Those are the correct hoses on the UIM Fd engine. Don't just use one. Based on your own experiment, you used just the rear hose. That mean you only ran water through the rear rotor. You need to use the front one (BOV nipple) as well to clean the front rotor. Remember see my above post about this water cleaning thing and how well it works on the exhaust. It works but it's not going to remove the heavy deposits on the rotor faces like I have come to find out.

 

Really wonder how the water got all the way into your oil. Anyone see their exhaust leaking out water?

 

just did mine, huge somke after i ran through a gallon of distilled water, will keep you updated but my engine was a healthy 8k Gotham Monster port anyways, if anything if it keeps it healthy then im glad.

 

Sorry to butt in. I have never heard of the atf trick. How much atf do you guys pour into the spark plug hole? Turn it 360 degrees 3 times to get all faces? Let it sit overnight? Any specific atf? Ive got spare mercon 3 in my garage

Im thinking about doing the atf, then running the water. Haha, do both!

I got a t2, just use a line from the LIM?

 

word of caution, run the car for at least 10 min above idle after you do this, i didn't (maybe only 5min at idle) and the day after i drove the car and came home to find water vapor mixed with oil, basically a milky yellow/white foam in my catch can and oil filler neck. not fun, had to flush the engine with 8quarts of oil to get it all out..

 

i know this has been discussed alot here but i found this and was just making sure things were ok before i do it coz i know my mates car kinda fooded and he bent a con rod in his jeep just dont want my engine to go pop or some thing bad to happen it all

NOTE • Hydrostatic lock is caused by the entry of substantial amounts of water into the engine through the air intake system and subsequent contamination of the fuel system. Hydrostatic lock most frequently occurs during or just after fording. Water is forced into the air intake system, drawn into the engine, and effectively "locks-up" the engine.

Hydro-Lock




Hydrostatic lock, hydraulic lock, hydro-lock or hydrolock occurs when liquids enter an engine cylinder.
This can occur from a coolant, oil or fuel leak,
but the chief cause is drawing water into the engine through the air induction system
(air filter, intake manifold). Internal combustion engines must employ a compression stroke to compress the charge.
Liquids are incompressible; the presence of a liquid in the engine cylinder during the compression stroke generates destructively high cylinder pressures.

Abnormally high cylinder pressures can bend and break pistons, piston pins, connecting rods, crankshafts and ruin bearings and can crack or break cylinder heads and engine blocks. Small amounts of liquids may pass through an engine cycle without causing damage. Hydro-lock may occur while the engine is running, the work of the compression stroke being supplied by engine's rotational inertia. Or a liquid may leak into the cylinder while the engine is being stored;
the work of the compression stroke will be supplied by the starter motor.

 

LOL wrong post for the wrong forum buddy. Rotary's don't have rods nor can they hydro-loc. Any water that enters the combustion chamber will flow straight through. Now if a really excessive amount goes in, the only thing that will happen is the engine will bog down to the point it stops running. Once you remove all the water from with-in the engine, the engine will fire right back up and be fine.

 

has any one utubed this id love to see it in action

 

I second this.

 

there are a bunch of it on youtube, search!

 

had a look on youtube and i can find anything either that or im not looking under the right headings

 

Any energy it creates will be less than or equal to the energy consumed to break it apart in the first place, so it's physicially impossible for it to blow anything up like this. High heat and pressure can make reactions go the wrong way; electricity works too of course but that's not the only way. That's how you get NOx in your emissions - high heat and pressure with some nitrogen and oxygen - even though NOx is an oxidizer which reacts with fuel. I dunno if that guy is right, but I know it's physically impossible to make anything blow up this way and the rest seems plausible at least. Though the cat probably isn't happy about the extra fuel coming in b/c of the O2 sensor. I wonder if you could just disconnect your O2 sensors and run on open loop during this process.

 

I think your ECU would be unhappy if you unplugged your O2 sensors....figure it's already freaking out about the engine not running as it should haha.

 

Ive used seafoam carbon cleaner several times in all of my vehicles and it has always worked great and cleaned out all the carbon buildup, plus its safe for use in anykind of engine and the o2 sensor. If you want check it out, can be purchased @ walmart, autozone, pepboys, etc..

 

I didn't read all the replys , just ended up at the end here, Need to keep in mind that oil is a fuel carbin based. and yes it will burn and lite up your cat and if it does not burn out cleanly it will leve deposits. Like in thhe plug, O2 sensor and cat, so saying that it's not going to harm any thing is BULL ****, H2O is none carbin based and all it's going to do is put the fire out in the engine knok the carbin lose. This will drop down into the cat ( unburned fuel and carbin ) lite off and once agen the cat gets red. If it all doesn't burn out clean it's time for a OEM 600$ cat, So which foot do you want to shoot off.

Steve Gambone ASE / Mazda dealer ship tech, seen it all and keeps my pay check coming

 

There is a secret....
I´ll tell you... but it is really really really top secret!!
You are not allowed to tell it other people. And it might be a disturbing fact to you. please take a seat before reading this.
Top Secret:
Most of the Rx-7 users eliminate their cat!

So no pay checks for you

Back to topic...


Theoretically it seems to be a great thing to decarbonize the engine with water.

If you are running PFC (lambda control switched off) + no cat, I can´t see any problems for your exhaust.

I´ll try it before april and maybe make a Video!

I´ll use the two hoses (BOV hose + Boost gauge hose) to decarbonize both rotors.

PS: thanks for the information about the oil...

looks like I´ll do this before changing the oil!


REgards
Marc

 

wow it was hard to read that. I spent a year working in a dealership, and I saw a lot of crazy stuff. Mainly everything that happened to peoples cars was pure neglegence. We're not talking about driving through a flood here. An engine bay, especially an RX-7 engine bay is not a cold place. so as soon as the water gets into chamber it is already steam. it's not going to fill up the chambers with water. it will try to drown out the combustion process a little but that's why you give it more fuel and air. I don't have a cat on my car either, not that it would really matter.

Hydro lock? are you serious? when in the history of man kind have you heard of a rotary getting hydro locked? if you've heard of it, lemmy know and I'll shut up. what's the most common cause of hydro lock? Flooding! these cars get flooded all the time, and what happens? the engine keeps spinning round and round, but it wont fire. I've never heard of a rotary engine locking up because of fluids. carbon lock maybe, or a broken apex seal.

also, you guys who are scared to inject water. are you expecting marble sized carbon chunks? last I checked it was a very fragile substance. expended gun powder and carbon have close attributes, and if you've cleaned enough gun powder as I have you'll notice that they both come off mainly as small pieces or a powder. unless you've let you're car build up a huge amount of carbon, and you're just gunna let it all come out at the same time, either during a rebuild, or just before you rebuild. and if I'm not mistaken they make carbon apex seals just for that reason, so you don't mess up your rotors housings or turbo/s.

 

You should have read the thread b4 commenting. Don't judge a process without trying it yourself. I've actually done this water cleaning thing for many years on my Fd with the stock cat still in place. When I removed my cat to upgrade my ppf, I took a peak inside and saw nothing but cleanliness. Ask yourself this, how many rx7's have you seen that had a perfectly functioning cat at over 100k? Mine had 108k till I blew the original engine.

 

Hey guys soime new facts/questions about this topic...

What do you guys think about using some "valve clean" extra thing in the destilled water to enlarge the cleaning effect.

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Thanks for the reply