Haltech Car still won't start ? help
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 1
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
Car still won't start ? help
I am getting 5v to the map sensor and the tps. I have 12v to the coils and the fp. Yet the car still won't start. Any ideas?
Do you have the injectors enabled?? What haltech do you have? Are you hooking it up to a laptop? Check to see if your seeing the Injector MS move. thatll tell you if the injectors are enabled. Did you check to see if your actually getting spark at the spark plug wires? what are the RPMs reading with your laptop hooked up to it?
No tach signal...on the Haltech display or the dash gauge. Disregard the dash gauge for now.
First thing to do is decide where your problem lies. At this point it could be injection, ignition, or trigger issues. Look at the trigger first.
Do you have a viable rpm reading on the laptop while cranking? Should be 200-300 rpm while cranking. If there is no reading or the reading is out of that range you have a trigger issue. Could be settings or wiring. Double check both.
If you're using a 2nd gen style CAS I like to plug in a spare CAS and spin it over by hand. Doing this allows you to actually hear the injectors cycling and the ignition firing the plugs. If you have a good tach signal but still have problems try this to see if the plugs and injectors are working.
If you have fuel and spark and the trigger signal is good check to make sure the plugs aren't fouled.
Also check to make sure the Haltech is seeing vacuum when cranking. As has been suggested already it is possible to hook the MAP sensor up to a pre-throttle body vacuum port so that the Haltech sees ambient pressure while cranking. This will quickly lead to flooding. The MAP signal should bounce to vacuum during cranking.
Check those things and get back to us. Don't panic. These things are never a smooth install the first time or two around. You'll get there. It just takes some time.
First thing to do is decide where your problem lies. At this point it could be injection, ignition, or trigger issues. Look at the trigger first.
Do you have a viable rpm reading on the laptop while cranking? Should be 200-300 rpm while cranking. If there is no reading or the reading is out of that range you have a trigger issue. Could be settings or wiring. Double check both.
If you're using a 2nd gen style CAS I like to plug in a spare CAS and spin it over by hand. Doing this allows you to actually hear the injectors cycling and the ignition firing the plugs. If you have a good tach signal but still have problems try this to see if the plugs and injectors are working.
If you have fuel and spark and the trigger signal is good check to make sure the plugs aren't fouled.
Also check to make sure the Haltech is seeing vacuum when cranking. As has been suggested already it is possible to hook the MAP sensor up to a pre-throttle body vacuum port so that the Haltech sees ambient pressure while cranking. This will quickly lead to flooding. The MAP signal should bounce to vacuum during cranking.
Check those things and get back to us. Don't panic. These things are never a smooth install the first time or two around. You'll get there. It just takes some time.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,323
Likes: 1
From: Myrtle Beach, SC
No tach signal...on the Haltech display or the dash gauge. Disregard the dash gauge for now.
First thing to do is decide where your problem lies. At this point it could be injection, ignition, or trigger issues. Look at the trigger first.
Do you have a viable rpm reading on the laptop while cranking? Should be 200-300 rpm while cranking. If there is no reading or the reading is out of that range you have a trigger issue. Could be settings or wiring. Double check both.
If you're using a 2nd gen style CAS I like to plug in a spare CAS and spin it over by hand. Doing this allows you to actually hear the injectors cycling and the ignition firing the plugs. If you have a good tach signal but still have problems try this to see if the plugs and injectors are working.
If you have fuel and spark and the trigger signal is good check to make sure the plugs aren't fouled.
Also check to make sure the Haltech is seeing vacuum when cranking. As has been suggested already it is possible to hook the MAP sensor up to a pre-throttle body vacuum port so that the Haltech sees ambient pressure while cranking. This will quickly lead to flooding. The MAP signal should bounce to vacuum during cranking.
Check those things and get back to us. Don't panic. These things are never a smooth install the first time or two around. You'll get there. It just takes some time.
First thing to do is decide where your problem lies. At this point it could be injection, ignition, or trigger issues. Look at the trigger first.
Do you have a viable rpm reading on the laptop while cranking? Should be 200-300 rpm while cranking. If there is no reading or the reading is out of that range you have a trigger issue. Could be settings or wiring. Double check both.
If you're using a 2nd gen style CAS I like to plug in a spare CAS and spin it over by hand. Doing this allows you to actually hear the injectors cycling and the ignition firing the plugs. If you have a good tach signal but still have problems try this to see if the plugs and injectors are working.
If you have fuel and spark and the trigger signal is good check to make sure the plugs aren't fouled.
Also check to make sure the Haltech is seeing vacuum when cranking. As has been suggested already it is possible to hook the MAP sensor up to a pre-throttle body vacuum port so that the Haltech sees ambient pressure while cranking. This will quickly lead to flooding. The MAP signal should bounce to vacuum during cranking.
Check those things and get back to us. Don't panic. These things are never a smooth install the first time or two around. You'll get there. It just takes some time.
I finally got it going. My switched power source was loosing power during cranking.
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