So thanks to everyone on this forum my car is running great. pulled very hard on my friends 13.3 sec turbo gsr integra so I am quite happy.

I am running 8-9lbs of boost on the stock turbo with an idle AFR or 12.1:1
cruising 14.5:1
and high load boost it starts off in the low 12's at 1-3lbs but as I get to 4500-7500rpms the afr goes low 10's and into the high 9's. This is off the Hitman map and all I did was scale the injectors for the orange top gsl-se.

Now I have heard that rotaries like fuel and I want to have a safe tune, but I think running this rich is a bit over kill. should I shoot for high 11's??? across the board?

btw in 3rd gear at 7300 rpms my max injector duty cycle is 86%.

Am I loosing substantial power at this afr?

Also my friends innovative wideband seems to be getting interferance from my haltech. his wideband runs great on his car and my friends but mine causes it to spike randomly it will read correct then show full lean 20:1 which isnt the case. i am guessing haltech is throwing it off so I have to sheild it???

 

well fellas I have one more question.
I have read the haltech manual back and forth but I need help with the tuning keys.

say I want to lean out the bars from 4-12 psi and I hit Control and arrow and select say...4 bars....how do I change them across the entire rpm band.

I am tired of having to select every rpm range, 500 then 1000 1500 etc etc. Like when scaling the injectors, it doesnt take too long but it is cumbersome. I think I will break the ALT-P keys on my laptop!

I used percentage alot as well, but I also cant find in the manual what to hit to "linearize the map".

 

If you are in the 9s you are losing a lot of power. Anything below a 10.7 seems to hurt power considerably with the engines I have tuned. However every engine is different. I never go below an 11:1. With stock turbo power levels you can get away with much leaner...

 

Linearize is alt-P.
All ranges (to move the same bars in all rpm ranges) is alt-R.

 

alt-R is all RPM ranges

alt-P is percentage. you hit alt-p then it asks you what percentage, then you type in +1 or -1 or +2 or -2 or whatever.
i tune by hilighting the bars i want with ALL RANGES selected, then add or subtract fuel with + or -1

 

oooopss my mistake.....linearize is alt-L. L for linearize, lol

 

I have been doing percentage changes so Im fine with that. I still cant find the linearize key.


So you are saying I can higlight all the bars in boost (right of the staging bar) then hit alt-r to select every rpm range. then I can do my alt-p and change the percentages!!!!!!!

If so I am in heaven. It was taking forever to go from 500rpms to 8500rpms. Let alone wondering if you accidentaly forgot one range.

Yes I will def get the AFR into the mid 11's.

The hitmans maps are great, but showed me slight lean at 1-2 psi partial throttle like 13.7. after that 3-12psi just kept dipping deep into the tens and then the 9's. I will have to make the maps look a bit more flat since it is almost an exponetial curve at the time being.

 

In order to linearize, you need to select a few bars, then hit alt-L...

 

thanks fort that evil

Anyone else confirm you can hit alt-r for all ranges and then make a percentage change to them all at the same time?

 

alt-R still works the same and it is for all range (rpm range).

alt-P only works on the older haltech. With the windows version. you have to hit alt-%

alt-L still the same

 

thanks.

Anyone else have wideband problems? I think it may be due to the heat of the rotary causing it to read irraticly.

 

Guys,

If you download the E6K manual from the Haltech site you will find that is has a ton more info on the shortcut keys, and functionality of the Haltech E6's, it also explain the PWMs in more detail, as well as some nice little graphs that show you how to connect the different options it has provisions for, ie. shift lights, fans, NOS, turbo timer, etc.

As for your AFR question, i have seen the effects of (bad) pump gas, good pump gas, and high octane fuel, and can tell you that sometimes, with bad or good pump gas (87 or 93) you can sometimes end up running a turbo engine alll the way to the 10's and still be making power, but, like you all know, no 2 engines are the same, and gas makes for the most important factor in deciding how to run it.

At EFI Collegue's EFI101 Seminar Ben Strader goes onto saying that sometimes its not how rich you make it, its how your engine's torque curve will respond, and hints that its best to tune for torque and not horsepower, since the torque is the power you feel from your engine.

With high octane gas, depending on the boost level you want to run, between 11's and 12 will probably be a safe/good power making number. Ambient conditions and altitude also play a very important part, so these must be considered as well.

 

thanks claudio. I live in Virginia where the elevations are very low. I probaby put 500 miles a month on the car at most, just a weekend racer/cruiser. I only fill up with amacco gas 93 octane and have a wideband constantly hooked up. I new I was running too rich. Iwas getting about 10 mpg but it pulled so hard I wasnt too worried at the time.

Once I fix my turbo to mani exhaust leak and coupler leak I will have to install my clutch then I will be good. My only major concern is if rotaries high temp causes irratic afr #'s from a wideband, either that or a electrical interferance from haltech.

 

10mpg is actually good for road racing. I'll be lucky to get 5-6mpg at WOT for 30mins. but alot of it has to do the way you drive the car too....

 

My 87 turbo FC with Haltech E6S, a not so great map, to4e turbo, FMIC, 720/800 injectors making 325hp @ 16psi on local (dominican republic) **** crap gas was doing 8mpg, and i know i can get them to run WAY better than that now, specially on light load/part throttle/cuising.

Another thing, do you guys meassure fuel economy under harsh acceleration or cruising?

WOT for 30 mins?!?!?! man! you better have an endurance car for that.

 

close loop road course will do that....

I think 5mpg sounds about right. average speed should be around 65-70mph for 30 mins. I usually consume around 5 gals a session.

 

Hello, "WOT for 30mins" does not equal a "30min average 65-70mph session", your comparison isnt really applicable. If you hit the road and go WOT for 30mins and you can stay on WOT for that amount of time you will be going top speed and even hitting the rev limiter in 5th, provided you have a long enough stretch of road.

On a road course, your arent going WOT 100% of the time either, and you cant compare a street car with that.

5mpg is too low for regular driving, i know i can make any run the same or close to stock fuel economy with proper tuning, but hammering the accelerator constantly throws the economy out the window.

 

You must not have been to any road racing before. I mentioned road course/road racing on both my replies. I never said street cruising w/ occasional WOT. A typical road course's average mph is around 70 in any dry condition. This is almost true from most track I have been to (road atlanta is probably around 78mph). I never said going WOT to hit the top speed and maintain it for 30 mins. although, the fuel consumption should be pretty close to road course racing condition. I guarantee you that you're at WOT alot more than braking in a road course. So if you want to be technical about it. I guess I can say WOT 85-90% for 30 mins. Does it sound much better for you? 10-15% of the time for braking sounds reasonable to me. and why can't you drive a street car at the track? There're plenty of drivers ed out there for road course. They use personal vehicles and not road racing ONLY cars.......

Who says about 5mpg for regular street driving? You should read what I said before replying.......

I have gotten as much as 24-25mpg on the highway before but that was not what I was refering to.