Haltech E8 FD Ignition CAS
10-11-07, 07:21 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
E8 FD Ignition CAS
I've been trying to get my FD running for several days and I'm stuck.
Heres where I'm at:
FD 13b-rew, new build race port, compression great on all faces.
Haltech E8 LS1 coils 850, 1600's
stock CAS
Tooth offset - I've seen 3, 5, 11 posted by different people as correct.
I'm using 10, trigger angle 52 and I'm zeroed. -5 locked on T1.
The trigger diagnostic clearly shows trigger reading 12 times as fast as the home. Trigger count 12.
Right now the car idles rough, without any throttle response.
Video Here.http://www.darkslide750.com/video/fd.wmv
Is the tooth offset off?
Heres where I'm at:
FD 13b-rew, new build race port, compression great on all faces.
Haltech E8 LS1 coils 850, 1600's
stock CAS
Tooth offset - I've seen 3, 5, 11 posted by different people as correct.
I'm using 10, trigger angle 52 and I'm zeroed. -5 locked on T1.
The trigger diagnostic clearly shows trigger reading 12 times as fast as the home. Trigger count 12.
Right now the car idles rough, without any throttle response.
Video Here.http://www.darkslide750.com/video/fd.wmv
Is the tooth offset off?
10-11-07, 08:38 AM
#2
You need to zero it on L1...
L1 at -5. Zero it there then rev the engine to around 3k with the timing locked to see if the timing walks on you as the revs come up. If it does you have a problem in the setup menu. If it doesn't you should be good to go.
The timing wasn't still locked when you shot that vid was it?
The actual offset number you use isn't necessarily important. It's only a means to arrive at zeroing the trigger. You can look at the tooth offset as a very coarse means of altering timing and the trigger angle as a fine means. If you get it zeroed on the timing mark and it stays there while the timing is locked and the engine is revved then it's correct.
L1 at -5. Zero it there then rev the engine to around 3k with the timing locked to see if the timing walks on you as the revs come up. If it does you have a problem in the setup menu. If it doesn't you should be good to go.
The timing wasn't still locked when you shot that vid was it?
The actual offset number you use isn't necessarily important. It's only a means to arrive at zeroing the trigger. You can look at the tooth offset as a very coarse means of altering timing and the trigger angle as a fine means. If you get it zeroed on the timing mark and it stays there while the timing is locked and the engine is revved then it's correct.
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