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try replacing the kinked line and see how it goes, if it is kinked it may be holding the valve open or closed at certain times when it isn't supposed to.
the HKS part is just a muffler for the smog pump atmospheric dump.
there is another charge relief valve for the secondary turbo further back on the turbos, it comes off the secondary turbo almost at the firewall.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-01-16 at 03:06 PM.
Well after replacing that vaccum line. The car still did the same thing, but looking around a little bit more closely I found this
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Well I think this has too be the problem.... Has too be.. Need to buy a new one and test it out
Well it solved my problem. I couldn't wait to grab the part
So I was dieing too see if that was it so I taped the **** out
Of it at took it for a run..... First time in way too
Long that I felt boost, no bucking and that awsome feeling of the
Boost...has been missed. Tape poped thru after boosting it once but
I found it..
Big thanks too evolution you are the man and you helped
Me a big deal with trouble shooting this epic problem I have
Been dealing with for too long. I'm so happy... Next time it breaks
I have new found confidence and things I can apply too solving it myself
Evolution thanks so much sir
not a problem and figured something along those lines, and why i specifically mentioned to do a thorough inspection of those couplers in im. seen this issue more than a few times with that charge pipe rubber, it's not always easy to see it from all angles either so a tear can be hidden.
Well my excitement has been short live .... Got a replacement coupler that was blown and the problem is still there..... The car will boost once when I first take it out, smilesss..... Try and boost again and bucking ensues. It's almost like when the tem goes up it happens. Been researching and I read that the primary turbo hose could collapse on itself when it warms up??? It's frustrating as hell but really I thought that fixing that giant boost leak was going too solve the problem... Boost is there then it's not and it chokes the fu@k out.
Another thing I am confused about is my car might be set up non-sequentially... Researching and looking over my car there are two plugs near the vacuume chamber that are taped up and not connected researching more I think it's either the charge control solenoid valve and the charge relief valve solenoid or the waste gate control or the turbo pre control. They are located facing the front of the car the two connectors are taped up and sealed and the two plugs near the manifold are not being used ?? Is this set up non sequentially??
I am going too check every hose over... Going too do the fuel pressure test( crimping return line, tap the ingnition too c if it's going too 90 psi) this is driving me insane lol I'm going too figure this fu#cker out, I'm on a mission
i would pull codes and see if something comes up, could be limp mode.
when limp mode trips it will cause the car to run on limited power for the duration of the ignition cycle. generally anything over 3500RPMs and partial throttle will cause limp mode to cut power a large portion of engine power by cutting fuel to one rotor and retarding ignition until you back off the throttle. several things can cause limp mode to trip, usually it is a faulty oil metering pump or a TPS with a flat spot.
fuel cut due to overboost is a temporary and singular process in the ECU, an abrupt loss of power resuming a moment later. no codes are stored for this usually, a boost gauge can confirm overboost fuel cut which hits between 13 and 14psi.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-07-16 at 02:42 PM.
Just did the dead head pressure test and the pressure only got up too 50psi.... Is that telling me my pump is bad??
In thought ,because it hits lean when the problem happens shouldn't that mean not enough fuel is being pumped in under load?? It works once then it doesn't tho!? I'm thinking out loud lol
if the return is completely clamped and you are only getting 50psi then you are having a fuel supply issue. could be a bad pump, a pump extension hose, hose clamps on the pump or low voltage to the pump(rather common and usually the issue for low volume).
no idea about the non sequential, there's many ways to go about it but even more wrong ways to go about it.
I think I need too put the fuel questiones too rest for good... Should I just buy a new fuel pump?? I replaced a super cloged filter a year back maybe I should just do it?
that is the wastegate solenoid and the turbo precontrol solenoid.
i do semi recall seeing a manual boost controller in your engine bay near the passenger side wheel fender skirt.
fuel pump voltage should be 11v+, preferrably over 12v when in boost but if it ever drops below that then a rewire would be due. you can test it off the black/white wire to the fuel pump under the hatch carpet. just stick a needle into the wire and clip your tester onto that and black lead to a suitable ground point.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-07-16 at 03:03 PM.
I don't thing I have a manual controller... I have a evc boost controller installed?? Maybe if could point it out on the pic? I will post picks of what I got. Doing voltage test in 5 min that's again
my eyes musta deceived me, i thought i saw a manual boost controller but if you have an EVC then it's the same thing, those solenoids would likely be bypassed.
I got the car like this 7 years ago and she ran great only problem I had was a super cloged fuel filter and now this issue... I'll see what this voltage test tells me
06-01-16, 03:03 PM
