Widefoot Sway-bar mounts
A message (and apolagy) from Widefoot Racing
Hi all,
This is a "tl;dr" message, but please, read the whole thing if you're part of the Widefoot
Group Buy.
There's an old saying: "When in a hole, stop digging". I wish I'd have followed that advice,
but instead I just found a bigger shovel. So now I find myself needing to apologize for the extreme
tardiness in delivering the Widefoot products that I'd originally promised during the March 2014
Group Buy started by Blackadde///.
I've been reminded, most considerately I'll add, by RX7Club staffers that I have a responsibility to
uphold, and they're quite right. I have one project I must finish that dates back before the GB,
I hope it will be done by the end of October. Once it's finished, or at least stable, I will resume the
manufacturing of the bronze bushing mounts that have been so delayed.
There was at least one update on the thread where I explained what issues had distracted me, and
while there's much more I could say, the Web isn't the best place to confess all. So I'll beg your
understanding that there was never any malice or bad intent in my delays, just circumstances,
poor planning, and then (embarrassed) avoidance.
As a tangible expression of regret, I will be offering a partial refund of whatever deposit that was
sent to me at the beginning of the GB, or a full refund with interest if that's desired:
1) Full refund of your payment (deposit or total), plus 20% for fees and lost interest, paid this month.
2) 25% refund of the original payment when your parts ship (this year). The refund reflects the
delay, and also a small downspec; where I'd hoped to have relube-in-place for the bronze bushings,
they will now require minor disassembly to do the cleaning and re-greasing, something that must
be done to maintain performance and reliability with any bronze bushing setup.
I know this can't make up for the frustration of my delay, and there's not much I can do about the
reputation damage I've done to myself. I hope that the Widefoot parts themselves will bring satisfaction
in their use, as they have before this mess.
Please email me at my widefoot address if you have any questions [comcast period net], and let me
know your preference. I will also monitor the main thread, but it's faster to email me. It would also be
a great help to make sure I have your current email and shipping address, as it's been long enough that
some folks may have moved. If your email address or Forum name did change from when you placed
an order please send the original information too so I can confirm whatever payments you made.
Thanks,
David
This is a "tl;dr" message, but please, read the whole thing if you're part of the Widefoot
Group Buy.
There's an old saying: "When in a hole, stop digging". I wish I'd have followed that advice,
but instead I just found a bigger shovel. So now I find myself needing to apologize for the extreme
tardiness in delivering the Widefoot products that I'd originally promised during the March 2014
Group Buy started by Blackadde///.
I've been reminded, most considerately I'll add, by RX7Club staffers that I have a responsibility to
uphold, and they're quite right. I have one project I must finish that dates back before the GB,
I hope it will be done by the end of October. Once it's finished, or at least stable, I will resume the
manufacturing of the bronze bushing mounts that have been so delayed.
There was at least one update on the thread where I explained what issues had distracted me, and
while there's much more I could say, the Web isn't the best place to confess all. So I'll beg your
understanding that there was never any malice or bad intent in my delays, just circumstances,
poor planning, and then (embarrassed) avoidance.
As a tangible expression of regret, I will be offering a partial refund of whatever deposit that was
sent to me at the beginning of the GB, or a full refund with interest if that's desired:
1) Full refund of your payment (deposit or total), plus 20% for fees and lost interest, paid this month.
2) 25% refund of the original payment when your parts ship (this year). The refund reflects the
delay, and also a small downspec; where I'd hoped to have relube-in-place for the bronze bushings,
they will now require minor disassembly to do the cleaning and re-greasing, something that must
be done to maintain performance and reliability with any bronze bushing setup.
I know this can't make up for the frustration of my delay, and there's not much I can do about the
reputation damage I've done to myself. I hope that the Widefoot parts themselves will bring satisfaction
in their use, as they have before this mess.
Please email me at my widefoot address if you have any questions [comcast period net], and let me
know your preference. I will also monitor the main thread, but it's faster to email me. It would also be
a great help to make sure I have your current email and shipping address, as it's been long enough that
some folks may have moved. If your email address or Forum name did change from when you placed
an order please send the original information too so I can confirm whatever payments you made.
