So just wanted to double check on how to wire the crank sensor.

The FD has NE sensor and G sensor on the crank. my e8 harness has a shielded wire setup containing 4 wires.

Looking at the diagram its a 12switch, ground, trigger and home.

can someone let me know which ones go to where?


does the ground go to both sensors and the trigger and home to the corresponding sensor?

 

Blue - Common Ground
Red - Not Used, make sure to insulate it from the shielding
Green - Home Input, single tooth out sensor
Yellow - Trigger Input, 12 tooth inner sensor

 

would this work for a series 4 cas?

 

Yes. The blue is the common ground to both white and white/black. Red is not used and must be properly insulated. Yellow is the trigger input, connects to red of CAS. Green is home input and connects to green of CAS.

 

****!! I'll have to rewire the damn thing again. I cannot seem to get it right. Tomorrow i'll clean up that mess, happan to know the correct settings for the trigger setup menu?

cheers

 

For the FC - tooth offset 11, trigger angle ~65

 

isnt this also the same for the FD?

says the same (except for e6x) up on the pins. ...though haltechs schematic says offset 5

o_O

 

Yeah, the tooth offset is different for the FD because the sensors are in a different position relative to TDC. As far as the ECU is concerned though, the FC and FD trigger are the same. If you stabbed the FC CAS just right you could end up with a tooth offset of 5 also.

 

Does this tooth offset have something to do with the alignment of the two big teeth and the smaller teeth below in relation to TDC?

 

Yes. The numbers are really irrelevant for the most part. They're a means to an end and the common numbers everyone uses for the FC are only useful if you stab the CAS the same way as everyone else. The most common method is the factory proscribed method of aligning the crank pulley's 5* ATDC mark with the indicator pin on the front cover, aligning the dimple on the CAS drive gear with the indicator on the CAS housing, and inserting the CAS into the front cover. When timed this way the Haltech will want a tooth offset of 11 and a trigger angle of around 65* +/-.

The truth is you can stab the CAS almost any way you want and you'll be able to manipulate the numbers to get it zeroed in. However, it's much easier to describe a complete process to everyone and do it the same way as it is to explain how the system actually works.

 

I havent got to touch the seven since last weekend, hopfully this weekend i'll get a chance to correct my faulty wiring job. In an effort to ensure less troubles on fire up day, I have been checking the sensors one by one as I wire them up.

If I put the right values into the Trigger set up menu and turn the CAS over with an electric drill I should get a RPM value other than zero, which is all I have been getting thus far.

From what it sounds like, regardless of the values entered for the tooth offset and offset angle I should still get an RPM reading, the CAS will just not know where the engine is in its cycle.

Cannot wait to try this out!

cheers

 

Exactly.

 

Got it!! Even got the tacho to work off PWM 1!!

I got the tach to 4000rpm with my drill, it felt good to see that tach move, even if its sitting on the passenger seat with jumper wires going to it.

I would like to get someone to take a picture!!

thankyou for all your help,
cheers