I'm using Valvoline 10w30 w/ a Fram Tough Guard filter... at least until the car has 1500 miles on it.

 

i run valvoline VR-1 SAE50. this is a straight weight oil and can handle the higher temps better than a multiweight oil with all its additives. just dont start your car when its cold outside.

man changing royal purple every 3000 miles must get expensive.

 

NO, changing Amsoil Series 2000 20W50 every 1000 miles gets expensive! So expensive in fact I became a dealer so I could get MYSELF a discount!!!! DOH!
Art

 

The only reason people don't believe in using 'pennsylvania' oil is b/c of the high parafin content. That would cause build up on the inside of the engine, in 1998 they re-formulated the oil, so now it as rougly the same parafin content as all other conventional oils.

 

I took an oil pan off another 13B yesterday that had overheated right after a rebuild (bad radiator). There was that same dark film on the pan's surface. I won't call it sludge anymore because it's not even close. It looks more like bearing material and maybe even a little bit of carbon. Both pans had it.

I guess it's too heavy to stay in suspension within the flow of oil as it goes down to the pan, and then up into the pickup tube to get filtered? It has never caused any problems. Oh, and the guts under the front cover of the overheated engine look fine. I'll stick with GTX for now.

 

Use Amsoil racing 20/50 change it 2000 miles with oem filter. Amsoil in gearboxes as well.

On the other FD use Valvoline VR-1 20/50 with oem filter. Amsoil in gearboxes. (change it often)

I became an Amsoil dealer as well back when I got my first RX-7 in 1979.

 

Smart cookie, only took me 4 years to figure out how to make a little of my money back!
Art

 

ok everyone is saying use 20-50... but mazda says 10-30??? someone enlighten me! i use castrol 10-30, and mazda filters. i have an FD by the way. heath

 

im using castrol GTX 10w30 with a purolator filter, changed every 2000-2500miles. Im also curious about why every1 uses 20w-50. On another note, how often should i change my diff/tranny fluids? Tranny has MTL in it now, and diff will soon have a fresh 2 qts. of Neo Gear.

-Zach

 

yeah why the 20-50... mazda says 10-30

 

Valvoline, 10w30 and after reading a thread about other oil filters, im going oem only.

 

I use Catrol 20/50 with a shot of lucas in my engine and castor in my tank! The reason I use 20/50 and lucas mix is the thicker the oil (to a point) the better! Higher oil pressure and I would think the thinner oil would break down sooner at higher rpms than the thicker? My oil pressure with the lucas is on the average 5 psi higher than with out. My filter is always Mobil one.

 

RedLine 20/50 every 1k miles with Mazda or Bosch filter only. With Pettit racing Protek-R in the gas tank.

 

What are you; rich? Oh wait, you mentioned Pettit. Yep.

Napa oil filters seem to be good enough for me. Hey peejay, how do you feel about oil filters? Is there one that could keep the pan's inner surface cleaner? You know that same residue is also on the inside of the rotors and oil cooler, and I'm not sure if it screws with the (oil) cooling system.

 

I run Havoline 20w50 and 1 quart of lucas oil stablizer, it works wonders. As far as filters mine gets a Bosch or K&N

 

usually i run castrol 20-50, but for the winter ive put in 10-40. if you live up north, i think 10-30 or even 5-30 is good for the winter.

 

non-synthetic oil...per mazda

I hope this resolves the ongoing debate between non-synthetic and synthetic oil

 

i wonder why they use 5-20 now????

 

a simple explanation.

Rotary engines use small amounts of oil to lubricate internal parts, yet at the same time oil needs to be burned efficiently out of the combustion chamber to prevent carbon and residue build up.

Synthetic oil will burn but it just takes longer to burn causing the seals to stick.

Where as non-synthetic will get in there and lubricate and when it needs to be flushed, it will burn faster and more effciently out of the combustion chamber.

Petit racing has an additive called Protek-R that helps to do so wether you are using non-synthetic oil or synthetic oil. That additive lets you keep your choice of oil and still keep that rotary engine alive for many years to come.

 

about your question, 20-50 is thicker, so it has very good high heat tolerance. 10-30 is thinner so you will get better gas mileage just because the oil drips off the engine parts faster. i believe morosso website has an indepth look at this. next time you go to the auto parts store look on the back of a castrol bottle of 1030, then look at 2050. they will note all the differences. 10-30 specifys the weight of the oil, but also its intended heat range. 20-50 should not be used in repeated freezing weather your car will take noticeably longer to warm up.

 

Redline 20w50.