RXinator

I've got an 88' vert, N/A. Recently I noticed that under load ( hills) a throaty moan was developing under the hood. Overall did'nt appear to be a problem , was kind of sexy. Then a bit later I noticed a loss of power under load. Time marched on & now the loss of power is extreme, I can barely get it up my driveway. Step on the gas & she will howl up to 4 grand & then start to choke & approach a stall. She idles O.K. & seems to be ok up to 2K revs, after that she moans. My training says look for the simplest or most recently changed.

• I've checked the plugs, seem to be ok slightly carbonized but nothing unusual. Cleaned them up & reinstalled.
• Removed the K&N air filter, fired it up-no change except louder howling!
  • Suspecting I may have lost an injector, I checked the plug connectors. Seem to be functional & connected.

My guess is that it's a fuel delivery or massive vacumn leak problem. I can't locate any blown hoses or whistle noises. What's your take on what to check next.

DRFT_HRD

iTrader: (7)

check your tps and make sure your tb is opening all the way.

RXinator

O.K. tps (throttle position sensor??)If this is the device we're talking about I understand it's an electrical component. I found this on line. How do you check for TB ( throttle body??) for full open

Making a Throttle Position Sensor Test Lamp(Dana Sullivan)

You can make a test light yourself fairly easily. Take two turn signal bulbs or similar type lights and solder a piece of wire between the two cans of the bulbs. Take another length of wire and solder one end to one can. This wire is your common ground wire, this will attach to the Black w/white stripe wire (ground) on the gang plug.

There should be 2 wires running out of the two remaining connectors. Solder a piece of wire to the + terminal of each light bulb and run one each to the two remaining connectors.

Throttle Position Sensor Adjustment (Glenn Heidel)

1) Warm up the engine, then stop it.

2) Connect the checker lamp to the check connector (green).

3) Turn the ignition switch on and check whether one of the lamp illuminates.

4) If both lamps illuminate or if neither does, turn the throttle sensor adjust screw until one of the lamps illuminates.

a) If both lamps illuminate turn the adjust screw clockwise.

b) If both lamps do not illuminate turn the adjust screw counterclockwise.

I'd just like to add that I found the best results by turning the screw counter-clockwise until I obtained condition 4)a) above (both lit) then I turned the screw clockwise until one light went out + 1/8 turn of the screw. This assures the throttle is as close to actually closed as possible when the sensor indicates that condition to the computer. (Thus giving you the smoothest transition on/off idle.)

davesrx7

admitedly i dont have a rx7 and this thread just caught my eye

it sounds to me like a earthing problem and the general trend of these cars is this a big problem ..sounds like a screaming relay (fuel pump ) so just a idea throw a dirty big earth strap on engine -chasy and chasy to battery

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

You can also use a multimeter....

1 engine full warmed turn it off and leave key on "ON" position
2 disconnect tps
3 connect multimeter device to green wire with the red needle and black wire to black needle
4 turn meter device to ohms
5 Closed throttle should be 1k ohms while WOT should be around 4-5k Ohms. Adjust to suit.

There's also a section in the FSM for setting this.

On another note have your catalytic converters checked out as they may be clogged.

BTW nice thread title!