Hello, I try to find some help here because my Rx7 FD3S do Not Start After rebuild.

First of all I got a JDM Rx7 FD3S bj 94 with a waterdamage Engine 5 years ago.Engine Never Runs under my Name so.

I fully rebuild the Engine by my Self with a lot new Parts but also used Parts.

Please give me some advice for Troubleshooting in losing my Mind now.

-Start with Starter cable to my Daily runing so should be Fine …
-Didnt Check Conpression or Fuel Pressure yet.
-car also Not Prime when I Switch on the ignition.
also run only for 2secounds bridged or Not
-Have ignition when turning on all 4 pluges.
-fuel Pump works when I Bridge the FP and Gnd on the Diagnosticbox in the Enginebay
-when I try to start and Push the throttle wide Open it doesnt effect much (Also with pump Bridged)Stay some secounds longer but also dies.
-Oil Pressure is there when I try to start
- 20W50 im Not sure if this Oil to thick for Stock Oilnozzle because also when I Inspect the Feed Lines the shine white because they new.
when get the nozzle activated ? Only when I try to start or when I run above a certain Rpm?
Last time I Figured out that my knock Sensor was wrong conectet but doesnt changed anything.
i will Check Troublecode again but before i Switch the conector for the knock and the servopump it was only errorcode 5 stand for Knocksensor.
(I had to Check again if its gone now, but this day when I changed Injektors and Knocksensorcable, I was 10hours Constantly working on the Car and I was Done with the world.
Everything is Stock.
Checked TPS is in tolerance
Did Somebody know the basicsetting for the idle Adjustingscrew on the UIM ?
I also checked all Fuses Looks Fine

-Injektor Are Proffed and cleaned with Protocoll
-New Fuelpressureregulator
-New Fueldamper
-New Fuel Filter
-New Airfilter
-All Vacum hoses Are new but aftermarket
-Engine Rebuild Complete by my Self
with 3new Platte‘s and 2used good Housing.
-Fully rebuild Kit Atkins (Apex Seals and Stuf)
-New Bearings
-new Waterpump
-new Belt
-new Lambdaprobe
-new oem Thermostat
-new Watertemperaturesensor
-some Solenoid valve Are New
-Revised turbochargers
-Changed Damaged Conectors on the Enginecabletree and Messure al cable for Continity.

 

Boy..... this is a lot. Just about everything is a possibility. From what you've described I think a good first place to start is the map sensor. Are you 100% sure the vacuum lime is connected in the correct location? I think getting the car to idle should be priority one and then the fuel pump after. So long as it runs being jumped then that's good enough.

Are you also sure your primary injectors are plugged in correctly? Also verify you didn't plug the fuel temp plug into the water temp sensor. It's a common mistake. We can get you through this, just have to go through the steps.

You need a check valve in your brake booster vacuum line.

Your grounds need to be checked as well. I see the one to the firewall is missing and the one from the battery to the block is easy to miss as well.

 

First of all Thanks for the Reply

Yes I 100% sure that the vacuum line goes To the Right Place… I Double Check that.

how can I Check the Map Sensor is doing his Job and what is the Voltage on the cable under wich condition (ignition on/off) that I can Check that…

Yes I think also bring the car to idle is Step one

The Primary Injectors are correkt pluged I also checked that because I have a pin out for the ECU.

I think Watertempsensor had a black red cable if I remember right i had to Check againbut was it the lvl sensor ? But any way if the fueltempsensor right is this also Right

and the Fuel temp sensor has two cable Brown with black stripe and Green with white Stripe can you verify that ?

Do you sure that I Need a Check Valve in the Brake Booster Line?Do You have a Photo Off it how it Looks Like ?

Ground: have one ground by the Lambdaprobe I Screen it on the Transmission and one its on the Rats Nest
Another Ground Cable should by sidewall on the side of the Battery but I have to Look again for it

Ecu also had a ground cable and also down on the Engine is a big one .

 

water temp sensor plug says brown/black and green/white in the manual. so you have them backwards.

the check valve is necessary yes. the brake booster only needs to see vacuum and never positive pressure. the stock one is built into the line so you wont see it.

grounds have to go from the engine to the chassis, not from the engine to the engine. you should have a ground from the upper intake manifold to the firewall and one from the battery to the engine at a minimum. then the ground terminal that goes near the ecu in the foot well.

 

So first of all then I have to change the Watertempsensor with the Fuel tempsensor

next will be looking for the old Hose for the breakbooster it should be in my Celler

I See that the mapsensor had a gasfilter I put a accidently a checkvalve on it i gues.

then the ground from the UIM to Firewall is missing I will build a cable

at last step I will Check the mapsensor Like in your Description.

