Jakemarchildon20

Jakemarchildon20

I do not c a black/white wire. There is a solid black wire amongst the 4 in the connector. Is that the one




Top right is solid black

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the previous owner sure liked gadgets, next i wonder what the SAFC is for, as that is something generally only used on airflow sensor equipped vehicles.. not MAP sensor based ones.

the turbo timer is useless also, and since the water temp gauge doesn't work i'd probably start by yanking all those out and see if there is any faulty wiring they are tied into or bridged across.

sorry, it is the white/red on the FD fuel pump, been a while.

Jakemarchildon20

Ok white red. I use it too get my air fuel ratio and long drives I let it run too let oil run thru turbos. Thought a turbo timer was a smart thing too have? Ya the safc is something I would like too ditch and
Get a Pfc instead. Don't know how too mess with it, the only thing I know is that you can tune your af ratio
At certain intervals adding extra fuel if needed. I just used it too have my idle 14.7-1

Would love too yank it out just not Shur how too do it

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

its only use is for oil only turbos. the stock twins are oil and coolant cooled, they cool off quickly enough that a turbo timer has no benefit but to waste gas. in fact they can be hazardous if not necessary, one time i had a customer's throttle stick while i was on a test drive and the engine was bouncing off the limiter (8500RPMs) while i fiddled with the stupid turbo timer.

Jakemarchildon20

I got ya. Well I can't get a solid readin I think I'm gonna have
Too sand something down too get a good connection. I got my meter
Set too 20v dcv is that correct?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

that should be the correct setting to get a 12v reading, just use the battery for reference until you get a proper reading off that.

Jakemarchildon20

Does the car need 2 be running? Not getting anything
Sanded down a spot for ground

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

the pump only gets voltage during crank to prime and when running, or with the pump diagnostic pin jumpered to ground. so yeah, do it while the car is running.

Jakemarchildon20

Ok I started the car and got a reading of 8.70

Jakemarchildon20

I put the pin in the red white wire used red test lead on that
And black test lead too sanded ground area

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

then i suggest doing a rewire of the pump power, theres writeups on here for how to do that. may or may not be the problem but it likely is one problem along the way as you sort things out.

Jakemarchildon20

Wiring is not my thing lol I wish that it never
Actually works. It bugs me it works awsome and
Teases me then .....***** in my mouth lol

Jakemarchildon20

was researching the voltage too the fuel pump and read somthing about it having a restrictor at idle that keeps voltage lower and under load above 3000k rpms it remouves the restriction and sends full voltage? maybe thats y i am only getting 8.70 v at idle....havent tested at load. I do however agree that replacing with 10 guage would be smart too do

i was woundering if after fixing the boost leak and the crv i should reset my ecu... i understand what your saying about how over boosting will trip limp untill i back off and not store any codes. So maybe i should reset the ecu and turn my boost down too "x" psi and try again iwill keep a eye on my boost guage. what should i set the controller too... 10psi ???

the over boost limp you have explained too me makes sence, and researching the effects of fuel cut/limp mode are almost. identical.... what do you guys thing

will20

It may be your ecu i had a bogging problem with my 88 fc when i try and punch it past 4k rpms

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

what boost numbers are you seeing when this bucking issue arises?

Jakemarchildon20

Been trying too get it too at least boost with no luck. I been looking into things like maybe the waste gate is sticking??? I'm thinking maybe it over boosted sending it in limp, being then closed and now stuck??? I want too check that

I had about 1/4 of fuel from last year I had in the tank..I put 89 octane in it a while ago and theirs just under a 1/4 tank left. I just got some 94 maybe it will help???have not put it in I have 20L jerry can ready too go in. Would shitty fuel make it act up

I want too pull the codes and will just need too verify if when I do, I do it correctly

I warmed the car up and took it for a small run with no boosting happening, I can get the car above 4000 rpm just can't let the vacuum go to possitive on my boost gauge. I was trying stuff out so I warmed the car up good and revved it up if I do it slow I can get it too continue climbing. If I wot it, it bucks when vacuum goes away. Need too pull codes I guess. I really don't trust this safc and looking at settings on it

Car type: 4 cylinder arrow up too the right

Sensor type: pressure
Sensor number: 5 in 5 out

Wish I can just scrap it compleatly

I'm getting discouraged lol

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

you can pull codes by grounding pin ten in the diagnostic box, turn the key on then read flash codes from the check engine light.

i have no idea what the SAFC is tied into so i can't tell you if it's setup properly, it really doesn't belong in an FD in the first place.

yes the FD has a 2 step fuel pump voltage system but anything less than 9 volts means your electrical wiring is showing age and is likely a problem.

also, do NOT run anything less than 91 octane. the car may survive 87-89 for some highway driving and even boosting up to stock boost levels but once a warm day hits and the engine is heat soaked "boom", toasty seals. old fuel can cause the car to run a bit doggy but it would run that way at all RPMs, not in boost only. you may have sticking secondary injectors if nothing else shows up in the testing procedures.

if you can't or won't touch electrical then you should think hard about paying a professional to take a look at the car, because i can tell you that the car does need some electrical help as it sits.

overboost won't put the car into limp mode, it does have similar characteristics though, but only after the engine is pulling really hard and well over stock boost levels. which doesn't sound like your problem, so i'm leaning toward a bad oil metering pump, throttle sensor, weak fuel system or sticking secondary injectors. large boost leaks can also mimic limp mode at times. pulling codes can help eliminate 2 of those, which is the oil metering pump and sometimes the throttle sensor.

