hey everyone i have a 88 gxl and i want to turbo it. so i bought a 13b-rew core and was wondering if i can swap the internals to make it easier to put in. i heard i f you swapped the rotors it would throw the timing out but i figured if i swap e-shaft to that would fix the issue any suggestions would be helpful thatnks

 

You'd be changing the imbalance, not timing. You use the counterweights that go with the rotors. Easy. If your case, if you were using a nonturbo transmission, you'd need a flywheel from a '89-91 nonturbo since '89-91 FC had the same rotor weights as FD.

There are also differences with the front thrust bearing. You'd want to use all FD bits.

But now, the big question: Why? You won't be able to put the FD manifolds on the FC block, the intake won't fit (much different bolt pattern) and the exhaust won't fit with the N/A intake. The FC engine won't have the oil drain for the rear turbo, and it won't have the oil feed for it. It's much weaker structurally than the FD stuff.

None of this is insurmountable, but it would still be loads simpler to just figure a way to mount the FD engine to your chassis. You could still use a Series 5 N/A flywheel as mentioned above so that you can blow through transmissions at an alarming rate, or you can use a S5 Turbo II flywheel and convert to Turbo II transmission, which would be easy for you because everything to do it is a bolt in. You also could just use an FD transmission but you'd have to figure out how to support it and either live without a speedometer, convert to electronic speedometer, or get a $350 box that drives a speedo cable based off of VSS signals. You could probably convert to Turbo II transmission for less than it would cost to buy five N/A transmissions.

 

So, basically N/A FCs are for the most part screwed past 200HP? For the budget minded, is there any way to reasonably build a streetable 300HP GXL without breaking the bank? Especially with regards to the transmission. Is there a way to rebuild it to the same spec as a turbo tranny?

 

Anything past 200-210hp is a lot of money big ports and not a street car, if you want to make 300hp look into 1 t2 swap 2 turbo n/a build aka aaron cake style I'm currently doing my own s4 6 port turbo with high compression rotors looking at a rough 250hp after I'm done with a hybrid turbo!

 

Does Aaron have a build thread somewhere here? 250HP might be good enough, but I can't find a turbo manifold for an N/A 13B S4. The exhaust ports aren't quite the same as the 13BT, right?

 

Google aaron cake he had a website dedicated to it. !!

 

I described it - you take out the 6 port and put in a turbo engine. Anything that you do will involve the engine coming out, and the exhaust will have to be different, and the intake will have to be different, so it's not that much additional work.

The turbo transmission is a completely different species. You unbolt the N/A transmission and bolt in a turbo one.

Easy for YOU to do, you have a FC. I have an FB and break transmissions frequently with N/A torque. Turbo transmissions are not a bolt in because there is no cheap driveshaft option. Plus they do not shift well at high RPM. What is a bolt-in proposition for you is far more expensive for me because of the one-off parts that have to be made.

 

the best answer is the one i gave to his thread in the 2nd gen section.

why reinvent the wheel? even the people who went with hybrid setups usually leaned more towards the way the car originally was built in the end, because parts availability is the key and fabricating for no useful reason is just a waste of time.

the 6 port irons have issues that you won't run into with a proper 4 port engine. basically the intake outflows the exhaust and creates issues with boost management unless everything is balanced well.

 

Well, where I live, T2s are almost nonexistent. The only evidence I have of them existing here is a convertible FC that's 200 miles from my house and a craigslist posting of a T2 driveshaft. Best option seems to be getting a JDM engine and tranny shipped to my door, which I'm very, very, very, very, very hesitant about. Then I'd need to buy a T2 drive shaft, diff, half shafts, and so on and so forth. Not to mention I don't even have an engine hoist.

So speaking relative to my own budget, kind of expensive...

 

you won't be building a streetable 300hp(crank or wheel hp) non turbo GXL, so it doesn't matter anyways. well, not without nitrous anyways.

 

It's nothing you wouldn't have to deal with with the N/A setup either.

car-part.com is your friend.

 

parts are out there, you just have to look for them. there is a classified section on this forum and it sort of amazes me how it seems so many don't realize it is the best source for parts. just research the seller.

 

Did you look at my answer to this question on your other thread?if not then do it and youl find some answers there.if you don't have a budget to do it then there is a cheaper option but it might not run perfect.Use the few block with a turbo 2 front cover and oil pan so you can use stock mounts.use a s5 na flywheel and keep your stock drivetrain.Use a s4 or s5 turbo and manifold with a aftermarket downpipe.use all turbo electronics and keep the fd upper intake and throtle body and it should run.If you need more info on how to do this after this I am sorry then you should be attempting to do this swap at all

 

the REW even with an FC cover/pan takes modification to allow the mounts to bolt on(no threads on the bottom of the center iron which need to be drilled and tapped carefully, preferrably with the engine disassembled), and the REW doesn't have much support for the driver side mount to even use an adapter.

it can be done but a series 5 turbo II is nearly equal with the REW until about 400whp. most people will never even tap into the potential of the REW, which is above 500whp and its superior reinforcement to handle the power.

the series 4 turbo II is what i call the "dyno queen" engine, but it has the weakest casting of all the turbo engines yet can't even make the power reliably due to iron failures without studding required and has no nuts in the low end/midrange.


so if it were me and i didn't feel like cutting myself i would sell the REW and buy an S5 TII block, you could probably buy a complete long block for the same price as a REW short block after selling it(since in his other thread he also mentioned he only has a REW short block and to make it work takes several methods of modification to install for minimal benefit, where the TII drops right in and gives broader solutions to get the car up and driving).

 

Oh jeez... if he has only the bare block then it is pointless. For the fabrication involved, it'd be easier and cheaper to buy a complete TII engine and use the REW block as an end table.

 

This is 110% the best way also you will make more money breaking the REW block down & parting it out!

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If he does go the end table route, I'd take the internals off his hands. ... And the rotor housings if I exchange them with 86 na rotor housings. Just throwing it out there.

Seriously note though buy a series 5 turbo engine and be done with it. If you go through all the work to switch engine types put a turbo in it. At least then you'll have real performance to show for your efforts.