Haltech Anyone ever mess with the Flatshift/Anti Lag options? Or 2-step?
12-15-04, 12:34 PM
#1
Anyone ever mess with the Flatshift/Anti Lag options? Or 2-step?
I am interested in configuring my E6K for 2-step duties for drag racing.. I keep hearing rumors about the configurability of this, but I have yet to find it anywhere in the manual. Anyone sucessfully used any of this?
Jarrett
Jarrett
12-15-04, 06:46 PM
#2
Gone Darkside
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S E A R C H, n00B11!!!!!1!! Just kidding, Rat. 
First off, you need to look at the 3 wire harness that is near the main ECU plug. It's black, kinda looks like a flat oval. From memory, the wires are Black, Black/Orange and Orange, though perhaps not in that order.
Run the Orange and the Black/Orange wires to your switch. Now, go into your menus. I THINK it's in the Options heading. It will be on the same page where you had to set the Ignition Toggle for your Trailing setup. There will be a setting for your A/D input. Cycle through until you get to Aux Rev Limit. Now go to the setup page (Main?) where you set the Haltech's redline. There will be a line where you can set the Aux Rev Limit. Set it where you choose.
I suggest that you don't set it any lower than about 4750. I set my car at 4000, and it took forever for the car to do anything. That might have been due to the 1/2 BP, though. Heh. Your results may vary.
That should do it. I apologize for getting page names, etc wrong. I'm trying to do this from memory. If I notice a mistake, Ill come back and make an addendum.
BTW, you CAN tie your clutch switch into the mix to act as a secondary trigger if you like. If you want to do this, let me know and I'll fill you in.
First off, you need to look at the 3 wire harness that is near the main ECU plug. It's black, kinda looks like a flat oval. From memory, the wires are Black, Black/Orange and Orange, though perhaps not in that order.
Run the Orange and the Black/Orange wires to your switch. Now, go into your menus. I THINK it's in the Options heading. It will be on the same page where you had to set the Ignition Toggle for your Trailing setup. There will be a setting for your A/D input. Cycle through until you get to Aux Rev Limit. Now go to the setup page (Main?) where you set the Haltech's redline. There will be a line where you can set the Aux Rev Limit. Set it where you choose.
I suggest that you don't set it any lower than about 4750. I set my car at 4000, and it took forever for the car to do anything. That might have been due to the 1/2 BP, though. Heh. Your results may vary.
That should do it. I apologize for getting page names, etc wrong. I'm trying to do this from memory. If I notice a mistake, Ill come back and make an addendum.
BTW, you CAN tie your clutch switch into the mix to act as a secondary trigger if you like. If you want to do this, let me know and I'll fill you in.
12-16-04, 02:48 AM
#3
Reese,
Thanks for answering, believe it or not, you just cleared some things up.
Did you just toggle off the Aux rev at the green? I think that tying it into a clutch switch would be a bit easier, dont you?
Since ive got you, there was a section in the manual saying that you should use 2 MAPS. A one bar map for BARO, and of course the 3 bar map for boost/etc..
You run in this configuration?
And when it comes to Haltechs.. I AM A NOOB!!!
Thanks for answering, believe it or not, you just cleared some things up.
Did you just toggle off the Aux rev at the green? I think that tying it into a clutch switch would be a bit easier, dont you?
Since ive got you, there was a section in the manual saying that you should use 2 MAPS. A one bar map for BARO, and of course the 3 bar map for boost/etc..
You run in this configuration?
And when it comes to Haltechs.. I AM A NOOB!!!
Last edited by J-Rat; 12-16-04 at 02:54 AM.
12-16-04, 06:38 PM
#5
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J,
you're welcome.
As far as setting the switch up, I prefer having it tied to the clutch as well. That way, you're not going to bounce off the limiter after you launch. I believe that Tony Farkas would launch, and as he was reaching for the shift, he'd flip the switch off, or something like that. Too many things for me to be thinking about! LOL.
As for the 2 MAPS thing, there is no need for anything like that. You simply set up ONE map. I'm assuming that you have the 3 Bar MAP sensor? If so, it will read any range that you're going to be running. If you're talking about Barometric Compensation, I have always had mine turned off. If I remember correctly, that is to help adjust the maps based on weather, altitude, etc. I don't believe there is any reason for you to bother with it.
Most likely, your map is set up staged, like the stock setup. i.e. your primaries are handling the non-boost portion of your map, and once you move up into boost, the secondaries come online as well, which is seen on your map where the vertical dotted line is. If you'll notice, the bars all drop a fair amount immediately after that point. This is because the bars represent the duration the injectors will be firing. Since you have 4 firing once you're in boost, the ms time is greatly reduced.
Hope this helps. Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Jreynish,
That imput can be used for a number of things that may or may not be useful to your configuration.
Things like using a potentiometer to control Ignition advance, or boost level if you've set up for that, etc. Here's the link to the manual. there is a section on Inputs and Outputs that will show you your options better. http://haltech.com/downloads/e6kv9man.pdf
Reese
you're welcome.
As far as setting the switch up, I prefer having it tied to the clutch as well. That way, you're not going to bounce off the limiter after you launch. I believe that Tony Farkas would launch, and as he was reaching for the shift, he'd flip the switch off, or something like that. Too many things for me to be thinking about! LOL.
As for the 2 MAPS thing, there is no need for anything like that. You simply set up ONE map. I'm assuming that you have the 3 Bar MAP sensor? If so, it will read any range that you're going to be running. If you're talking about Barometric Compensation, I have always had mine turned off. If I remember correctly, that is to help adjust the maps based on weather, altitude, etc. I don't believe there is any reason for you to bother with it.
Most likely, your map is set up staged, like the stock setup. i.e. your primaries are handling the non-boost portion of your map, and once you move up into boost, the secondaries come online as well, which is seen on your map where the vertical dotted line is. If you'll notice, the bars all drop a fair amount immediately after that point. This is because the bars represent the duration the injectors will be firing. Since you have 4 firing once you're in boost, the ms time is greatly reduced.
Hope this helps. Let me know if I can be of any more help.
Jreynish,
That imput can be used for a number of things that may or may not be useful to your configuration.
Things like using a potentiometer to control Ignition advance, or boost level if you've set up for that, etc. Here's the link to the manual. there is a section on Inputs and Outputs that will show you your options better. http://haltech.com/downloads/e6kv9man.pdfReese
12-17-04, 01:48 AM
#6
Originally Posted by NOTA944
J,
you're welcome.
As for the 2 MAPS thing, there is no need for anything like that. You simply set up ONE map. I'm assuming that you have the 3 Bar MAP sensor? If so, it will read any range that you're going to be running. If you're talking about Barometric Compensation, I have always had mine turned off. If I remember correctly, that is to help adjust the maps based on weather, altitude, etc. I don't believe there is any reason for you to bother with it.
you're welcome.
As for the 2 MAPS thing, there is no need for anything like that. You simply set up ONE map. I'm assuming that you have the 3 Bar MAP sensor? If so, it will read any range that you're going to be running. If you're talking about Barometric Compensation, I have always had mine turned off. If I remember correctly, that is to help adjust the maps based on weather, altitude, etc. I don't believe there is any reason for you to bother with it.
Bingo! Thats what I was talking about. In the manual it specifically says NOT to turn the Barometric Compensation off, unless your like an expert tuner or something. I take it this is not the case..
Anyways, good times! Thanks for your help Reese. I need to get you on AIM or MSM or something..
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