1985 13B stand alone conversion tips
1985 13B stand alone conversion tips
Hello world, new to the club here. Looking for some inside for installing a stand alone ECU in my 1985 GSL-SE. Is it possible to replace my distributor with a CAS? Are they direct replacements? I'm looking to remove all the emissions equipment & run it on either a Haltec or any other suggestions. Any input is appreciated, that you kindly
I am no expert, but my understanding is that yes, you will swap the OEM distributor for an OEM CAS. If you purchase the device from a reputable shop that will help/guide you through the installation and base map, your conversion should be straightforward and fairly easy. I've had great experiences with Chris Ludwig on this forum.
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
the FC CAS drops right in, you are on your own for coils, and the wiring for those coils. cheapest setup is probably the FC coils. best budget setup is the FC coils with a Subaru ignitor (see 'the coil thread'). the Rx8 coils are probably a good choice too, they may not be the most reliable thing in the world, but they also put out a lot of spark energy at short charge times.
its also possible to put the fuel side of the haltech in, and tune that, and then switch ignition. it seems like a waste, but it removes some variables from the tuning, so the tuning will go faster. don't forget the ECU has like 4 tables that have 1068 cells, plus a bunch of other things, cutting that in half, at first, helps a lot.
its also possible to put the fuel side of the haltech in, and tune that, and then switch ignition. it seems like a waste, but it removes some variables from the tuning, so the tuning will go faster. don't forget the ECU has like 4 tables that have 1068 cells, plus a bunch of other things, cutting that in half, at first, helps a lot.
Haltech will do everything you need it to do. Which Haltech you get depends on what additional functions you need it to do (eg thermo fans, A/C control, power steering control etc). If you're going to run the 6 port 13B naturally aspirated, as per factory you'd probably get away with a Haltech Elite 550. However, if you want engine protection (recommended), you can step up to the Haltech Elite 1000 or 1500, which will also give you many more additional inputs and outputs.
Also consider Link G4+ ECUs. The Atom or Monsoon are the entry level ECUs, while the Xtreme or Fury are around the same price point as the Haltech 1000/1500 but have way more features and configurability than Haltech at the same price point, although I personally find the Haltech software is a more intuitive and user-friendly.
If you're going to get someone else to tune, get an ECU they are happy to tune and familiar with.
Also consider Link G4+ ECUs. The Atom or Monsoon are the entry level ECUs, while the Xtreme or Fury are around the same price point as the Haltech 1000/1500 but have way more features and configurability than Haltech at the same price point, although I personally find the Haltech software is a more intuitive and user-friendly.
If you're going to get someone else to tune, get an ECU they are happy to tune and familiar with.
the FC CAS drops right in, you are on your own for coils, and the wiring for those coils. cheapest setup is probably the FC coils. best budget setup is the FC coils with a Subaru ignitor (see 'the coil thread'). the Rx8 coils are probably a good choice too, they may not be the most reliable thing in the world, but they also put out a lot of spark energy at short charge times.
its also possible to put the fuel side of the haltech in, and tune that, and then switch ignition. it seems like a waste, but it removes some variables from the tuning, so the tuning will go faster. don't forget the ECU has like 4 tables that have 1068 cells, plus a bunch of other things, cutting that in half, at first, helps a lot.
its also possible to put the fuel side of the haltech in, and tune that, and then switch ignition. it seems like a waste, but it removes some variables from the tuning, so the tuning will go faster. don't forget the ECU has like 4 tables that have 1068 cells, plus a bunch of other things, cutting that in half, at first, helps a lot.
Another option on the coils is to use an OEM FC3s trailing coil on a LEADING igniter. Everything bolts in, is cheap, and there are plenty of them. The MAJOR drawback is the sheer size, finding a space to put all 4 of them if wanting to run direct fire is a PITA. I ran this setup at 16psi on a 10.6 - 11.0 afr (as measured by my old PLX AFR wideband). This setup was not my idea, I read about it from another member in the drag racing forum.
My name is Chris and i just bought my first car and i decided to go with an rx7 because ive always wanted one since i was a kid and loved the way they sounded and felt. I just want to learn more about rotaries in general so everythings appreciated and if i sound dumb in a reply its because i most likely dont know what im talking about lol. The guy i bought it from said its a 6 port and i know what that means im just not sure what
parts i need to get for anything. I want to get an ecu for when i get my car road ready in a couple weeks. I can give more details about the car if i need to i dont know alot more about it yet but thats why i came here and asked you guys.
parts i need to get for anything. I want to get an ecu for when i get my car road ready in a couple weeks. I can give more details about the car if i need to i dont know alot more about it yet but thats why i came here and asked you guys.
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