Jakemarchildon20

Thanks so much for your patiance and insight good sir. I will be bringing it to a shop too get the fuel pump rewired and pull codes, I'm figuering that it needs too be done sooner then later. May solve it but if it does not at least it's putting guess work too rest on the fuel sending. The injectors will be next if the problem continues.

I drained the fuel and put 94 octane in. Good thing I didint run too much with the lower stuff.

I need a brake from constantly thinking,researching about what it can or cannot be. It's driving me bananas. I feel like I failed and am now consumed with frustration but my lack of skill and knowledge will not help me on figuring this out. Need too bring it too a mechanic too get this sorted out.

There's a shop in Pickering called mazdees and all they work on are rotorys and miatas. Brought it there too replace fuel filter.... They know there stuff.

I'm just woundering if I could drive it there it's about 200km away... You think it will be ok too do that trip. Like I said the car drives fine if I drive it easy...

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

if it doesn't have an issue out of boost then i don't see why not.

sometimes paying for professional help is just what you have to do, the more knowledgeable don't learn it all overnight and we made plenty of mistakes along the way. learning takes time and patience, but you are working on a car that someone has already hacked into and wired up a bunch of stuff so any online help is going to be very tedious.

Jakemarchildon20

well got it too mazdees and he told me my lower intake gasket is shot....??? whould this be the problem?... he said it will cost me 800$ canadien for the labour and gasket.. he said something about a turbo gasket may need too be replced and there not the cheapest.. they do know there stuff and if its totally blown it has too be done. the shitty part is if its not the problem im looking at more $$. hopfully it solves the problem... fingers crossed

FD3S-R2

It's interesting to find this thread. Mine's started the same symptoms a couple of weeks ago. Also a RHD. In my case, have not even been able to play around with because of work. What's been the update/progress on your issue?

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

unlikely, 95% of the FD3S i tore apart had a multi layer steel lower intake gasket. a very random few had the old paper gaskets, which is the only way it could blow out.

Jakemarchildon20

well i guess i have a 5%er lol. So this is what ive had done at the shop... first off the lower intake manifold gasket was blown out and it was the shitty paper one... while most of the labour was getting that done i had all the gaskets replaced with a metal ones, aswell getting all the hoses/lines off turbos replaced, the turbo gasket, dp gasket and replaced all the vaccume lines in the prosses. eventially they would have leaked expetially my crusty *** vaccume lines, so i might aswell. one of my fans where broken so i replaced that. they told me the problem is fixed and getting all of its power now. so maybe check your lower intake gasket and hoses.


One other thing ive been told is my temp sensor reading between the ecu and the sensor has a problem. im replacing that monday and if all goes well i can pick it up next week sometime. cant wait. big ups too mazdees in pickering on.

Jakemarchildon20

well was a bit of a wait but i got her back and man..... im pretty shur ive never had it running this good!!! im sooo happy. there where a few other things that he found wrong with the car that im greatful he found. will list what was done. Lower intake gasket, dp gasket, turbo gasket, all vacuum lines, injector seals, random weathered hoses and lines, fan unit(broken blade), rewiered my fans.. and i think the bucking issue was probably my omp wire was broken off !!!! and my water thermosensor was malfunctioning...was time too show her some love so spending 1700$ too get her back running was the least i could do, ive neglected her long enough lol. he even gave new wiper blades an detailed my car!... I could not be happyer. i think he gave me a awsome deal considering he had his tech spend 2 days looking for this hesitation problem. what a emotional rollercoster for both of us.. i got too hand it too these guys from mazdees they where set on finding and fixing this issue and with my cars hacked electrical system, never gave up. i asked him too get it back too me like new and dave and johnny killed it. anyone from ontario looking for a reliable shop that know there **** hit them up. they will be the only ones touching my car.Have always been scared of people touching this thing... probably y i let her go so far. no worrys now. I can now after 8 years finally enjoy this car and not worry about if it breaks who is going too work on it. also big ups too evolution for trying his best at helping me too the best of his abilitys. there was so much wrong with this car it would be impossible too fix over the internet, but you nailed it with that omp !!! youve tought me alot sir, thank you very much for that. respect