Haltech Haltech e8 Timing Shifting (Cranking vs. Running)
#1
Haltech e8 Timing Shifting (Cranking vs. Running)
I am attempting to tune a 13b-re engine with a Haltech e8 (Halwin V1.89 Firmware Build 35) and am getting more frustrated as time goes on. I have been having problems locking the timing. My zeroing process was as follows......
Rotated the crank until the 5 ATDC mark lined up with the front cover pointer
Stabbed the CAS using the factory method
Set the tooth offset to 11 and the trigger angle to 64
Locked the timing to -5 degrees
Disabled the injectors
Put a timing light on T1
Cranked the engine
Rotated the CAS until the -5 degree mark lined up with the pointer
Next, I ran a series of tests with the following results............
Test 1: Locked timing at -5 degrees with 15 degree trailing split and verified timing on L1 while CRANKING.
Result 1: 5 degrees ATDC
Test 2: Locked timing at -5 degrees with 15 degree trailing split and verified timing on T1 while CRANKING.
Result 2: No spark
Test 3: Checked for spark on T2 while CRANKING.
Result 3: No spark
Test 4: Unlocked timing and set cranking ignition map to 10 BTDC and verified timing on L1 while CRANKING.
Result 4: 10 BTDC
Test 5: Locked timing to -5 degrees and verified timing on L1 while RUNNING.
Result 5: Approximately 35 degrees ATDC
Test 6: Unlocked timing and set zero throttle ignition map to 27 degrees BTDC and verified timing on L1 while RUNNING.
Result 6: 5 degrees ATDC
Test 7: Locked timing to -5 degrees and set cranking RPM under "Main" from 300 RPM to 100 RPM (car cranks at about 200 rpm) and verified timing while CRANKING.
Result 7: Approximately 35 degrees ATDC
It seems that when the RPM passes the "Max Cranking RPM," whether cranking or running, the haltech is retarding the timing by about 30 degrees. I'm not sure why I'm not getting spark on the trailing plugs now, but I was not earlier today. Any thoughts as to why this is happening?
Rotated the crank until the 5 ATDC mark lined up with the front cover pointer
Stabbed the CAS using the factory method
Set the tooth offset to 11 and the trigger angle to 64
Locked the timing to -5 degrees
Disabled the injectors
Put a timing light on T1
Cranked the engine
Rotated the CAS until the -5 degree mark lined up with the pointer
Next, I ran a series of tests with the following results............
Test 1: Locked timing at -5 degrees with 15 degree trailing split and verified timing on L1 while CRANKING.
Result 1: 5 degrees ATDC
Test 2: Locked timing at -5 degrees with 15 degree trailing split and verified timing on T1 while CRANKING.
Result 2: No spark
Test 3: Checked for spark on T2 while CRANKING.
Result 3: No spark
Test 4: Unlocked timing and set cranking ignition map to 10 BTDC and verified timing on L1 while CRANKING.
Result 4: 10 BTDC
Test 5: Locked timing to -5 degrees and verified timing on L1 while RUNNING.
Result 5: Approximately 35 degrees ATDC
Test 6: Unlocked timing and set zero throttle ignition map to 27 degrees BTDC and verified timing on L1 while RUNNING.
Result 6: 5 degrees ATDC
Test 7: Locked timing to -5 degrees and set cranking RPM under "Main" from 300 RPM to 100 RPM (car cranks at about 200 rpm) and verified timing while CRANKING.
Result 7: Approximately 35 degrees ATDC
It seems that when the RPM passes the "Max Cranking RPM," whether cranking or running, the haltech is retarding the timing by about 30 degrees. I'm not sure why I'm not getting spark on the trailing plugs now, but I was not earlier today. Any thoughts as to why this is happening?
#2
What ignition box are you running and how do you have the output of the haltech set? Also when you zero the timing it should be -5 degrees checking it from the leading plug not the trailing.
#3
talking head
whilst under the cranking rpm threshold,, the trailing sparks do not fire and all injectors operate
ie the ECU operates non sequentially
this is normal for just about all ECU's
and myself with that firmware have always found the stock stab works out to be 10/65
hence the 30 degree discrepancy
myself,, i lock timing to 10 BTDC ( as many ported engines prefer at idle )
and use calipers to mark 10 BTDC on the pulley
( merely projecting the -5 and -20 split clockwise from the -5 mark = 10 BTDC )
PS always make sure you save map changes and do the turn on/off key thing regularly to accept the changes
when tuning put up the tuners gauge page ( control G ) and confirm you have timing locked there
ie the ECU operates non sequentially
this is normal for just about all ECU's
and myself with that firmware have always found the stock stab works out to be 10/65
hence the 30 degree discrepancy
myself,, i lock timing to 10 BTDC ( as many ported engines prefer at idle )
and use calipers to mark 10 BTDC on the pulley
( merely projecting the -5 and -20 split clockwise from the -5 mark = 10 BTDC )
PS always make sure you save map changes and do the turn on/off key thing regularly to accept the changes
when tuning put up the tuners gauge page ( control G ) and confirm you have timing locked there
Last edited by bumpstart; 03-21-10 at 03:35 AM. Reason: PS
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