have the wrong spark output edge they will get very hot and possibly be damaged.
10. This is basically all the steps you need to do in order to get started, after that comes the tuning and fine tuning of the entire setup, under normal circumstances most people will not be able to tune it to perfection, at which point they should go to a certified or reputable tuner and a dyno for this.
I hope this has guided most of you through the initial setup and make things easier to get going initially.
If anybody has questions, just post and we'll go through them.
__________________
Claudio RX-7
Anything can be tuned...
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hello guys, i'm a little bored and i thought i'd write this up so the newbies have something to go to apart from the HITman's site.
Here are the most important points of any Haltech installation for pretty much any car. This is a very simplified version, but hopefully i will in the future have something in much better detail on my website.
1. Make sure that the engine is in good working condition, good compression, no electrical problems in the car, and that you have a fully charged battery.
2. After installing the sensors, air temp, coolant temp, tps, map sensor, etc., and connecting them to each of their own ECU inputs, its time to load up the base map if you have one, or set all the parameters for your application.
3. The next step in all Haltech installations and setup should be setting the tigger setup correctly, this is pretty much what makes an installation go smoothly or get complicated if you get it wrong, and this is important to do even without having anything else connected like coils or injectors. This is what i normally like to do, if i have absolutely no information on the engine im working on, the base parameters to start with are usually 70 degree trigger angle and tooth offset 1, trigger and home edge falling, trigger and home gain and filters 0 / 0.
4. Having connected and setting up the tirgger and home inputs, you now want to crank over the engine a few times, and look at just the RPM reading in the engine data page, and going by what you see this will tell you what to do next. If you crank the engine and you DONT see anything happening (zero rpms) you will want to raise the gain one point at a time and cranking it untill you get a stable reading from 100-300 rpms. If you do get a stable rpm reading you can leave the settings just as they are and continue to the next step. If you get spikes i the rpm that shoot to 1000, 8000, 16000 rpms, you will then want to change the trigger and home settings, one point, and cranking again, always remember to hit APPLY / OK, and resetting the ECU after these changes. If and when you get your RPM readings to now be stable, leave the settings just as they are again and move to the next step, it may be required that you come back to these settings but we'll come back to this again later.
5. Now that you have done the trigger settings and you are able to get a steady rpm reading in the software you can connect the ignition outputs so you can see if you have done this correctly and the ignition is firing correctly. The reason for dong this first before going onto the injectors is because the spark/ignition setup is more critical than the fuel setup.
6. Once you've properly connected the ignition outputs to your ignition components you can crank again and see if you have spark, if you dont, we'll need to revise the trigger settings again, if you do, you can put your timing light on the Leading coil (or Trailing 1 for FD's) and point it at the crank pulley with your settings as follows: Trigger angle +/- 65, tooth offset 11 (5 for FD's), constant charge, falling edge, coil charge time 3.5mS (to start).
7. Now, we can go ahead and start cranking again in order to "zero" the timing. As most of you know, zero'ing the timing means to make sure that the Haltech is putting the correct timing on the motor. The way to do this is by going to the Ignition setup, locking the main timing to -5 (with 15 on the split for E8/E11) and pointing the timing light to the crank pulley and raising or lowering the trigger angle until you get the marks to line up. For trailing timing verification use T1 and the mark should align as well. If you see the mark 180 degrees off, your trailing spark plug wires are backwards or your trailing ignition outputs are reversed.
8. Once you've zero'd the timing, leave the timing lock ON for safety reasons and now you can connect the fuel injectors and trying to start the engine.
9. If the engine starts and idles you will be able to do a final check on the timing to see if its still properly lined up. With the timing lock still ON, give the engine a rev and hold it to 2000-2500 rpms, if the timing is not moving as you do this everything is set ok, and you can now finish up your installation and start tuning the engine. However, if you see the timing move as your rev it then you either have the wrong trigger edge for the main trigger or the main trigger sensor wires are backwards. In the case of using an MSD, its also possible you have the output spark edge wrong as well, but its very likely that the engine wont start if it is, on stock coils or OEM styled coils if you have the wrong spark output edge they will get very hot and possibly be damaged.
10. This is basically all the steps you need to do in order to get started, after that comes the tuning and fine tuning of the entire setup, under normal circumstances most people will not be able to tune it to perfection, at which point they should go to a certified or reputable tuner and a dyno for this.
I hope this has guided most of you through the initial setup and make things easier to get going initially.
If anybody has questions, just post and we'll go through them.
__________________
Claudio RX-7
Anything can be tuned...
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