Thanks,
David
Getting close!
Hi all,
Happy Thanksgiving to the US folks, and happy "another day on Earth" to the rest of you. I wanted to update the timeline for the Widefoot mounts, as the (very!) long term project I've been working on is coming to an end, or at least a pause. At that point I will immediately transition to completing the outstanding parts needed for the new bronze mounts, and get in touch with people about shipping and other details.
News and some manufacturing pics as I make progress...
Thanks,
David
Happy Thanksgiving to the US folks, and happy "another day on Earth" to the rest of you. I wanted to update the timeline for the Widefoot mounts, as the (very!) long term project I've been working on is coming to an end, or at least a pause. At that point I will immediately transition to completing the outstanding parts needed for the new bronze mounts, and get in touch with people about shipping and other details.
News and some manufacturing pics as I make progress...
Thanks,
David
I have gone through this entire thread and understand many people's frustration. To those that might be in the know, does anyone have the instructions for installation handy? I can't seem to find them anywhere, it's something of a closely guarded secret.
I have a set of mounts I bought second-hand but can't seem to install them...
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Nick
I have a set of mounts I bought second-hand but can't seem to install them...
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!
Nick
Widefoot Swaybar Mount Installation Instructions
I strongly recommend following basic safety rules such as wearing safety glasses when
working underneath a car, using jackstands, etc. Having another person around while you're
working is always a good idea in case of emergencies.
If you have any doubts about performing this work, please have a trained professional do
the installation.
The car should be jacked up and supported with stands on the main side rails, behind the
wheel well. Remove the belly pan and spoiler. There are a few phillips screw drive body
plugs that hold the belly pan, and these can be a bit of a pain to remove. Careful use of a
narrow flat blade screwdriver can help pry these out, after unscrewing the central screw.
Use some wire or heavy string to support the center of the swaybar, and remove the four
8mm bolts that clamp the swaybar bushings to the mounts. The stock passenger side swaybar
mount has a 6mm stud on it for clamping one end of the power steering cooling loop, remove
its nut.
Remove the four 10mm mounting bolts from the stock swaybar mounts, and *carefully*
check the mounting face of the frame rail for damage. Use a flashlight and a small scraping
tool to check for cracks, especially around the 10mm threaded holes. I've seen cracks here
due to excessive flexing of the stock mount.
>>If any damage is present, contact Widefoot about repair procedures<<
The Widefoot Swaybar Mount (WSM) should not be used with damaged rails *until* the rail is
repaired properly. While the WSM will help prevent future damage, existing cracks could
grow.
If the rails are O-K, also check the frame rail flange that's next to the mounts. The area
right around where the WSM goes should be straight and undamaged, and loose undercoating
removed. This will be the clamping surface for the WSM built-in brace. I recommend
using a zinc-rich primer to treat all exposed metal surfaces before attaching the new mounts.
Remove the three 1/4-28 screws from each of the mounts, but note the orientation of the clamp
plate - this is how it will fit on the car.
Take the supplied 10mm socket bolts and hardened 10mm washers, and use a small amount
of low or medium strength locking compound on the threads. Loosely bolt the mounts to the
frame rails, snugging the 10mm bolts to finger tight. These bolts use a 8mm hex key, it's
most convenient if you use a ratchet-type driver.
Take the 1/4-28 screws, and put a thin coat of copper or nickel based anti-seize on the
threads. Do not use locking compounds on helical insert threads, the compound may cause the
insert to unwind from its location during removal. Place the clamp pad, which goes to the outside
of the frame rail, such that the tapered end goes against the frame rail flange, and the wider section
against the WSM (located as shipped). Install the three 1/4-28 screws. As the three screws are
tightened, the flange is sandwiched between the new swaybar mount and the clamp.
The shorter projecting part of the clamp pad should now be resting against the fulcrum rib on
the WSM. Tighten the 1/4-28 screws finger tight, then do the same to the 10mm bolts. Tighten
the clamps screws to ~2 ft/lbs, then tighten the 10mm bolts to 5ft/lbs. Tighten the 1/4-28 screws
to 5 ft/lbs, then tighten the 10mm bolts to 10 ft/lbs.
