Does anyone have experience with Haltech's terminated harnesses? Especially the one terminated for IGN-1A:

https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-1...8SAesdOSD6wkts

I had an Adaptronic and simplified OEM harness ready to go, but changed my mind and decided to go with Haltech. I was hoping someone here had experience with haltech's harness - how close to plug n play is it?

 

Haven't used Haltech's harness myself, but one major advantage of this harness is how power is wired up to it due to the fuse box which is incorporated into the harness. If you look at their wiring docs it'll give you a better idea of what's going on there, but basically it enables the ECU to control power to itself and ignition system vs the key ignition controlling this. This allows the ECU to decide when it shut itself down after key ignition is turned off, enabling function like running an electric water pump for X secs after key off. This is the ideal way to write up an Elite. For my setup, I swapped from an Adaptronic Modular to the Elite 1500 and had an existing Rywire Modular harness which I adapted to use with the haltech. This does not have the added power relays so it means the ecu is turned off with ignition as is the case with most ECUs. Other than that, the Rywire harness checks all the boxes. I made my own IGN adaptor harness to going from the Rywire to the coils.

I'm not sure what sensor connectors the Haltech harness incorporates or how custom your setup is (ie DBW, WI, etc), but if it has everything you need it's prob not a bad choice. If it doesn't, then getting a custom harness from Rywire or Chris Ludwig might only cost a bit more.

 

It’s not a complete plug in harness. It does not have provisions for the transmission connections, coolant temp gauge sender, X05, X14, etc. For the money, IMO, you’re better off having myself or another builder put together and actually plug in replacement harness with all the required circuits.

Further, Haltech’s fuel pump circuit is badly undersized for the amp draw of most pumps. Just one more thing you’ll need to correct.

 

So do you just replace the fuel pump wire on the Haltech harness with a thicker gauge wire?

 

Yes. All the way from the battery, through the fuse box, and out to the pump.

 

Or you could just keep the Haltech harness it as is and run the signal through a relay like most of us already have.

 

Chris's way doesn't use a redundant relay.

 

I'm preparing for installing the Haltech Elite 1500 with the Haltech harness into my car and have another question. I bought a bracket that mounts the fuse box next to the ABS unit in the engine bay, which seems like an ideal location for it. However, the Haltech harness locates the fuse box in the cabin. See the picture below. Where is the original intended mounting location for the fuse box with this Haltech harness? And how should I go about re-configuring the harness to have the fuse box in the engine bay?

 

I'm preparing for installing the Haltech Elite 1500 with the Haltech harness into my car and have another question. I bought a bracket that mounts the fuse box next to the ABS unit in the engine bay, which seems like an ideal location for it. However, the Haltech harness locates the fuse box in the cabin. See the picture below. Where is the original intended mounting location for the fuse box with this Haltech harness? And how should I go about re-configuring the harness to have the fuse box in the engine bay

I'm curious about this myself, since right now I have my fuse box in the passenger seat floorboard. What are some of the mounting solutions you guys have come up with?

 

IR Performance and Elite Rotary both sell fuse box mounting brackets that sits next to the ABS pump. I found that Haltech sells replacement grommets for their harness, so you can just cut the current one to reroute the fuse box harness in the engine bay.

 

digging up an old thread sorry haha,

has anyone deleted alot of the stock front harness when they installed the haltech harness?

also, haltech harness for the alternator has three wires and my stock one only has two?? what's the go there?

 

I didn't use the alternator or starter wires from the Haltech harness since I left the original wiring in place.

I ended up just removing my old engine harness completely. I routed new wires and connectors to the coolant level sensor, the PS switch, the backup light switch, speedometer, and clutch switch. The remaining connections are on the Haltech harness.

 

I'm looking into getting The Haltech terminated harness on my 97 JDM S7 car, can you elaborate on exactly what else needed to be connected/hardwired for your FD's factory equipment to work such as transmission connections, coolant temp gauge sender, X05, X14, Air conditioner, Power steering etc. There wasn't specifics on one of the replies on this thread on what is not included in this harness and what needs to be hard wired in, except you stated "coolant level sensor, the PS switch, the backup light switch, speedometer, and clutch switch". I'm assuming these sensor/switches are on the chassis pig tail?
I'm also considering using Haltech's plug and play adapter and using my OEM engine harness. Reason for doing this is retain as much of the OEM chassis components as intact as possible, if the factory harness is questionable, it may be a better idea to use the Haltech terminated harness. Either way there will be some hard wiring needed, just trying to figure out which method would save me time vs convenience without splicing into the chassis harness to make the factory gauges etc..work.

I've read another thread
Looking for advice/insight on PNP vs custom Elite 1500 harness - RX7Club.com - Mazda RX7 Forum
OP suggested:
1) Haltech Elite 1500 with pnp adapter, Rywire harness. This isn't an option for me. I contacted Rywire, they don't have a chassis adapter for the S7 cars.

 

The terminated harness gives you about 80% of what you need. The remaining 20% still requires a bit of work to make all the connections. After adding all the connectors, the whole harness is still about 36" too long. My next step is to shorten the whole harness so I don't have a big harness loop under my dash, so that's going to be another decent sized project. I also had to disassemble the harness a little bit and replace the fuel pump wire with a thicker gauge wire.

If you just want a plug and play part, I would just get a custom Elite 1500 harness. If the cost is in the same ballpark as the terminated harness, or even 20-25% more, it's probably worth the time saved. I spent a boatload of time studying the factory service manual wiring diagrams since this stuff was all new to me and I didn't want to screw it up. Good luck.

 

Haltech didn’t think that far into it. The fuse box is not sealed in any way. Every terminal will corrode if it’s installed under the hood. It needs to go inside.