What tools do I need to do these things....
12-09-03, 03:07 PM
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What tools do I need to do these things....
Be able to take apart and rebuild the motor,porting the engine/manifolds and polishing the intake manifold,alternator and anything that can be polished and powercoated?What tools do I need please list.
12-11-03, 11:08 AM
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You will need these:
A GOOD impact gun; at least 500ft/lbs or better.
a nice die-grinder. A handful of carbide cutting bits (all shapes and sizes), handful of stones (all shapes and sizes/hardnesses), all the firecrackers (cartridge rolls; sandpaper rolls) you can get (80 - 320 grit). Short and a long firecracker mandrels, a hearty air-compressor works wonders, time, patience, a little artistic vision, and some templates. Wire-brushes (for the air-motor) Steel for initial polishing, brass for final polishing. Also, get ahold of some ChemDip. It's EXCELLENT for cleaning stuff.
I've seen some people work miracles with just a dremel and some carbide bits/stones. It's a lot slower, but you can be more precise with it.
Welder's tape (tin-tape) and some sheet metal. If you've never ported an engine before, this WILL SAVE YOUR ENGINE'S LIFE when the grinder jumps out of the port and onto the housing's surface; especially cover up the oil-seal track with sheet metal (the big circle that nears the ports).
A brass brush to get the carbon off the rotors after they soak in chemdip (or you could be brave and try an alkaline like Drain-O; I personally use brake-parts cleaner or carb. cleaner, but experiment and see what works on an OLD pair of rotors that you don't want to ever use). Be extremely careful when dipping aluminum compounds. They'll pit and release hydrogen gas (extremely flamable) if put into a stong base (Drain-O, Bleach). Sand-blasting will also pit Al if the sand is too coarse or the pressure is too high.
2-1/4" (or is it 2-1/8" ??) socket
3/4" socket
#10 metric socket(s); deep-well and
short.
#12 metric socket(s); deep-well and short
#14 (9/16") socket(s); deep and short
#17 sockets
a 13/16" deep-well socket
and a 21mm (7/8") deep-well socket.
Accompanying wrenches (8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm.....)
An engine stand
An engine hoist (cherrypicker)
needle-nose pliers (curved ones are
wonderful for removing hoses)
Jack
Jack-stands
Breaker bar
a spotlessly-clean shop area to
assemble the engine
Engine assembly lube
a torque wrench (new one, not an old "clicker" one)
Runout gauge
Straight-edge
feeler-gauges
Basically, one of everything the local snap-on guy has
Superglue (if you're using Mazda's OEM apex seals; it holds the corner piece to the seal until it's assembled.)
Hi-tack or Hylomar to hold those pesky water jacket seals in place. Some people like to silicone them, too (I've never tried it, so don't do it).
A camera to take some pics to show us is always nice!
There's probably a myriad of stuff I forgot to list, but this should just about cover it....
A GOOD impact gun; at least 500ft/lbs or better.
a nice die-grinder. A handful of carbide cutting bits (all shapes and sizes), handful of stones (all shapes and sizes/hardnesses), all the firecrackers (cartridge rolls; sandpaper rolls) you can get (80 - 320 grit). Short and a long firecracker mandrels, a hearty air-compressor works wonders, time, patience, a little artistic vision, and some templates. Wire-brushes (for the air-motor) Steel for initial polishing, brass for final polishing. Also, get ahold of some ChemDip. It's EXCELLENT for cleaning stuff.
I've seen some people work miracles with just a dremel and some carbide bits/stones. It's a lot slower, but you can be more precise with it.
Welder's tape (tin-tape) and some sheet metal. If you've never ported an engine before, this WILL SAVE YOUR ENGINE'S LIFE when the grinder jumps out of the port and onto the housing's surface; especially cover up the oil-seal track with sheet metal (the big circle that nears the ports).
A brass brush to get the carbon off the rotors after they soak in chemdip (or you could be brave and try an alkaline like Drain-O; I personally use brake-parts cleaner or carb. cleaner, but experiment and see what works on an OLD pair of rotors that you don't want to ever use). Be extremely careful when dipping aluminum compounds. They'll pit and release hydrogen gas (extremely flamable) if put into a stong base (Drain-O, Bleach). Sand-blasting will also pit Al if the sand is too coarse or the pressure is too high.
2-1/4" (or is it 2-1/8" ??) socket
3/4" socket
#10 metric socket(s); deep-well and
short.
#12 metric socket(s); deep-well and short
#14 (9/16") socket(s); deep and short
#17 sockets
a 13/16" deep-well socket
and a 21mm (7/8") deep-well socket.
Accompanying wrenches (8, 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24mm.....)
An engine stand
An engine hoist (cherrypicker)
needle-nose pliers (curved ones are
wonderful for removing hoses)
Jack
Jack-stands
Breaker bar
a spotlessly-clean shop area to
assemble the engine
Engine assembly lube
a torque wrench (new one, not an old "clicker" one)
Runout gauge
Straight-edge
feeler-gauges
Basically, one of everything the local snap-on guy has
Superglue (if you're using Mazda's OEM apex seals; it holds the corner piece to the seal until it's assembled.)
Hi-tack or Hylomar to hold those pesky water jacket seals in place. Some people like to silicone them, too (I've never tried it, so don't do it).
A camera to take some pics to show us is always nice!
There's probably a myriad of stuff I forgot to list, but this should just about cover it....
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