At this point you can fully tighten the 1/4-28 screws, to a max of 8 ft/lbs. If you want to go
higher, you can swap the stainless screws for a quality alloy steel, but you shouldn't go over
11 ft/lbs. Now fully tighten the 10mm bolts to the stock torque specs (29 - 37 ft-lbs).
What you're trying to do is "nestle" the mount into the corner formed by the lower surface of
the frame rail and the flange. You don't have to go in this exact order, just make sure that both
surfaces are fully seated before doing any final tightening of the fasteners. Failing to do this can
put extra stress on the rails and mounts, and lessens the effectiveness of the WSM.
The clamp adds a small additional retention force (the two 10mm bolts do the most), but more
importantly it creates a strong resistance to "tipping" left-to-right, along the rotational axis of the
two 10mm bolts. It's this uncontrolled tipping that causes the failure of the stock mounts and
of the frame rail.
The two radiator support plates go up against the bottom of the WSM. Push the swaybar up
against the plates, and attach the stock bushing clamps with the four 8 x 25mm bolts, and loosely
tighten them. In some cases or when omitting the radiator support plates the supplied screws
may not be the correct length, you want to ensure that in no case can the screws "bottom out"
inside the mount before being fully tight, or have less than 12mm of thread engagement with the
inserts inside the mount body.
You should be able to adjust the radiator to the stock location, with the two rubber feet seated
in the holes. I recommend applying some RTV silicone around the feet and the mounting plate,
to help support the radiator and prevent squeaks. The radiator stays in the same location with
the current brackets, but I can make custom mounting plates to reposition it (within reason).
When the radiator support plates, swaybar clamps, and bushings are all properly adjusted,
tighten the 8mm bolts to factory specs (14 - 19 ft-lbs). The power steering loop is not tied down
with these mounts, and should be stable enough on it's own. If you want, you can zip tie or Adel
clamp it to a convenient part of the car.
Double check all fasteners, and replace the belly pan and spoiler.
I strongly recommend following basic safety rules such as wearing safety glasses when
working underneath a car, using jackstands, etc. Having another person around while you're
working is always a good idea in case of emergencies.
If you have any doubts about performing this work, please have a trained professional do
the installation.
The car should be jacked up and supported with stands on the main side rails, behind the
wheel well. Remove the belly pan and spoiler. There are a few phillips screw drive body
plugs that hold the belly pan, and these can be a bit of a pain to remove. Careful use of a
narrow flat blade screwdriver can help pry these out, after unscrewing the central screw.
Use some wire or heavy string to support the center of the swaybar, and remove the four
8mm bolts that clamp the swaybar bushings to the mounts. The stock passenger side swaybar
mount has a 6mm stud on it for clamping one end of the power steering cooling loop, remove
its nut.
Remove the four 10mm mounting bolts from the stock swaybar mounts, and *carefully*
check the mounting face of the frame rail for damage. Use a flashlight and a small scraping
tool to check for cracks, especially around the 10mm threaded holes. I've seen cracks here
due to excessive flexing of the stock mount.
>>If any damage is present, contact Widefoot about repair procedures<<
The Widefoot Swaybar Mount (WSM) should not be used with damaged rails *until* the rail is
repaired properly. While the WSM will help prevent future damage, existing cracks could
grow.
If the rails are O-K, also check the frame rail flange that's next to the mounts. The area
right around where the WSM goes should be straight and undamaged, and loose undercoating
removed. This will be the clamping surface for the WSM built-in brace. I recommend
using a zinc-rich primer to treat all exposed metal surfaces before attaching the new mounts.
Remove the three 1/4-28 screws from each of the mounts, but note the orientation of the clamp
plate - this is how it will fit on the car.
Take the supplied 10mm socket bolts and hardened 10mm washers, and use a small amount
of low or medium strength locking compound on the threads. Loosely bolt the mounts to the
frame rails, snugging the 10mm bolts to finger tight. These bolts use a 8mm hex key, it's
most convenient if you use a ratchet-type driver.
