zenbeast

I have checked well every thing..
I do not have gas.. Watch the videos and if you know this riddle ..
For the love of God... Please help..

I would like to get my baby running again...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMJEOoB4DYs


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=knqiqbFgRHU


Thank you sooo much if you know and can help..

snivley whiplash

iTrader: (4)

year and mods will help, what are we looking at?

zenbeast

This is my 86 NA .. Last time she ran. I drove home from work and turned her off..
And she never started again.. I had a primary coil stop working.. So i got a new used coil..

I have everything.. but the injectors firing. so i have a "no gas" issue.
I figure someone just might know.. This weird issue... I am totally sure the ECU works. I just put it in a another car.. And the car ran fine.

Indian

iTrader: (1)

is your injector harness getting power? What about EGI Fuse?

Are you getting spark? could be a trigger issue?

zenbeast

Well i am getting spark ..
I think the EGI is good .. i think i need it for the fuel pump to supply the pressure... Um... but do I? That is an interesting question... I did test the fuse for connectivity.. it was good...

You might have a point that I might test out that area.. the wires from the EGI fuse...

Thanks..

Indian

iTrader: (1)

check to see if your injector harness is indeed getting power at the injector... If it is, then it's a signalling issue from the ecu.. could be wiring or ecu/ecu connection.

zenbeast

I have tested out the ECU wiring.. Well just about everything.. Not the air cond wire and not the PS wire.. but most everything .. more than half of the wires have been checked...

I get the Power from the main relay to the injectors.. The grounding pulse from the ECU is not happening.. I have tested the ECU in another car so it works.. in fact i get the power all the way to the ECU.. through the injectors. even though i have tested the wire out..lol so i know they work..

If i just knew what "if not plugged or working" would stop the ECU from sending the ground pulse... I would be good...

But i will test out the wires from the EGI fuse .. through the car today.. a wire could have burnt...

Len-Len

iTrader: (9)

It could be your CAS. Or your injectors being clogged. I've had both situations happen to me. Try pulling your CAS out and spinning it by hand with the key on engine off. Listen for clicking noises from your injectors while you spin the CAS. You may have to pull the UIM to really hear the clicking... I'm not sure with the NA.Only thing that sucks is you'll have to stab the CAS again.

satch

iTrader: (1)

If you pull the small plug off of the ECU and w/the fuel check connector jumpered and key to on supply a ground to the wire in the small plug that correlates to one of the injectors you have removed for testing purposes. If the injector spits fuel then you know that the wire from the ECU to the injector is good to go. This is a very simple and quick test to determine if the wire which provides the ground signal from the ECU is good or not.

Also, remove the largest plug at the ECU to test the CAS. With the multimeter set to ohms place one meter lead to pin 1N (Green wire) and the other meter lead to pin 1P (Blue wire) and it should read between 110 to 210 ohms. Do the same thing for pin 1T (Red wire) and pin 1Q (White wire) and the results should be the same.

zenbeast

I think my CAS works.. im getting coil spark.. And the ohms are with in tolerance.. and i test out the wires one by one.. on both sides..

Injectors are working.. cleaned and tested..

Thats it though.. i am not getting the click..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Are the relevant pins in the ECU plug pulled back by chance? If you do as I suggested above it will tell you if the plugs which connect to the primary injectors are good or not. If the signal on the wires are good but the connector to the injectors are not good then it is absolutely a moot point if everything else is copacetic/working well but the plug connectors are not doing their job.

zenbeast

Ok i traced some EGI wires and then i worked with checking ignition wires.. I did find a small black wire that was not passing voltage.. I have patched it and soldered .. and heat shrink-ed it..
So maybe some thing.. But i am charging the battery now... ... and i have to go to work soon..

Cross your fingers..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Is this wire Black/Yellow as in the wire which supplies voltage to the injectors? Solid Black wires that are thin gauge on an S4 are grounds. Black/White from the EGI Comp fuse powers the ECU.

zenbeast

I have to work with this.. So i had it spraying.. when i cranked it.. so i put the car back together..

and charged the battery.. and then it was not working again...

