Speedworks

Jep... I think it's time to go for a rebuild... now, I'm lucky enough to have a spare engine to work on. It came with all anxiliaries like turbo's, complete intake manifold, airpump etc...

It's been sitting around here for about a year and in the meantime I've steadily been gathering some info on how and what.

Some pointer to start with.

Base: 93 US spec 13B engine stock as hell. bought it of a friend who replaced his with a Reman due to an oil leak on (now) my engine. Nothing more, nothing less.

Current MOD list: full 3" exhaust (HKS DP, Custom MP with Bonez HF cat, 3" catback), Apexi PFC, Pettit AST, HKS filters.


Goal: approx. 400HP engine with some porting, no airpump,no A/C. A long block as simple as possible given the conditions.

-streetport: i will try to do this myself as there are few roatary specialists around here (none)
source:http://www.rotaryengineillustrated.com/re101/ports.php

-Modded oil metering pump to take lubricant from a separate tank.
Given the evaluations I have read, the limited mileage I do with the car (weekend/fun car) I guess it must be doalbe to make this work.
evaluation thread: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...l+pump+adapter
Part: http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm

This does not add to the "simple" concept of the engine but will contribute in a very good way to ensure reliability of the engine.

-3mm seals:Why? Well this issue has been sicussed many times before. Basic rule is you go with 3mm seals if you don't have a (very) good tuner available and might get yourself in some unsafe tuning area. As I said, few roatary experts live around here.
Source? no Idea yet. RA, Atkins,Pineapple,Pettit,other?

-deletion of airpump and A/C

-Full Non-seq conversion+ block off plates: this to later have an easy switch to a single turbo (GT35r). As i posted in some other thread the issue of non seq urbo's not getting full boost till +-3000rpm might also be an advantage as it allows you to get some better mileage in low rpm's (example: city traffic)

-Adjustfuel system with HF pump, FPR and some secondairy injectors (1350cc sec's?) not sure about this part yet.

I will be starting the teardown off the long/short block very soon and will try to post as many pics as possible. this might take some time but I guess you better do these kind of thing the right way at first attempt.

If anybody wants to add some advice on any aspect of hte points above, feel free.

Many thanks,
Neal

Speedworks

Ok, I know nothing new about the above. but my intention is to support all the action taken above with enough evidence, links and tech talk quotes to maybe help others to decide what they want to go for. I have noticed that many people ask thesame questions over and over.

I'm no rotoary guru AT ALL but I just feel like contributing

skim41

Do it, you wont regret it. However, if I were you I wouldnt go for 3mm seals, its a very costly increase, and 2mm seals will be fine. Also the machining you need for milling the rotors is expensive due to the tight tolerances.

FB II

yep, what he said. if you are doing this yourself then your going to get in to serious situations trying to properly set the block up for 3mm seals. i wouldn't waste the extra time/ money involved. 2mm are plenty safe

Speedworks

Hey guys, thanks for the info. I did some more reading and research in the meantime and I was plannning to go with 2mm seals. Question still remains what brand of apex'es but I my preferrence is going to Mazda ones. Still a bit in the dark to go with solid corner seals or the ones with the rubber insert (stock). It seems solids tend to initiate faster wear on the side plates. I do intend to drive this thing more than 10.000km's without having to open up the engien again. To big of an investment.

I also got my DIY-Re DVD set *drool* which proides excellent info on the build-up, tips & tricks. NExt thing is to buy a decent engine stand, surface meter, torque wrench and a damned big socket for the flywheel nut (large sucker)

Rogier, what gasket kit did you buy and where did you get al the rotor gaskets(oilcontrol,side seals etc)??

thanks

Speedworks

Well, it's been a while, I know, but that doesn't mean I've not been busy. after some extra searching around and evaluating the possibilities of getting the 3mm rotor milling done I have decided to stick to the 2 mm option. Not having figgered out wether I will use the RA seals or the Mazda ones as I have not yet decided with which rebuild I will go (RA does not include oilpan seal???)

For the rest i have mocked the engine up on an engine stand, which was a pain in the *** finding the correct bolts.

Next was the complete teardown to the short block. Exhaust manifold is cracked (as expected) abd the "door" was very loose. No idea if that's how it's supposed to be. Anyway, that one will be a gone after the non-seq converstion.

Fkywheel was relatively easy to get of, using a 54mm socket and a 2 meter bar to pull. I attached a chain with a bolt into the flywheel and another bolt into the front housing ( the hole where you bolt the clutch inspection plate on.

Harder was the excentric shaf bolt holding down the front cover items like the oil pump.
it uses a 19mm socket and trust me, you won't get it of easy. best trick is to heat the bolt with a torch. It needs to be hot, NOT red hot!!. Before pulling ALWAYS coolit it down quickly with ice water. then pull the wrench untill it "clicks" loose. DON NOT turniit loose all the way. The bolt may still disform and harden in the shaft. it won't ruin your day, but your whole week, trust me.

So, lossen the bolt just a fraction and an cool with water untill room temperature, then carefully turn it out.

Next you can slide of the main pulley adaptor and start to lossen the frontcover bolts.

That's where I'm at for now... pics will be posted soon and I'm off to get the engine apart, right down to the end plate.

Greetz
Neal