Take the 1/4-28 screws, and put a thin coat of copper or nickel based anti-seize on the
threads. Do not use locking compounds on helical insert threads, the compound may cause the
insert to unwind from its location during removal. Place the clamp pad, which goes to the outside
of the frame rail, such that the tapered end goes against the frame rail flange, and the wider section
against the WSM (located as shipped). Install the three 1/4-28 screws. As the three screws are
tightened, the flange is sandwiched between the new swaybar mount and the clamp.
The shorter projecting part of the clamp pad should now be resting against the fulcrum rib on
the WSM. Tighten the 1/4-28 screws finger tight, then do the same to the 10mm bolts. Tighten
the clamps screws to ~2 ft/lbs, then tighten the 10mm bolts to 5ft/lbs. Tighten the 1/4-28 screws
to 5 ft/lbs, then tighten the 10mm bolts to 10 ft/lbs.
At this point you can fully tighten the 1/4-28 screws, to a max of 8 ft/lbs. If you want to go
higher, you can swap the stainless screws for a quality alloy steel, but you shouldn't go over
11 ft/lbs. Now fully tighten the 10mm bolts to the stock torque specs (29 - 37 ft-lbs).
What you're trying to do is "nestle" the mount into the corner formed by the lower surface of
the frame rail and the flange. You don't have to go in this exact order, just make sure that both
surfaces are fully seated before doing any final tightening of the fasteners. Failing to do this can
put extra stress on the rails and mounts, and lessens the effectiveness of the WSM.
The clamp adds a small additional retention force (the two 10mm bolts do the most), but more
importantly it creates a strong resistance to "tipping" left-to-right, along the rotational axis of the
two 10mm bolts. It's this uncontrolled tipping that causes the failure of the stock mounts and
of the frame rail.
The two radiator support plates go up against the bottom of the WSM. Push the swaybar up
against the plates, and attach the stock bushing clamps with the four 8 x 25mm bolts, and loosely
tighten them. In some cases or when omitting the radiator support plates the supplied screws
may not be the correct length, you want to ensure that in no case can the screws "bottom out"
inside the mount before being fully tight, or have less than 12mm of thread engagement with the
inserts inside the mount body.
You should be able to adjust the radiator to the stock location, with the two rubber feet seated
in the holes. I recommend applying some RTV silicone around the feet and the mounting plate,
to help support the radiator and prevent squeaks. The radiator stays in the same location with
the current brackets, but I can make custom mounting plates to reposition it (within reason).
When the radiator support plates, swaybar clamps, and bushings are all properly adjusted,
tighten the 8mm bolts to factory specs (14 - 19 ft-lbs). The power steering loop is not tied down
with these mounts, and should be stable enough on it's own. If you want, you can zip tie or Adel
clamp it to a convenient part of the car.
Double check all fasteners, and replace the belly pan and spoiler.
You're the man! Thank you.
Also a shout out to David, who replied to my email and helped me find a missing bolt online also.
I skimmed through this thread looking for help installing them. For what it's worth, he was very helpful and fast to respond. Hope it all works out with the GB.
Nick
Also a shout out to David, who replied to my email and helped me find a missing bolt online also.
I skimmed through this thread looking for help installing them. For what it's worth, he was very helpful and fast to respond. Hope it all works out with the GB.
Nick
You're the man! Thank you.
Also a shout out to David, who replied to my email and helped me find a missing bolt online also.
I skimmed through this thread looking for help installing them. For what it's worth, he was very helpful and fast to respond. Hope it all works out with the GB.
Nick
Also a shout out to David, who replied to my email and helped me find a missing bolt online also.
I skimmed through this thread looking for help installing them. For what it's worth, he was very helpful and fast to respond. Hope it all works out with the GB.
Nick
Shoot us an email... our mounts are essentially an upgraded version of the widefoot mounts. We'll help out anyone that purchased but did not receive their Widefoot mounts. Email info@sakebombgarage.com with some sort of proof you paid... we'll offer discounted sets to anyone in this boat to help offset the loss.
__________________
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
SAKEBOMB GARAGE LLC
www.SAKEBOMBGARAGE.com
Specialty aftermarket parts & service // Fremont, California
Contact: info@sakebombgarage.com
