i had a coupleof HB but all of them were running early distrubutors now im working on trying to get my new motor to start(S4)but im using my stock ecu and sensors(just to get the motor started)and im wondering if need to
stab the cas in a diferent way,the reason why im asking its cause in order to get the motor started i need to advance the cas to it maximum,the motor its suposed to be running on MS but i am having some trouble with the conecctions.any tips?
thanks Joey

 

I'm running stock timing on my 12A 1/2bp. I don't see why would even need to change the timing on a full bp. Are you sure you stabbed the cas correctly when you put the engine together?

 

Yes i did

 

Yea It should fire up w/o changing the stock timing. You getting fuel, spark and compression it should fire up. PM "JudgeIto" as he's always a got a few good tricks up his sleeve to get that thing to start.

 

I am having the same issue with my HBP S4 brigeport turbo. I am running a Haltech E6X, stock CAS and stock ign.coils, with all necessary supporting mods.

Yesterday I was able to get the motor to crank and start. I have gas,spark,compression. But I have to play with the crank angle sensor to get it to start. And like joeylyrech mentionned me 2 I have to advance the CAS all the way to ge it to start. And once it starts, my friend inside has to hold the gas at minimum 3000 rpm so it doesn't die. It smokes, backfire, pops from the throttlebody, etc.

How do I get it to hold the idle steady and time the ignition ?

 

You should have your CAS installed exactly as the FSM specifies (or as close as possible), then make necessary timing map adjustments in the ECU in order to get it to run and idle. For the CAS to be installed correctly (or close enough), the crank pulley and hub it bolts to must be from the same engine. If they are mismatched, the timing marks will be incorrect.

When you are stabbing the CAS it is very difficult to keep the teeth from moving if you have your power steering bracket bolted up. Loosen the bolts and back it off some so you have more room to move the CAS some. As you put the CAS in, it will move out of place a bit. You will have to rotate it back pretty close to where it was before you meshed the teeth together. As long as the timing marks are accurate (pulley/hub combo is good), that should be good enough for the CAS to not be the problem.

If you have to, keep the car alive by putting your foot on the throttle. Have an assistant tighten up the throttle butterfly adjuster screw on the TB, the one with the locking nut. That will give the car enough air to idle stably by opening the throttle plates up.

 

Thanks for the picture, but I dont have stock pulleys I have Mazda racing pulleys and there are no yellow or red dots. I have multiple timing marks in increments of 5 degrees, from 0 - 30 degrees BTC. And 1 extra mark more or less 15 degrees after all those timing marks, I'm assuming it's for the trailing side ? http://www.upgrademotoring.com/perfo...treetpully.htm

Has anyone tried with MR pulleys before, can someone help me out here ?