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engine rebuilds, cranks but wont start - help

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Old 10-15-05, 10:27 PM
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PDM

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engine rebuilt, cranks but wont fire - help

Hi, I have a 1996 FD3S, had it for just over a year and oneday while driving it like it was stolen it went bang, cut a long story short, I broke an Apex seal. So a few K later, I have done a nearly a full rebuild, i.e 3mm Apex, all new seals, everything on motor was replaced except Housing and Rotors as these were fixed ( gouging was on the out stroke to the Turbo and on edge of Rotor but as I said all been fixed by a pro. I put the motor back together following Atkins Rotary's Video which is Rotary's for dummies basically (you cant go wrong) but it seems I have!
All back together, engine cranks, I have spark in all 4, crank sensor plugs and all other wiring is correct. running an after market ECU but was running on this before it blew, seem to have done everything correct, have checked everything, (Forums have been a great help) but it wont start!!! when cranking, it makes popping noises, can smell raw fuel and is chugging smoke as its trying to wind over, have tried engine start, tow starting, push starting now I'm really at a loss! Only thing I can think of is maybe all the Petroleum Jelly you have to use when putting seals etc in has maybe clogged something, pleae help me if you can, I dont want a garage ornament!

Last edited by RX7 battyman; 10-15-05 at 10:49 PM. Reason: spelling error in title changes subject
Old 10-15-05, 10:42 PM
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Anybody??? It has had a street port too while apart if this makes any difference, it really sounds like it wants to go even more everytime I try it, but obviously something is stopping it, any ideas, I'm new to this forum thing!
Old 10-15-05, 10:49 PM
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Compression?

Not sure about this whole thing now...especially after attempting to Tow start it.
I do know that with a big street port, and 3mm seals, it's hard to get solid compression on brand new build. Try the old fuel pump relay trick after some solid cranking, because it may be flooding too quick, or grab some oil, and pour a light amount into both rotors (via spark plug whole) prior to starting. This may help as well...

Best I can do.
Old 10-15-05, 10:54 PM
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Thanks, will try it. Just in the process of another tow start with a faster car to get revs up highr, It really is close to going so maybe this will work! it was a lot harder to turn after rebuild than before rebuild. will let you know how next tow start goes
Old 10-15-05, 11:08 PM
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o.k, tow start this time got it start but I had to take alternator belt off on last run and left it off for this one so it started but wouldn't keep going due to no charge. Have put belt back on, will try the oil on rotors and give it another go. Thought my standard radiator might work as it bubbled after being driven but it is bubbling again now from the short run, any ideas on a good size ( have been running large intercooler but naturally this is not enough and its getting to hot. It was running lean when it blew which is why it blew.
Old 10-16-05, 11:15 AM
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sounds like a leaky injector....plus you need to have your car retuned if the car was running to lean...well thats me 2 cents good luck
Old 10-16-05, 07:56 PM
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The alternator belt runs the water pump, so if you ran it very long at all I'm sure you'll get some bubbling/boiling of the coolant.
Old 10-16-05, 09:32 PM
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So it was running lean, and that caused the engine to lunch? Ok, do you have stock twins or single? Stock ECU or aftermarket? Things are obviously going to be different with the new, ported block. Did you try the oil?
Old 10-16-05, 10:53 PM
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Change the plugs and pour some tranny fluid into the motor...if you built it correctly the motor should start right up.
Old 10-17-05, 12:14 AM
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Turbojeff, it was bubbling before rebuild but have been told to get bigger radiator, however everyone thinks they are an expert here in NZ and they all said that bubbling after turning car off is normal but I think not.

Turbosrx7s, running lean caused it to get very hot after excessive boosting and then it cooked its lunch but not mine! Have stock twins but aftermarket ECU, have tried original and new which were both working fine before it blew. The oil is 15/40 mineral oil non synthetic as this is what I was told to use for run in.

Tried another towstart and got it going, held it at 2000rpm for about 7 mins before it stalled, but still wont start sitting still. Have been told the tranny fluid trick by someone else also so I may just give it a whirl

Thanks
Old 10-17-05, 11:35 AM
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I know you just rebuilt it but how is the compression ? Does it sound strong when your turning it over ?
Old 10-25-05, 05:50 PM
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I just had my engine rebuilt and got a small bridge port, and 3mm seals. For the tranny fluid trick, how much do I put in each housing?
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