Haltech Good idle without a BAC valve
#1
Good idle without a BAC valve
Hi guys,
I have a ported 13b-re with a e6k. I have hard time getting a stable idle in every condition. I would like to know if it's possible to have a nice and stable idle without using a BAC valve ? Currently I'm not using it. Keep in mind that where I live the temperature goes from 15F to 90F.
Thanks a lot
I have a ported 13b-re with a e6k. I have hard time getting a stable idle in every condition. I would like to know if it's possible to have a nice and stable idle without using a BAC valve ? Currently I'm not using it. Keep in mind that where I live the temperature goes from 15F to 90F.
Thanks a lot
#3
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i think it really depends on the motor. i have a stock port stock everything except exhaust and emmissions removal and it idles solid as a rock at any temp. then i have a very large street port motor with a GT35r and it wont idle worth **** until it is up to temp.
#4
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It should idle fine. There's a few ways to go about it such as using the zero throttle map but you shouldn't ned to do that...........my 1/2 bridge idles great at 1300 (yes, I know high - but its a 1/2 bridge) with no BAC or zero throttle map.
Are you sure that the trottle body is operating freely and that there are no other issues that would cause a poor idle such as vac leaks? ALthough a vac leak in a map based system would simply raise the idle more so then make in fluctuate.
Whats your injector size and duration at idle? what rpm? how much does it fluctuate? Does it do it hot or only cold?
Are you sure that the trottle body is operating freely and that there are no other issues that would cause a poor idle such as vac leaks? ALthough a vac leak in a map based system would simply raise the idle more so then make in fluctuate.
Whats your injector size and duration at idle? what rpm? how much does it fluctuate? Does it do it hot or only cold?
#5
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still better to just use a BAC and easy enough to set up, especially for warmup, I had mine to the point where you could turn the key without touching the GAS and the idle would come up to 2K then go back down to 800, it would not stall comming back to idle even when cold and would idle consistently regardless of alt draw or A/C.
#7
Thanks for all the replies guy.
First I found a vacuum leak on one of my secondary injector. I don't think it help. However I have set the idle when the car is warmed. It's rock solid at 800 rpm. When the car is warm up all correction map are at 0. Only the base map is used when the car is warmed up.
The problem is that when I start the car the day after sometime it won't hold the idle and it's kind of annoying. I have to modify the map to have it idle again. Also I have to let the car warm up before driving it else it bugs everytimes I press the gas.
I have 550cc/1600cc.
I will get more information tomorrow but other inputs are welcome.
Another point, the car heatsoak as hell. And I tuned the idle correctly before starting it was fine. But after 30 min of drive the air temp increases a lot and the idle is less stable.
Thanks again!
First I found a vacuum leak on one of my secondary injector. I don't think it help. However I have set the idle when the car is warmed. It's rock solid at 800 rpm. When the car is warm up all correction map are at 0. Only the base map is used when the car is warmed up.
The problem is that when I start the car the day after sometime it won't hold the idle and it's kind of annoying. I have to modify the map to have it idle again. Also I have to let the car warm up before driving it else it bugs everytimes I press the gas.
I have 550cc/1600cc.
I will get more information tomorrow but other inputs are welcome.
Another point, the car heatsoak as hell. And I tuned the idle correctly before starting it was fine. But after 30 min of drive the air temp increases a lot and the idle is less stable.
Thanks again!
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