I did not solder the other side.. i could not reach it.. So i think that it could be the other side of the little black wire ..or another wire next to it..

Oh.. it looks like a small black wire.. but... it has positive going through it i think.. I will need time to work on it..lol

I did not have enough time today.. too much to do.. so little time..lol

So the Big black/yellow is the injector power? the same power from the main relay to resistor pack to injector .. through injector to the ECU?

Or the other side? If its the other side then i will make sure i solder most all of the wires..
My soldering gun is the big trigger one.. I will be getting a pen type to finish this ...

OH... New information... It looks like the ignition has been changed out... And here in might be my problem...

REwire.. and solder it all..lol..

satch

iTrader: (1)

The B/Y wire from the Main relay supplies voltage to the coils and the injectors but once the voltage reaches the injectors the voltage passes through the injectors via the Green striped wires which leads to the ECU thus the B/Y wire doesn't actually end at the ECU.

When the B/Y wire supplies power to the coils it passes through connector FEM-02 before it reaches the injectors. FEM-02 is one of the large Orange connectors joining the Front and Emission harness located above and to the right of the ECU. If this connector had an iffy connection it would prevent the injectors from receiving voltage from the B/Y wire but it would still provide power to the coils.

zenbeast

Has anyone got a pic of the switch and maybe a list of where the wires go... I do not think my issue is a big wire.. its a small wire..
The big wires have plugs... the small ones are iffy in connection. lol..

satch

iTrader: (1)

Which switch? Main relay?

zenbeast

The ignition key switch...

satch

iTrader: (1)

The smallest gauge wires at the ignition switch are for the key reminder chime.

zenbeast

Hey check this out... i collected something you posted like in jan.. here are the key points..

**plug 1**
Back/Red and is for the starting circuit

**plug 2**
Black wire has constant voltage on it and comes from the Main fuse in the engine fuse box
Black/White wire is for the IG1 fuses in the interior fuse box

**plug 3**
Blue wire is for accesories
Black/Red wire in this two wire plug is for IG2 fuses in the interior fuse box

*plug 4**
has four wires and is for the key reminder when you leave the key in the ignition

Is this sill mostly right?

satch

iTrader: (1)

It was completely right then and still is to this day.

zenbeast

Good info... As soon as i get home in the morning.. i can look in to this....
and solder and rebuild that mess under the dash...

I think i have two other wires from the key switch.. one small red and one small black.. other than these that go to the 4 plugs... I will have to send a pic is i do..

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the ECU is being powered properly it would be indicated at pin 3I by having battery voltage w/key to on. If you have voltage at this pin then the B/W wire at the ignition (front harness) is working properly. If you can turn the engine over then the Black wire in the same plug and the Black/Red wire in the single plug are working correctly. The Black wire is also known to be working since it supplies the B/W wire in the switch as well. These three ignition wires are the ones required to start the car while the others are not.

And you spoke of a Black wire which you could not solder because you could not reach it the other end or........ Well, as far as the part of the wire which you could reach, where did this wire lead to? Could this not be important information?

And when you stated the injectors were spraying before reassembly does this not suggest a loose connection in either one of the connections or a possible intermittent short?

zenbeast

I dont know what i need to test for an intermittent short.. I have looked around..
I keep looking for something.. burnt or .. ..

What am i looking for.. Or what do i check..

I'm about to take my dash apart..

There has to be something...

satch

iTrader: (1)

Removing the dash is not going to help you. You still haven't mentioned, and you probably won't, which Black wire you were messing with that you could not solder because you couldn't reach the other end. If the B/Y wire and the B/W wire coming from the Main relay via the four wire plug always have constant voltage w/the key to on then the Black wire and the B/W wire in the ignition switch are good and there are no ifs and or buts to this. The B/R wire in its own plug at the ignition switch is "only" used to provide voltage to the starter when turning the engine on so this isn't an issue either. The other ignition wires are for accessories and non engine running related issues, period. You're just going around in circles for some unknown reason and eventually you'll provide the proper info to solve your problem but were not holding our collective breathes.