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replacing the rear iron

Old Sep 15, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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replacing the rear iron

I just cracked a rear iron... so I'm curious if I can just replace the rear iron without dissembling the from cover/stack? I'll test the end-play afterwards... it doesn't seem like it should cause any issues.
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Old Sep 15, 2013 | 11:16 PM
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Just for you brother, i owe you one.

Not saying this is an ideal situation or brilliant idea, but its out there.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 08:52 AM
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Thanks! Good to know I need to compress the other layers.

Anyone know if I'll get the nice rear iron with the FD style big oil pin casting if I order a new one from Mazda?
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by eage8
Thanks! Good to know I need to compress the other layers.

Anyone know if I'll get the nice rear iron with the FD style big oil pin casting if I order a new one from Mazda?
yes the new ones are all the big style
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Old Sep 16, 2013 | 12:45 PM
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and be sure you flip the engine *** up, i tried to be lazy about it once and an apex seal boot popped out and ruined the back half of the engine.
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Old Sep 17, 2013 | 11:40 PM
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From: Woodbine, MD
Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
and be sure you flip the engine *** up, i tried to be lazy about it once and an apex seal boot popped out and ruined the back half of the engine.
Karak,

Where did you mount the wood clamp you mention in the other thread? I'm planning on keeping the turbo, LIM, and oil pan on so there aren't a lot of places to put it... I was thinking about putting a bolt into the threaded hole above the spark plugs and clamping against that, but I can't see how the other side is going to stay together, if anything I feel like I might pry the opposite side apart with the leverage.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:02 PM
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on the boss located on top of the rear rotor housing to the front iron, then one underneath the rotor housing on one of the legs.

you only really need 2 clamps on either side of the engine to hold it together while disassembling.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:05 PM
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you think leaving the LIM and the oil pan attached is a good idea? will they help hold it together at all?
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 12:41 PM
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you can do it that way, you just have to be a little more careful(stuff a rag in the oil pan opening so bits don't fall in). there is a few tips in the linked thread such as shimming the intake so it won't interfere with the iron. technically if you do it that way you would only need to find a way to clamp the top driver side of the engine.
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Old Sep 18, 2013 | 06:54 PM
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From: Alvin, TX
Originally Posted by BurntOrangeT2
Just for you brother, i owe you one.

Not saying this is an ideal situation or brilliant idea, but its out there.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/

^^^ I'll have you know, after the repair THAT engine nearly completed (about an hour shy) LeMons race last year. The turbo grenaded and was spewing oil everywhere. Rear iron repair was fine.

We are racing it again at the end of this month. I just compression tested it and its low 80's all around at 200 rpm cranking speed. Not wonderful but not bad. For a LeMon. That's broken a font iron. And a rear iron. And reused all hard seals after each repair.

I say go for it.
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Old Oct 23, 2013 | 07:20 PM
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Wants to destroy itself haa
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