I was looking into buying some new stationary gears for a rebuild and came across two different candidates. Mazdatrix is recommending the rx8 stationary gears for all "performance" rebuilds http://www.mazdatrix.com/b4.htm but racing beat has their performance type II stationary gears. http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtnumber=10016 What's the big deal with the rx8 gears? Larger windows? Different manufacturing process? And which is the best choice (regardless of the price difference)?

 

use the Rx8 gears, they are the best.

 

Care to elaborate on your reasoning?

 

I have a set that I can sell with new bearing.(rew) The only thing that I heard that was better was the rx8 were better in the higher rpm range. But I'm putting in a set of rx8 gears now, but I'm also going with the rx8 E-Shaft.

 

They came from the factory supporting a 9k rpm redline, have more accurate teeth and multi window bearings better than any of the race bearings, they are also the cheapest by far. You should compliment them with an rx8 eshaft, and rotor bearings.

 

What are you trying to do?
If you're trying to stuff the 13B-REW stat gears into an older engine, you're going to need a lot more stuff than just the stat gears itself.
You need at least a 13B-REW spacer, 13B-REW Torrington bearings, and 13B-REW thrust washers...at least.

-Ted

 

Quite frankly, the FD pieces are more than adequate for your standard performance street build.

 

I want to build a 13B-REW with the best reliability possible. That's why the hardened teeth of the racing beat stationary gear interested me, but then there's also the question of oiling and so I was looking for specifics like "they doubled the oiling capacity of the stationary gears for the rx8 to improve oiling to the bearings and improve bearing life" when I asked in here why these were good vs. stock. I'd just like to minimize potential problems with a little over-engineering.

 

If that's the case, then run (at a minimum) dual R1 oil coolers, and look into water injection. FDs don't have oiling problems, but they do have detonation problems

 

Wait, you're building a 13B-REW, and you're questioning whether to run the *stock* stat gears or run those Racing Beat units?

Dude...

To retrofit the RB unit, it's going to be a pain in the ***.
You throw away all the nice design of the 13B-REW stat gears give you - large bearing surface area.

If you're so paranoid about lubrication, why not just jack the oil pressure higher?
The 13B-REW already runs at an ungodly 100 psi stock, and those motors rarely fail from oil lubrication problems due to the stock oil system design.


-Ted

 

Man that's harsh, if I was emo I think I'd go cry I just wanted the best since none of them are exurberantly expensive, but do you think the REW stationary gears are better than the MSP gears Ted?

 

Maybe you need to get beaten like an emo in order to understand what we're telling you

 

This is the way I see it...

The 13B-REW was built for big power and forced induction.
The MSP isn't.

True, the MSP are "hardened" (coated?), but it was designed for the higher redline.
There's an interesting thread on engine loads - raising redline versus raising power (i.e. more boost) in another section.

There is nothing wrong with the 13B-REW components.
I've never heard of anyone having problems with them, even on BIG POWER applications.
I think you're just being overly paranoid?

I mean we can argue about objective stats - bearing groove width / depth, oil pressure, blah blah blah...
But in the end, what really matters?
The 13B-REW internals have been proven to handle obscene amounts of power.
I think that testament is good enough in itself?


-Ted

 

MSPs are very reliable, and have great power stock. Infact I'm buying a GSL-SE Targa 7 off of my boss and were going to do an MSP with FE tranny swap.

I'd imagine the stat gears are good for those motors, if anything you should stick with the stock REW gears, they'll be more than sufficient for your power.

 

I just like to know the whys behind the answer. If I asked you what the best turbo was and you said turbo "x" and I just accepted that answer, I wouldn't learn much about why it's the best. Now though, I know your reasoning and can correct some other person someday when they ask this question

 

bearings alone are 50 dollars, Rx8 stat gears are better than REW stat gears (weather its a meaningful difference or not), come with bearings and cost 100 dollars.

If you actually need new stat gears, it would be stupid to buy rew stat gears. For the cost of a pair of REW stat gears you can have a new rx8 eshaft and stat gears with money left over.

And the parts are better.

 

How exactly are the RX-8 gears better? If you run a RX-8 shaft do you need to also change the counter weights?

Just curious.