Haltech e8, starts and idles sometimes...
#1
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e8, starts and idles sometimes...
I loaded the e8 basemap for 13bt with 550/1680 injectors. When i crank the car over sometimes i can get it to start and idle and other times it just refuses to start. Secondly, after idling for a few minutes it dies. After this, it is next to impossible to get it started with out lettingit sit for atleast 1hr. At idle my map reading off the haltech screen is 0.2psi. The motor has trouble reving. It rev up to say 3k rpms and just die. When i rev the motor my boost gauge (not teh haltech reading) swings to -10psi as the revs are dropping. The haltech reading is more or less constant.
I pulled the spark plugs and the bottom rear plug appears to be considerably dirtier than the other 3.
Where are you drawing your pressure inlet for your map? Mine is coming from the bottom nipple on the throttle body on the firewall side. I draw the pressure signal for the fpr and my boost gauge from the front.
When removing my uim i found GAS in the rear runner. How the hell it got there, i have no clue.....
I am still waiting on a new base map from my engine porter, that might be part of the issue.
I am sure that the wiring is correct.
any idea what is going wrong here?
thanks for your help
I pulled the spark plugs and the bottom rear plug appears to be considerably dirtier than the other 3.
Where are you drawing your pressure inlet for your map? Mine is coming from the bottom nipple on the throttle body on the firewall side. I draw the pressure signal for the fpr and my boost gauge from the front.
When removing my uim i found GAS in the rear runner. How the hell it got there, i have no clue.....
I am still waiting on a new base map from my engine porter, that might be part of the issue.
I am sure that the wiring is correct.
any idea what is going wrong here?
thanks for your help
#2
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1) Change the fitting - I think you're drawing off a fitting PRIOR to the TB; you need one AFTER the TB. You need to double check the front ones too - especially the FPR. I know for a fact, the lower and upper one can be used for vacuum / boost - the MIDDLE one is BOOST ONLY; you will never see vacuum on the middle fitting.
2) It's a base map - it needs to be tuned. Fix above first and then worry about #2.
-Ted
2) It's a base map - it needs to be tuned. Fix above first and then worry about #2.
-Ted
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Thanks Ted and classicauto. Redid all the vacuum lines fired/idled/ran first try. Its amazing how well things work when you have the ecu getting good signals.
if anyone cares here is how i have things run:
I have the map on the front top nipple, line for my boost controller on the middle, my boost gauge on the bottom.
On the rear i have the brake booster, primary air bleed, and secondary air bleed, the rest are capped.
if anyone cares here is how i have things run:
I have the map on the front top nipple, line for my boost controller on the middle, my boost gauge on the bottom.
On the rear i have the brake booster, primary air bleed, and secondary air bleed, the rest are capped.
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