Zj - 11.0 is too rich for idle. also, if it's a consistant "minute", before the rpm raises and then shakes, tweak your fuel correction post start map...which is probably set for 60 sec.

Also, I just cleaned the GNDs for the Haltech (E6X - has two off the ECU side of the harness, which are grounded to two different positions.) I have no GND points near the coils.

 

the haltech ground is grounded to the passenger fender and is a clean metal to metal connection and the car is doing this well past the correction maps it seems. I'm using the stock TPS (was told you could and then told by others you cannot) so I'm in the process of fabbing up a bracket to put the haltech sensor in because it just seems silly not to at this point. I'll be back to say if this makes any difference.

 

tps won't affect the idle. it's mostly for throttle pumps, closed loop, and decel fuel cut

 

I am also using standard Hitman maps and not getting mine to start I suspect they are the coils, I will test those next time I get to my car, however could it be the maps for hitmans E6K aren't working while transfering to the E6X?
GUITARJINKIE28 what map are you using your own?

 

Hitmans maps require you to have ignition division by set to 2, not 1. Make sure of that if you are using his or RETed's maps.

 

i've got a k...

the one in question was the hitman k base map, reconfigured and working in ryan's car, then transferred to this one.

just a thought for the rest of you guys--are you using the windows software? i didnt' see any way to turn motronic mode off with it. try booting up the dos software and under the ignition setup, you can turn it off. that's what we had to do with ryan's car initially.

 

yes but would i need to do that if it read rpm accurately?
the rpm reading on the haltech is about 280rpm... and on the tack every so often it bounces to about 50.

 

other than try changing plug wires and all the shielding/grounding stuff, i'm kinda at a loss.

 

I tried grounding everythnig I may just try new wires and new coils... and stuff!
what would shielding have to do with stuff? like what would I need to sheild? I mean the only thing that I can think of would be the wires going to the lead/trail coil. packs.
But I will be more than willing to go and give it a shot!
Also I will order new plugs and wires again.
Jeffrey

 

You need to shield the wire coming from the CAS... shielding on the wires to the coil packs is not important as they carry a much higher level signal. The CAS on the other hand is a low level signal and easily gets interference if not properly shielded. ONLY GROUND THE SHIELD AT ONE END!!! In other words, if the shield is grounded at the haltech, don't ground it at the CAS. If the shield is not grounded at the haltech, DO ground it at the CAS.

 

The cas Wiring is already sheilded.
So this should not be a problem.

 

emphasise "should not"

 

I am seriously debating going back to microtech, or to autronic! I KNOW this system works as I installed one on my freinds turbo civic that I built, and it runs with my E6X and with his... I have no idea what the hell is going on... see the thing is the car ran before I sent my Haltech to Aus for repair, and now using the same map it doesn't work! so I have no idea what the hell the problem is!

 

check this out...
danny called me up and said the car was doing it again, so i had him bring it over. i grabbed the crank sensor wire and held it close to the spark plug wires and the thing bucked and missed like a sunnabitch!!

when i held the wire away from the plug wires, it ran ****!! tied it way up out of the way and it's all good.

try playing with it like that and see if it works.

 

is yours shielded?

 

the way it came from haltech--they say it's shielded on the ecu side

 

Does the shield extend all the way to the connector? Now, the shield that comes with the stock haltech cable isn't great, I'll say that. Its a full coverage foil shield which is nice but its thin, and the wires aren't twisted to help reduce noise pickup. So the length of unshielded wire left at the end is critical to the shielding equation. You want as little as possible. I have about 3" unshielded max... including the wire from the CAS itself, and I'm still getting breakup about 7k. I am going to extend the shield and see if that does any better for me. Your problem might be related. Also, tie the wire as far away and around the edge of the block from the spark plugs and plug wires as possible. Those things radiate HF like nobody's business.

 

Ok, did you make your own shielding or did you buy some... I bought the one where it slips through and it goes right from the connector to back to where I have the haltech harness split into three, right where the relays are. Would this do?

