rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Hello, Looking around for more information on other users, currently running one.

Aside from that some little help on buying two things..

My only real question is, when installing the magnets into the racing beat duel pully or single main pully, at the haltech/correct spots *180Dgrs/timing marks*.


Does? the year of these magnets reflect to the measurement of the HES
and is their a block off plate for the old Crank angle sensor :to remove that from the range of the HES.

For the Where to buy wire? Being that the E6K I had purchased was obviously used, the removal and lack of wire, I would love to purchase some of the exact same color coding? Can someone give me a hint of where I can buy several feet of the colors I require?

I have a S5 TII JDM the old owner had a S4 with many mods, causing more modifications.

SirCygnus

iTrader: (1)

EFI Connection, LLC - Automotive TXL Wire

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

Good lord! That's some pricey wire. Prowire USA Mil-spec Tefzel wire cheaper than you can find TXL and GXL most any place else.

To install the magnets properly you need to set the crank at approximately 65* BTDC. With the crank in the this position, the #1 magnet should be aligned with the sensor. The #2 magnet will be exactly 180* opposite. Any deviation from 180* will show up as timing slop. The way to do it is to work backwards. Figure out where you'll mount your sensor and get it secured. The mount needs to be very stout. You can have no vibration relative to the engine. Once the sensor is secure you can then position the crank and figure out where the #1 magnet goes. You can be +/- 10* or so and it's not a big deal. Wherever the magnet ends up relative to TDC becomes your trigger angle value. So you can adjust that value to get the timing zeroed. You would just like the trigger angle value to be somewhere between about 50 and 70* ideally.

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE]
Prowire isn't exactly that great for my project, Im trying to replace and extend colors on the E6K, so im stuck with TXL and GXL, thanks anyway. ... Other option is rip apart the cheapest harness I can find. but thats a gamble.

Im aware of the install, I have a bracket and sensor, so in my case which should be very simple: 65* puts the Keyway at 9oClock and the -5ATDC Timing mark little off 1oClock. My sensor should be 12 and 6(directly positioned up and down) on the first magnent. then the second 180* from the first.When done im the top magnet at 11oClock and 2nd roughly the opposite 5oClock. (using clock for general term not measurements).

My Problem ludwig is,
1.I use to find the the crank at 65Degrees using the "asumed" pully and, CAS, ? They use a timing wheel, that goes off the keyway? These work for all 13b?

If someone could aid me on that tid bit of information on who still sells them. I think im set for life.

2. If The Pully used is ... Racing beat duel, im asuming the Halleffect RUNS OFF the 180* so the pully doesn't matter? just the fact that the sensor reads the 180*apart in distance between rotations and the distance in "Hight"? All at from the original 50-70+ placement .
The question im trying to ask is, a template would work! If your sensor is EXACTLY at your 65ish* angle so you could drill off that?



... if anyway has read my previous posts... I figured them all out, worst thing was all caused by faulty guides not work off S5 JDM: The problem... Gasket (pressure loss) Faulty Trigger's for the fuel pump(WIRE IT TO proper guage wire and a switch... is what I learned :P stock triggers are GARBAGE for essentail parts. lack of power and short trigger responce, caused lack of pressure and LOWWWW idle)

rotor_veux

iTrader: (3)

Would like to thank you anyway, This pretty well was my "option", and sadly ludwig for 10feet where I live is roughly 0.50-1.00 a foot, Which is CRAZY
50 dollers off efi or 150 here for only primary colors.