Perfect. Exactly what I was looking for... Thanks again for all your help Chris!

 

One coil is toasted... Ill be ordering one from ya Chris... Fuel pump still won't stay on.., I know I can make it work in a couple other ways but really want the ecu to run it properly... Haven't gotten to tach yet...

 

Ordered a coil from you Chris. I really appreciate all your help troubleshooting this.. Would a bad coil make the ecu kill the fuel pump somehow?

 

Coil is on the way.

No. I can't imagine it would. Possibly whatever caused the coil to fail could be the root cause. How did the coil fail?

 

Pretty sure its been fried since the get go... when i initially was trying to fire it up i had the ecu on constant duty... although I did have it idling at one point.... i wonder if it was running off the trailing coil only... The stock wire that goes to the coolant temp sensor for the carb choke thermostat did arc out on the block at one point... ( spade terminal inside plastic connector somehow touched block) i don't know if that is at all related... i couldn't find and blown fuses or anything... i might have to get out the FSM and trace that schematics... I've tried loading different maps too to see if i messed something up... no luck yet... do you have any base map I could try... i just want to be able to get where i can put 500 miles on it so it will be ready to tune...

Thanks!

Oh i think my plugs are fouled too i have NGK race 10s and 9s.. these ok?

 

Btw thanks for getting coil out quickly!

 

Put new coil on... Ran fine for about 15-20 mins... Then it died... Fuel pump won't stay on still but it would initially... Also still having trouble getting idle below 1000 Tried to set base timing but it keeps jumping between two different spots..

Help....... Someone please...

 

Ok I think Might have figured something out... I have my stock fb wire connected to the bottom (L) terminal on my fd alternator... Nothing is connected to the top (S) terminal... According to a diagram I found online for s6 alternator the L should go to gauge and S should go to batt power, or maybe key power... Does this mean my alt wasn't charging correctly? I thought my volt meter said it was charging but then again I did have my battery charger on most of the time... Anyone think this could be the root of my problem?

 

CAS was off a tooth.., guess ecu didn't think engine was running... Cut fuel pump... Issue resolved....

 

Never mind , the problem is back...i didn't do a thing to the car

 

how do you know your fuel pump is turning off while running? do you have a voltmeter you can check for 12V at the pump as it is running? sounds like your fuel map is just off

you can also check the haltech fuel pump output (blk/yel wire at the fuelpump relay). the haltech grounds this pin to turn fuel pump on, so if you backprobe it at the fuelpump relay (relay still plugged in), it should read 12V with fuel pump off, zero volts when its trying to turn fuel pump on

 

Because fuel pressure drops/ can't hear the pump and if I wire the relay to batt ground it works

 

try a different relay, or just swap the two haltech relays. if still no luck, try what i posted before, that will verify the hatlech output

 

I don't need to verify anything.. I already posted what the problem is... The ecu doesn't give a ground signal to turn on the fuel pump besides the key on prime ...