Power but goes black
08-04-14, 07:28 PM
#1
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Power but goes black
Ok first off, I have searched the forums, google ect ect for days now and I'm not sure what to search. I have power but it will not turn over. I have replaced the starter and alternator due to this still with no luck. I have checked the clutch engage switch even though it is bypassed, I plugged it back in. I have kinda gone through my fuses but most are new. There was a clicking underneath the dash prior to all this happening. Obviously probably a short? Or ignition switch? Bad ground? It's probably one of these three but where should I start and how should I go about it. Just tell me what I need to search for? I feel I have typed an abundant combination of words to no avail. I downloaded the service manual today so I have that. Links. Thrashings welcome. Help.
08-05-14, 11:40 AM
#4
The starter has a B/W wire running to it and it's connected to the starter solenoid. W/key to start it should have voltage. Is this how it's getting voltage or are you talking about the large gauge wire coming from the battery?
The B/W wire to the solenoid comes from the starter cut relay located next to the main relay. The starter cut relay has only one plug and 4 wires w/one of these wires being the B/W starter solenoid wire. W/key to start the thicker of the two Black/Green wires at this relay should have voltage. When it does the voltage is passed on to the B/W wire. The B/G wire mentioned gets power only if the interlock switch at the top of the clutch pedal is depressed w/key to start. If it doesn't have voltage under the specified conditions then there is an issue at the interlock switch possibly.
Sometimes the voltage that needs to be present is there but the amperage is not. If that were the case then the connections at the battery and other components mentioned are faulty and need to be redone. And the solid Black wire at the ignition switch requires the proper voltage and amperage which is passed on to the Black/Red wire (w/key to start) at the ignition switch found in its own plug which then leads to the interlock and then on to the relay and finally on to the starter solenoid.
The B/W wire to the solenoid comes from the starter cut relay located next to the main relay. The starter cut relay has only one plug and 4 wires w/one of these wires being the B/W starter solenoid wire. W/key to start the thicker of the two Black/Green wires at this relay should have voltage. When it does the voltage is passed on to the B/W wire. The B/G wire mentioned gets power only if the interlock switch at the top of the clutch pedal is depressed w/key to start. If it doesn't have voltage under the specified conditions then there is an issue at the interlock switch possibly.
Sometimes the voltage that needs to be present is there but the amperage is not. If that were the case then the connections at the battery and other components mentioned are faulty and need to be redone. And the solid Black wire at the ignition switch requires the proper voltage and amperage which is passed on to the Black/Red wire (w/key to start) at the ignition switch found in its own plug which then leads to the interlock and then on to the relay and finally on to the starter solenoid.
08-05-14, 04:39 PM
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I appreciate this! It is a zillion degrees here in houston so I will visit these pointers either this eve or this weekend. So am I correct in assuming the ignition cut relay could be the culprit, and if so I can bypass it correct? And your assumption on how I tested the power was correct, and after reading how to properly do it, I felt kinda retarded. I appreciate your help! I will keep you posted when it cools down.
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08-08-14, 02:48 PM
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Satch, I read some more of your threads that also address some other trouble shooting options. I appreciate your dedication and help to the community. If what you stated in this post doesn't help, them I will address the issues you pointed out in a 2010 post. Somehow I didn't run across these in my previous searches, but now that I have your handle, a lot of stuff comes up. 
I am going I buy and optima red top today because I don't know how old the battery is in my car. So I figure replacing things that generally need to eventually be done, might as well do it now to narrow the range of things that it could be. Thank you again for your device to the community.
I am going I buy and optima red top today because I don't know how old the battery is in my car. So I figure replacing things that generally need to eventually be done, might as well do it now to narrow the range of things that it could be. Thank you again for your device to the community.
08-08-14, 04:05 PM
#12
Satch, I read some more of your threads that also address some other trouble shooting options. I appreciate your dedication and help to the community. If what you stated in this post doesn't help, them I will address the issues you pointed out in a 2010 post. Somehow I didn't run across these in my previous searches, but now that I have your handle, a lot of stuff comes up. I am going I buy and optima red top today because I don't know how old the battery is in my car. So I figure replacing things that generally need to eventually be done, might as well do it now to narrow the range of things that it could be. Thank you again for your device to the community.
I am going I buy and optima red top today because I don't know how old the battery is in my car. So I figure replacing things that generally need to eventually be done, might as well do it now to narrow the range of things that it could be. Thank you again for your device to the community.
08-08-14, 08:44 PM
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Have you tried just jumping across the solenoid at the starter? If it turns over your battery and connections to it are good and the previous posts are the way to go If it doesn't then trouble shoot towards the battery. This is probably to late to be of any use to you but I tried.
Dave
Dave
08-09-14, 01:05 PM
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Ok so far I have determined that the brand new starter is getting power and there is voltage at the S terminal (about 11 volts) when turning to start position. Where to go from here.
08-09-14, 01:33 PM
#17
There are two places which receives voltage at the starter. One comes directly from the battery while the other one runs to the starter solenoid. Which one did you measure? (I myself don't bother w/the silly code letters used in the FSM as it just complicates matters when trying to explain things to others I have found). If you measured the one from the battery then do as the other poster suggested which would be to use the shank of a screwdriver to bridge the battery supplied voltage terminal to the starter solenoid and the starter should engage each and every time. And this would be done w/the car in neutral.
Last edited by satch; 08-09-14 at 01:36 PM.
08-09-14, 03:46 PM
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Ok I'm on it right now. So if it engages it's in the ignition.. When I push start and drive it I have noticed a clickin noise from right under the cluster. Just a FYI. If the starter engages then I'm going to look for a short/ bad ground coming from ignition...i really want to drive my fc!!!
08-09-14, 04:01 PM
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Ok so the starter motor spun but I noticed it didn't engage the flywheel looking up in that little hole. Then when I tried to turn it over I could hear the little wheel that engages the flywheel at least kick out. That's the first time it's even done that.
08-09-14, 04:04 PM
#21
You still need to bridge the two terminals at the starter as previously suggested. This will tell you the condition of the starter and some of its connections.
The starter should turn over if the spade connector has 11 volts w/key to start. If it doesn't then either there is not enough amperage at this wire or the starter itself is at fault (could be the solenoid or perhaps the brushes inside the starter) or the starter connections from the battery are poor.
The starter should turn over if the spade connector has 11 volts w/key to start. If it doesn't then either there is not enough amperage at this wire or the starter itself is at fault (could be the solenoid or perhaps the brushes inside the starter) or the starter connections from the battery are poor.
08-09-14, 04:09 PM
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Yeah that's when it spun, when I bridged it. I'm guessing it's the amperage being passed through the spade wire on the solenoid. Btw the starter, battery, alternator are just days old.
08-09-14, 04:34 PM
#24
Then locate the starter cut relay by the trailing coil. Relay has only one plug w/four wires. One of these wires is B/W, it's the same wire at the solenoid spade connector. Supply voltage from the battery to this wire and see if the starter turns over or not.
08-09-14, 04:38 PM
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Ok I just push started it cause I just put some protek r and about 10 gallons of gas in just to get it all mixed up. And what ever the issue I am have has to do with the clicking I'm hearing under the dash. It won't let me go over about 3500 rpm just when the turbo starts to spool it struggles. Oh the fc gremlins are at it today.