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Spark plug broke inside housing

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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 04:55 PM
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MA Spark plug broke inside housing

Hey there, I have a 1991 RX7 turbo with an old engine that I was attempting to clean. I used the ATF trick and after spinning the engine a few times with the spark plugs out I was about to start it.

So I screw them in like ususal, only I guess I used a little too much torque on the rear trailing spark plug and it broke off inside the housing! I took out what was left (the center electrode, porcelain and the end threads) but much of the threads and the 4 ground electrodes are left stuck inside the housing!

Are there any tricks I can use to retrieve this? It's not like I can take the head off to drill it out, so do I just have to rebuild? Ideas guys, please!
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 05:42 PM
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From: fl
wait so the hex part where the socket fits over is gone too?
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 06:00 PM
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Wow, first time I ever heard of that happening. How old was the spark plug that broke off? You'v got to talk to NGK, if you'v used theirs.

Good luck.
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Old Aug 2, 2009 | 07:15 PM
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Is any metal still accessible? I've rounded the hex of one of those BR10EIX plugs that sit deeper in the housing. I ended up having a friend use a cheap gasless MIG to weld a piece of pipe to the metal, and then a hex not on the pipe. so i turned the whole thing and that helped me remove the plug.

Attached Thumbnails Spark plug broke inside housing-damaged_plug.jpg  
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 12:32 PM
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From: Amherst, Massachusetts
Originally Posted by arghx
Is any metal still accessible? I've rounded the hex of one of those BR10EIX plugs that sit deeper in the housing. I ended up having a friend use a cheap gasless MIG to weld a piece of pipe to the metal, and then a hex not on the pipe. so i turned the whole thing and that helped me remove the plug.
Wow... that sucks. My problem isn't nearly as bad.

In fact I got it out of the housing this morning! Here are the bits:



Look at the end of the NGK plug and notice that without the center electrode it looks remarkably like a phillips head screw. I actually managed to carefully back the broken plug out with a decent amount of torque on a screwdriver. There might still be some bits of metal stuck in the thread since my spare plug doesn't screw in too easily.

So just for future reference, how many ft/lbs do I use on this? Oh, and do you think there may be any problems from a couple flakes of metal getting into the chamber? I already have poor compression on the rear rotor.
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Old Aug 3, 2009 | 07:16 PM
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I made the same mistake. I over tightened the spark plug and the center cracked from the electrode and threads and was stuck in the trailling housing. You were able to get it out with a screwdriver, lucky you. I had to make a few phone calls and get a snap-on deep socket extractor.
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Old Aug 6, 2009 | 04:05 PM
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Is that so Roman Hummm.......

Makes me wonder when did you make all those phone calls
must have been while I was taking the broken threaded part of the plug out for you.

BTW it is not a deep socket extractor et is only called an left hand extractor.

J-P
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Old Aug 12, 2009 | 07:49 PM
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wow, that's gonna make me worried every time i change plugs now, glad you got it out
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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That is why an intelligent mechanic reads the torque speck for fasteners and uses torque wrenches.
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Old Aug 15, 2009 | 10:52 PM
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Wow..Carnage at its Best!
I use anti sieze on Plug threads,so they don't get stuck.(good thing to try to get into).
and I Never tighten the plugs TIGHT tight.just enough that the threads Lock,and then Slap the Socket wrench and Done.(that is my Torque Wrench..a Slap,..haha!).
but I have to say that the Above answers are good examples on HOW to fix Sht if it happens.I commend the Ingenuity.
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Old Aug 16, 2009 | 01:15 AM
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I don't use a torque wrench on plugs, maybe I should, but I was taught by an old hotrodder (person that got me into cars in the first place) to just do them finger tight and then a very slight snugging (1/8 of a turn-ish?). he reasoned that they get very tight after some thermal cycles, and it's true that plugs always come out harder than you screwed them in.

Anti seize is also a good idea. I've never had an issue with any of my plug ever, whatever you do, do not torque the hell out of spark plugs.
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Old Aug 17, 2009 | 06:26 AM
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From: fl
yea, they dont need to be torqued very tight at all.
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