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Haltech E6X wont start, runs perfect when warm outside

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Old 10-01-08, 09:48 AM
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E6X wont start, runs perfect when warm outside

Have a E6x installed on my fc. Car was running tip top and one day in the early morning i go in to start it and it didnt. Car cranks but doesnt start. So far i have confirmed that i have fuel and spark . Iv noticed i only have the problem when its cold outside. When its warm outside it runs perfect. I even ran it to seven stock and back with this condition (was a b**** to start that morning and only managaed to start it around 11:30am). Any ideas on what it might be? or if its even the haltec? AIT sensor maybe? Thanks in advance.

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Old 10-01-08, 11:03 AM
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Corrections! Corrections! Corrections! Its all about corrections, coolant temp, air temp, post start enrichments, throttle pumps, etc.
Old 10-01-08, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Claudio RX-7
Corrections! Corrections! Corrections! Its all about corrections, coolant temp, air temp, post start enrichments, throttle pumps, etc.
saying it could be anyone of those and some?
Old 10-01-08, 11:28 AM
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Yes, its basically tuning. A cold engine requires different fueling and timing than a warm one.
Old 10-01-08, 11:54 AM
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feared it might be that. that brings me to my next question. why did this happen all of a sudden? iv turned on the car in much cooler temps with no problems. seems like i might have to get it tuned
Old 10-02-08, 07:35 PM
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Why do people blame components when something goes wrong?
It sounds like the PRIMER or cranking map needs to be adjusted on the colder ranges.
I dunno what you mean by tuning-in-colder-temps, but adjusting the PRIMER map in the cold ranges is a royal pain in the ***.
Did you really crank / adjust map / let motor cool down / repeat for this???


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Old 10-03-08, 01:16 AM
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reason i started thinking it might be sensors was because it was running fine before even in pretty cool temps and all of a sudden it wouldnt start. just thought it might be a sensor that went wacky, i dont know, thats why i posted here to see if i could find whats going on. and as far as messing with the map, i think im going to leave that to the pros for now, as this is my daily and dont know to much about tunning so far
Old 10-03-08, 01:20 AM
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feel free to correct, thats why im here to read and learn. just dont be too mean
Old 10-03-08, 08:25 PM
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If you have access to the comm program, you can monitor the sensors directly to see if there is anything weird about them.


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Old 10-04-08, 04:21 PM
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my stupid laptop died about 3 months ago, i was actually thinking of just taking my whole pc out there haha
Old 10-04-08, 06:04 PM
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you could take your PC out there... or you could just sprinkle pixie dust over your car and wave your magic wand at it... in the meantime I will look into my Chrystal ball and figure it out
Old 10-04-08, 06:08 PM
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Take it to a reputable tuner that will be able to tackle the cold starts as well as other corrections.
Old 10-05-08, 01:45 PM
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^^exactly what im gonna do, just hooked up my pc and all sensors seem ok?
Old 10-05-08, 05:44 PM
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im sure its a correction map that needs to be tuned... also have you tried reloading the map?
Old 10-06-08, 12:03 AM
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i dont have the map, car came with it. dude from illicit performance should be coming down to check it out. hes the one who did the install and tuning.
Old 10-14-08, 11:02 PM
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turns out i had no rpm signal. would get it and then just go out. there was trouble with ground interference from the starter it seemed. i grounded the battery straight to the tranny/starter bolt, then briged it to the frame. and boom, i have rpm signal. shes running like a champ....for now at least thanks for the input guys
Old 10-15-08, 10:03 PM
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celebrated alittle too soon. rpm's died again today
Old 10-16-08, 12:49 PM
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I've ran into this issue on my FC before and it really got bad when BDC was up here.

We were tuning the car one eve, I went home, tried starting it the next day but got no RPM signal. I had to lower the gains/filters for it to get signal.

Then after running for 15 minutes signal completely cut out....had to raise the gains back up to get signal on the now warm engine.

I replaced the CAS with another and using the gains/filters I had originally it worked fine.

I suspect the CAS magnets were perhaps weak or aging and the signal they would put out when hot required more filtering for the ECU to make sense of........but when they'd cool off and become stronger, the signal was different enough to warrant changing the gains. I have no idea why it did though - just my hypothesis.

Last edited by classicauto; 10-16-08 at 12:52 PM.
Old 11-09-08, 01:08 PM
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The ra10 fixed the problem right away. its running fine now. when its cold it doesnt idle as well as it did before but once its alittle warm and driven on, idles just fine........what a pain in the *** this problem was....
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