That would be funny except that I've seen it before. Good call to check for it. Symptoms were a high idle that kept getting progressively higher. The tune wasn't as bad as what's going on here but the rag was stuck in the throttle body and was holding the throttle open at idle.

 

curious if this has been fixed?

 

Thanks for inquiring
Haven't had much time to deal with it. But I'm sure there isn't a rag stuck anywhere, I never use paper towels or rags to cover up intake areas.
I did check the fuel pressure and its at about 40 at idle. Also noticed that the fuel pressure does not stay constant once primed. It shoots to 40 then slowly bleeds back down. The other gauge I had turned out to be broke, so I don't know if this is normal.

One thing I did think of was: What if when the car got tuned an injector (primary) clip wasn't seated or connected right. I'm wondering if it could have gotten tuned with one primary injector and maybe while checking everything I reconnected it and made it work like it should. The clips are pretty snug but they do have a small bit of play in them. I thought if this was it, then wouldn't the exhaust temp be pretty different front to rear? My exhaust temps were always within 100 degrees of each other.

I still need to take the whole car over to the other rotary guy and have him go over it.

 

Question:

You had a trim **** installed.

Did the tuner muck with that at all during the tune?

What I'm getting at is those ***** are pretty easy to turn and there's no indicator other then dot on the ****.....could have easily been cranked one way or the other, and been bumped during some operation.

 

I told him about the trim **** and all the adjustment to fuel etc he made sure the **** read 0% on the data page.

I typically have the **** on 0%, I marked it pretty close and it usually lands within a few 10ths of a percent of 0.
During all this starting and idling of my car, I've had it cranked all the way down which makes it -12% fuel. And its still 10 afr.

 

You don't happen to have any old datalogs from when the car was running well would you? Just like a random DL from that time.

If so, and one happened to contain a "picture" of an idle condition, you could check the PW or MS on time of the injectors and compare it to what you have now to verify whether or not it was a change that took place in the ECU.

Otherwise, what injectors are in the car? size? age? etc.

 

which is why I say ditch the trim ... it is really only for endurance racing where someone will see a big change in climate or need to reduce/increase fuel consumption... there is really nothing the trim **** can do that the map can't for street/strip applications

 

Great idea! I have a ton of logs, I'll have to check them when I get back to my laptop.
720cc Primary
1680cc Secondary
They are no older than about a year old.

 

Just a side note...
Stock is 40psi with the engine OFF.
If the engine is idling, the fuel pressure should be 40psi MINUS the idle vacuum.
So a stock car should see about 35psi of fuel rail pressure at engine idle.

Now, this doesn't really mean much with a Haltech install...


-Ted

 

Ok, Interesting development.
Checked the data log pre gaby skern (which was still very driveable and boostable) , after Gaby skern and then currently how it is now.
I checked pre and after the tune and the idle inj time was basically the same,
Before
At idle, ~1000 rpm the inj time was about 1.733 ms.

Currently now
At a rough ~1000 idle the inj timing is hopping around 8.5-9.5 ms.
So thats a pretty huge difference, this sounds like what the issue is, like an injector issue.
Now could a injector all of a sudden being connected cause the inj timing to jump like that?

 

what do the fuel maps look like at 750, 1000 and 1250 RPM? (screen shots would be good)

have you made any changes to any fuel correction maps?

have you turned any fuel correction maps on or off?

are you using the zero throttle map?

 

Will this work?
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3268/...e44a8fa2_o.jpg
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3259/...82d98b23_o.jpg

You see those strange random dips in the fuel map? That's just where I leaned it out a bit since it was a tad richer than it needed to be for normal driving. Ones for idle and the other dip is for what I typically cruise at.
I adjusted that map over a month or so ago way way before I had any issues with the car. That's the last time I messed with the map.

Not sure about fuel correction, I know there's a few fuel/correction maps that are always on. As far as I know they are setup pretty safely and probably never used.
I haven't touched any of the correction maps.

No zero or full throttle map.

 

can you post your map

 

I tried to upload it to a server but can't find one that will upload that type of file.
I can email to whoever wants to take a peek

 

try to recalibrate your TPS under Throttle Setup in the setup menu... your TPS spans from 17 to 37, seems a little narrow??? (what TPS are you using?)

couple more things i noticed are that your air temp correction map and coolant temp correction maps are a little out of whack...

in general both of those correction maps should drop as the temps rise and not come back up. yours go to near zero and then start coming back up, which would make a rich condition over your whole fuel map from idle to full throttle in those temperature ranges

check the resistance in your injectors, make sure they are within spec.

the only other thing i could think of is there is a piece of crap stuck in the injector but you would probably see some flooding if that was the case.

 

The fuel injectors are not to blame.

NO.


-Ted

 

Its a plain GM tps. I don't know why its a pretty narrow range.

 

Thanks guys for all the help. Sorry if i sound like a quitter and if you guys think all this was for nothing.
I just decided I'm just going to part the car out. I need a decent DD now.


thanks again

 

damn dude... before you do that, try loading one of Claudios base maps from the sticky above