Haltech Cold startup/idle trouble. Feast or famine!
10-11-09, 04:54 PM
#1
Cold startup/idle trouble. Feast or famine!
Hello there, perhaps the forum wisdom can help me out with my startup/idle troubles on my cold engine.
I'm running an E6k. Injectors are 550/1600. I am NOT running a BAC or anything, I am barebones engine here.
My correction maps (air/fuel + ignition/coolant) are all in place, similar to the map download for 550/1600 ported + upgraded turbo. I am mostly playing with my fuel maps in the 500 and 1000rpm range. When the engine is cold (less than 90's coolant temp), it will fire up, struggle and then stall. What I do is hold the pedal gently and have it warm up that way, but it will be pig rich. Once it's warm, I can make it idle great. It used to idle low 11's when warm, so I leaned out my bars. As I leaned them out, my idle jumped to 1300. So I backed off the TB screw. I can get it rock solid at 1000RPM idle with a 12.5 ratio (18inches vac, 2ms injector), but that's only when fully warm. Once I let it fully cool down again and try to start, it won't hold because the TB idle screw is backed off again, and I'm back to square one. Is there anyway to do this without using a BAC? My ultimate goal is to not idle pig rich and/or not idle high. I can get it to idle at 1000RPM through the entire warm up range, but it will stay very rich (low 11's at best fully warmed). Or I can get it to idle leaner, but it will be too high when warm. And if I rememdy that, it won't idle when cold. Feast or famine.
This is a weekend car, and I will probably only put 1000 miles a year on it. One would think it's not a big deal if it idles very rich, but I feel it doesn't have to be that way.
Any ideas?
I'm running an E6k. Injectors are 550/1600. I am NOT running a BAC or anything, I am barebones engine here.
My correction maps (air/fuel + ignition/coolant) are all in place, similar to the map download for 550/1600 ported + upgraded turbo. I am mostly playing with my fuel maps in the 500 and 1000rpm range. When the engine is cold (less than 90's coolant temp), it will fire up, struggle and then stall. What I do is hold the pedal gently and have it warm up that way, but it will be pig rich. Once it's warm, I can make it idle great. It used to idle low 11's when warm, so I leaned out my bars. As I leaned them out, my idle jumped to 1300. So I backed off the TB screw. I can get it rock solid at 1000RPM idle with a 12.5 ratio (18inches vac, 2ms injector), but that's only when fully warm. Once I let it fully cool down again and try to start, it won't hold because the TB idle screw is backed off again, and I'm back to square one. Is there anyway to do this without using a BAC? My ultimate goal is to not idle pig rich and/or not idle high. I can get it to idle at 1000RPM through the entire warm up range, but it will stay very rich (low 11's at best fully warmed). Or I can get it to idle leaner, but it will be too high when warm. And if I rememdy that, it won't idle when cold. Feast or famine.
This is a weekend car, and I will probably only put 1000 miles a year on it. One would think it's not a big deal if it idles very rich, but I feel it doesn't have to be that way.
Any ideas?
10-19-09, 11:07 PM
#2
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once you've set the idle HOT, the next step is the primer map and the coolant enrichment map
the primer map, is what the car starts with. once its running its using the normal "hot" idle spot on the map + the coolant enrichment map. so once its started cold, play with the coolant enrichment map. you should be able to get it to idle cold, although for the first 30 seconds or so it might be weak, depending on how cold it is
the primer map, is what the car starts with. once its running its using the normal "hot" idle spot on the map + the coolant enrichment map. so once its started cold, play with the coolant enrichment map. you should be able to get it to idle cold, although for the first 30 seconds or so it might be weak, depending on how cold it is
10-20-09, 12:33 PM
#3
The problem is though I leaned out the hot idle so much that the plates are too "closed" that it won't idle when cold. Doesn't matter how much I take out or put in on the coolant map. For now I set it back to my rich idle so I can keep the plates a little more open for cold start up. I am going to try running a BAC soon.
10-28-09, 01:58 PM
#4
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The problem is though I leaned out the hot idle so much that the plates are too "closed" that it won't idle when cold. Doesn't matter how much I take out or put in on the coolant map. For now I set it back to my rich idle so I can keep the plates a little more open for cold start up. I am going to try running a BAC soon.
generally i don't touch the throttle plates on a stock port though, i can't say never, but i try not too
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