Then I will start again and See what Happend

i keep you Updatet

 

Yes sounds good. Just switch the connectors for the temp sensors, not the sensors themselves

 

I changed the Watertempconector with the Fueltempconector

i swap the Hose for the Brakebooster found the old one in my Celler

on the Mapsensor was a Gasfilter so it was good

I saw that a Hose was missing from the Oilfillerneck and also the PCV-valve what goes to the Oilfillerneck was in the wrong direction so I did it in the correct Position

I add a ground Cable from to the Firewall to the UIM

i also Double Check the Ratnest. Its Fine

i try to Check the Mapsensor but it says 0.40V but I think I make a misstake because the Needle was a Little Bit to thick to me for measuring Where the cable Go into the connector…so i will repeat that measuring

I also read the errorcode from the diagnosisbox… no errorcode at the Moment so its Fine.

i try to start a few times register a better Oil Pressure when it try to start but still run 5 secounds and then Go off.
One time it turn off with a Little Backfire from the exhaust.
Im out Off Ideas

 

Double check the coils and see that the plug wires go to the correct coil and that the connectors on the coil are correct as well. It should be white(T1) black(L1&2) blue(T2).

check you air temp sensor as well and verify it is plugged in and reading.

When it is idling, does it sound normal? What happens if you try to rev it or hold the throttle open to keep it from dying?

Definitely need to verify fuel pressure somehow

make sure your crank sensors are good too. they can break and look fine until you touch them. also make sure they are fully plugged in. the white plug goes on the upper.

 

Hey I Double Check my cool Bouth Trailing Are good and have from A-B under 1OHM (0,2OHM)

I also checked compression
correctet to 250RPM
8,7 8,3 8,5 (bar)
7,5 7,1 6,9 (bar)




How can I Check the Air Tempsensor ?

Idling Sounds normal to me..sometimes I sounds Like it missing to Fire

when I try to Rev I or let The Throttle Open it try to start Like I descriped goes to 1000Rpm them goes to 300rpm and Then die. Id Look Like I dont come over 1000Rpm Doesnt matter how Hard I Push the throttle

How can I make sure that my Ne and G (Cranksensor) Are Fine How can I measure them ?

white is Top and the grey under the white one so Thats fine

 

Air temp is good 3,7kohm cold Garage spec 2,2kOhm 20Crad Celsius

igniton Cable was out of spec T1 6kOhm T2 13kOhm
L1 6kOhm L2 9kOhm
Spec 16Kohm per Meter should round about 3kOhm per Cable

new Ngk Cable 2Kohm on al 4 Cable now

Check the Voltage for igniton coil is good with ignition on 11,8V Battery 11,95 so Little drop there but should be good
should I try it under Cranking ?

Map Sensor PIN C 5V Ignition on

forgot to measure from A to B -.- have to do it
measure only A to ground disconected had 5V IGN On
but I think the Map Sensor or the ECU is faulty there

Runs Not with mapsensor disconected

Runs with new ignitioncable Little Bit longer 12Secounds then die but only one time

othere try stalls again Like before rough low idle

maybe new map Sensor+ Measure and checking crank Sensor will be my Next Step

 

So yesterday I measure the Fuel Pressure on the Rx7 its on 0,9Bar thats 14Psi on Fuel Pressure

it Runs on Max 400Rpm For a Minute when I try to Push the accelerator it Stalls instandly

so Next I Go with a new fuel Pump

(condition of the old Pump Stuck before then I make it functonaly)

 

Sounds like you found your problem. Consider deleting the o ring seat on feed pipe in favor of a regular hose. We have a video on our YouTube page on how to do this properly. Ignore everything else I the video.

 

The Fuel Pump was Bad but After that it Act Like before the Problem was also a Leaking secondary Injektor-Oring.
After that the Car idle now but Running Like Crap cold idle is to low and bouncing After 20secounds when the Airpump Clutch get off I Register some Pop and bangs during idle.
when I hold the throttle to get Like 1500rpm it run I would say smooth without Misfire when I Push Little Bit more the throttle I can hear the turbos Spool but also hear wierd Noise.
How can I set the col idle corectly on stock Ecu ?
I also have a Lack of power I gues because when I try to rev the Car try to Stall out

 

generally with stuff like this i like a video, to hear the engine running and how it's cranking when attempting to start.


did you recheck fuel pressure? low pressure usually isn't a pump but a poor installation or a leak in the system somewhere, could also be a regulator that is very far out of adjustment.