I can't upload a larger version, you could printscreen and then zoom in. but not sure if you'd be able to read it.

But if you look at the red box i highlighted in the middle, the yellow is high beam, blue is low beam, and then coming out of the bottom of each headlight is the ground.

In the red box you can see:
1 - the flash to pass on the far left - this will only give the highs power when you push the combo switch on the steering wheel (forward I believe)
2 - next is a signal to the relay to turn on/off the lights.
3 - then the yellow (power for both high and low) is power from the relay that is switched on with the signal from 2. above, this is the source for the high and low beams.
4 - TNS has to do with breaks and signals.

-So the relay always has a power source.

-Turn the combo switch (steering wheel switch) on, this sends a signal to the relay (point 2 above)

-The position of the combo switch lets power go from the relay to either high or low beam (point 3 above)

-If the high beam is selected, power continues through the yellow section, and also the blue high beam light in the dash

- If the low beam is selected, power from the yellow wire in the combo switch is switched to the blue wire for low beams.

So I'm not sure how the low beam power would ever contribute to powering the high beam.



I think the first pic you posted, of how the stock dual filament lights work is incorrect. I bet the high beam filament is connected to the high beam terminal only, and the low beam filament is connected to both high and low beam terminals. This would allow both filaments to be on when high is selected, and only the low beam when low is selected. (now that I think about it, is this even possible? the filament is just a wire, so i guess both would always be on)


Sorry to mess up your thread, I guess I should have started my own, I guess I owe you a ton of pics haha.

 

its not really thread jacking cuz these are things ill need to take into consideration, so it cool.

i will go over what the schematic again. but one question is the stock wiring still on urs with a wiring harness, or directly spliced into the wiring?

if its stock with an adapter get a stock bulb and plug it in. then have some one turn on the low beam and turn it off (dont look at the bulb when its on), check if it is still glowing. repeat with high beam. my high beam both filaments glow, low is just the top filament.

 

i think these next 2 pics are accurate when compared to the schematic, i color coded according to it as well.

the schematic shows that the blue and yellow share a power wire that switches between high and low highlighted in green.



i feel these pics are accurate because since they share a power wire where only one is connected at a time.

 

I'm not running an adapter, i'm plugging straight into the connectors shown on the bottom right of the wiring diagram, one wire goes into each female terminal - ground, low, high.

Your last diagram doesn't quite make sense, because if your low was on, the high would get power too.

 

thats what i thought at first, but i realized that there is not a complete circuit on the high side, therefore the electrons have nowhere to travel. the high would light if the circuit was completed or grounded. but b/c the low and high are part of the same circuit when the power comes through the high filament but not when the power comes through the low filament.

 

Oh I see, I wasn't paying attention to where you have the ground going, now it makes sense. But even if I re-arrange my wiring to make it look like that, my high beam will still only be receiving the same power as its currently getting.

Unless...
I wire it opposite of what you have there, that way my HID Ballast supplies power to the low, when I turn the high on, power goes through the low to the high. possible problem...will the Ballast burn out the non HID H3 bulbs?

 

Scratch that, I can't reverse it, or else my high beam will always be on. Its ok if the low beam is always on, but not if the high beam is.

So now we're back to the problem of not enough power to the high beam.

 

i was merely trying to figure out how the wiring worked, and if we could solve ur prob at the same time it was a bonus. do this, plug one low beam hid into the high slot (ballast and hid bulb) and compare the one on the high side and the one on the low and see how bright the low is when it has the high beams power supply. if the light output is the same or close, u may want to try hid highs and lows.

 

any luck with pics, or getting ur lights to work?

 

im am so down for a set of these it aint even funny lol

 

good, gimme a little while. hopefully i will have a mock up in around 6 months.

sorry for the delay, i had a minor set back, my 7 caught fire, and that's what i was using to make them. it will be a little while before i am able to get an other one.

 

any other opinions?

 

I would start with the old rotary extreme kit and work off of it. It fits well and uses 90mm projectors. The brackets it comes with are cheap and flimsy and the housing leave the bolts/brackets exposed.

Ditch the led strip imo. It looks cool on audi's, but screams rice when added on.

 

i thought about starting withe those as a base, but there is a good size border all the way around where the lens and housing meet. and i am leaning away from the leds but i will see.

thanx for the input, keep it coming

 

anything else. i can plan while i search out my next 7

 

any sketches for the actual design look?

 

i will try to start working on a mock up tonight

 

i will be making some changes to the above design but that should be an idea

 

Chudsoncoupe, did u ever have any luck with your lighting?

 

i am exploring several options in my journey to make a better sleek kit. one of which is using the evo r projectors. does any one have pictures of the rvo r projector's cut off? and over all lighting?

also one route i will explore (the more promising one) will be using the projectors/reflectors out of another car. that way even thought the lights themselves are not DOT, the lights will be out of a DOT headlight. this way it will have the correct patterns.

my objective in this project is to offer a sleek kit with great fitment, great lighting quality and a great price (as well as looking good).

 

Look at any of these:

http://www.rallylights.com/SearchRes...CategoryID=359

They are headlamp modules and are all SAE/DOT legal. Great light output also.

 

thanks, i have been checking that site out for a while. the problem is that they are very expensive, and i need my kit to be reasonable. i want them to be affordable for everyone (well, most everyone).

 

any updates?

 

i have my first model done, however i am not entirely happy with everything. but i have been going back and forth with david hayes, and i think i have an idea that sounded good to both of us.

also i have decided to go with the hella lights because they are the only SAE/DOT approved lights. so unlike the rest of the sleek kits it will have great lighting and be legal for road use.

the lighting will be similar to that of david hayes kit. i will offer 2 lighting options HID and halogen. the HID option will carry a heavier price tag because of the HID unit, but the halogen units still offer lighting far superior to that of the stock lights.

i have hit a minor financial speed bump. i will have a new model with the updates tonight or tomorrow.

i thankyou for following my project.

 

Hey david, i noticed that my initial idea, the drawing. is very similar to what we discussed.