 

It needs to go all the way to the haltech IMO. What kind of shielding is it, braided or foil, and is it 100% coverage? If its a foil shield, 100% coverage, then you should be cool. Make sure it is grounded *only* at one point (it will need further external insulation so that it doesn't short out by touching various bits of engine metal on its run to the CAS) or its useless.

 

It is grounded at the cas-end, and it is a foil.

 

My car is still shaking a bunch even after I ran a new casing around the CAS wires (a solid copper pipe grounded by a 10 guage wire around a regular shielded wire going from the CAS to the back of the block where there is no more major interference). The timing has been zeroed, the fuel wiring is fine, the ignition is firing and this is all on a hitman map. It doesn't shake very much at about 1k, shakes a ton at about 1500-2k and then tapers off to a little less beyond that. I'm getting fuel to front and back and the wideband is reading around 12 when it's idling and when I lean it down to about 14.7, it comes near sputtering out. I've checked all of the wiring but have not redone the wires that was in the adapter harness for the coils since it is getting a firing signal. I have no clue why I'd be running so pig rich and if that's related or what. Anyone have suggestions now?

 

12 is normal for idle.

the n/a's and 3rd gen motors tend to be able to run a tad leaner @ idle---i think because the primary ports have a little bit less overlap.

anyway, you should be able to get the afr's in the high 14/low 15 range by the time you get to 2500-3k rpm. also, you'll be able to run a bit leaner under cruise conditions where there's a little less vacuum. ***note*** not heavy load, but more like the 10-15" range is about where i get mine to run the leanest.

 

Well hell, it seems to be working consistently and about right so lets move along with the problem to a possible mechanical one?

The engine is a j-spec pushing 105 psi per face front and rear rotor from the looks of it (piston checker no valve, I've heard this is good compression). The vibration comes when I free rev the car so we can eliminate the drive shaft back. I was under the car and it didn't look like the tranny mounts were bad. One engine mount was bad so I replaced it and I also checked the other one shortly after to make sure nothing odd happened and caused the other one to break just to be 100%. Here is where some concern comes in. The flywheel was bought from a local guy who was going to use it in his car after he bought it from someone else in the club and he decided not to. I believe it's using a counter weight from racing beat but the flywheel however, does not appear to be your normal racing beat one. The flywheel and counter weight bolted together correctly and fit into place without any trouble on the car and the pressure plate bolts lined up though they were a different thread pitch. The car has a ACT full disk with the middle stage pressure plate. The enguagement and disengaugement of the clutch seems to be fine. The pressure plate was resurfaced with the factory step height before it went in and has a machined surface that meets up to the counter weight and they are mated together well. Could this be the cause of the problem? Like I said, it seems to be better at around 1100 rpms and a hell of a lot worse a couple hundred rpms higher.

 

Its entirely possible you have the wrong counterweight for the rotors you are using. What weight / compression / series rotors are you running? If you are running an aftermarket flywheel the flywheel must be perfectly balanced (equal all around) and the counterweight should be the one for the rotors you are using. If either of those conditions are not met (e.g. the flywheel was machined to fit the counterweight in such a way that imbalances the flywheel or the counterweight does not go with the rotors) then you need to take care of that. I have no idea how to identify the counterweight, so I'll leave that up to more experienced gurus, I just know that the counterweight and rotors MUST match exactly or you get something similar. Just a thought.

 

Why do you need a counterweight that matches the rotors? I was under the impression that the engine was counterweighted already? If there is just a counter weight in the front and then the flywheel counterweight in the back, this would make some sense I suppose. The car has a J-spec out of a s4 so everything should be a series 4. I'm going to check the tranny mounts today before I go back down to school and eliminate that. I guess I'll just need to come back next weekend and pull the engine (got a few leaks I would like to tackle with the engine out) and take the wheel somewhere for a balancing.