replacing the rear iron
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
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From: Woodbine, MD
replacing the rear iron
I just cracked a rear iron... so I'm curious if I can just replace the rear iron without dissembling the from cover/stack? I'll test the end-play afterwards... it doesn't seem like it should cause any issues.
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,018
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From: Kansas City, MO
Just for you brother, i owe you one.
Not saying this is an ideal situation or brilliant idea, but its out there.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/
Not saying this is an ideal situation or brilliant idea, but its out there.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 18
From: Woodbine, MD
Thanks! Good to know I need to compress the other layers.
Anyone know if I'll get the nice rear iron with the FD style big oil pin casting if I order a new one from Mazda?
Anyone know if I'll get the nice rear iron with the FD style big oil pin casting if I order a new one from Mazda?
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 31,835
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,189
Likes: 18
From: Woodbine, MD
Where did you mount the wood clamp you mention in the other thread? I'm planning on keeping the turbo, LIM, and oil pan on so there aren't a lot of places to put it... I was thinking about putting a bolt into the threaded hole above the spark plugs and clamping against that, but I can't see how the other side is going to stay together, if anything I feel like I might pry the opposite side apart with the leverage.
on the boss located on top of the rear rotor housing to the front iron, then one underneath the rotor housing on one of the legs.
you only really need 2 clamps on either side of the engine to hold it together while disassembling.
you only really need 2 clamps on either side of the engine to hold it together while disassembling.
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you can do it that way, you just have to be a little more careful(stuff a rag in the oil pan opening so bits don't fall in). there is a few tips in the linked thread such as shimming the intake so it won't interfere with the iron. technically if you do it that way you would only need to find a way to clamp the top driver side of the engine.
Just for you brother, i owe you one.
Not saying this is an ideal situation or brilliant idea, but its out there.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/
Not saying this is an ideal situation or brilliant idea, but its out there.
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/
^^^ I'll have you know, after the repair THAT engine nearly completed (about an hour shy) LeMons race last year. The turbo grenaded and was spewing oil everywhere. Rear iron repair was fine.
We are racing it again at the end of this month. I just compression tested it and its low 80's all around at 200 rpm cranking speed. Not wonderful but not bad. For a LeMon. That's broken a font iron. And a rear iron. And reused all hard seals after each repair.
I say go for it.
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