Some after market set up re route the boost blow off to the intake. You might be able to rig something up.

Post a pick of the blow-off valve in location. Someone might have an idea.

Have tested the MAP sensor.?

Is the MAP sensor filter facing the right way?

 

On my PFC Commander there is a screen that shows about 16 sensor readings, including the low and high range TPS readings.

If you can find that screen, it is easy enough to see the TPS move through its range when you press the gas pedal. You can do this without the car running.

 

You may or may not be able to get to these screens on your commander. Warning: There are certain screens you can get to that you do not want to change any of the settings.


Second screen from the top on the right, lines 2&3 in the left column are the tps readings. When you press the gas pedal the reading on line 2 should increase and decrease, whereas the reading on line 3 stays pretty constant. The allowable ranges are in the uSDM FSM.
Sory the pic is hard to read. Its the best I have got atm.

My friend says "never go into the "all data initi, you can accidently delete the map".

 

Therer is all kinds of Power FC advise on here. Here is one link I was given before.

It can be bewildering.

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...roblems-83016/

 

Here is another link.

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...needed-841706/

 

I appreciate it, I have checked my tps. Actually it was the first thing I checked . All readings are within range. Everything reads normal, my FPR reads normal at idle and throttled, water and air temps vary each time it happens, changed the fuel pump, that’s why nothing makes sense. Changing the spark plugs next, just need it to stop raining.

 

Its very frustrating I am sure. I went through a long exercise to get my car running again recently, after an apparant simple fuel flooding event.

You just have ot keepplugging away at it.

I keep going back to the TPS because another member found that although his tested OK, it went out of range when the car was hot after a spirited drive.

I don't know if discussion of that particular particularity would come up anywhere on RX7club.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...esome-1161545/

 

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...-605065/page7/

 

https://fc-datalogit.co.nz/

 

Update.
I finally switched out the spark plugs. But it didn’t solve the problem. Still choking and dying on me like it’s fuel starved. Guess it’s on to datalogix next.

 

the guy who does FC Tweak the software just released a new interface box for the PFC, it replaces the Datalogit.
there are lots of reasons why this is good, datalogging is way faster, only 1 piece of software instead of 2, no stupid USB adaptors etc etc

he's not a vendor here, so can't sell it here, but he's active in the google PFC group and i think on Facebook as well

 

So I was playing with my Commander and parked idle vta1 is .44, vta2 is .95
when I step on the throttle vta1 gets to .9, vta2 gets to 2.10 then the engine starts to cut out like when I’m driving. This is new, didn’t happen before.
I cannot accelerate at all without the engine dying, cannot even pull it into the garage because it dies when I hit the gas.
any suggestions with this new info? I’m trying everything and getting nowhere, and my readings have now changed from when I started chasing this rabbit.

 

 

Borrow somkelses TPS and try that.

I just looked at the video of my ranges yesterday.

Both VTA1 and VTA2 rub up to 4.95.

 

This does not give the range, Probably have to look in the FSM.

Refer to page F-158 in the USDM FSM (my copy is actually missing that page!).

 

FSM talks about what a wonky TPS might cause.

 

I searched the forums and know what the ranges should be, that’s why I’m stumped as to why whenever it hits 2.10 and .9 it starts choking and cutting out. Wasn’t sure if there was anything similar someone else had run into that may shed some light.
2.10 and .9 are way under normal open numbers.

 

Here are the ranges from the JDM FSM:

VTA1 = Fully closed: 0.75~1.25V; Fully Open: 4.8~5.0V
VTA2 = Fully Closed: 0.1-0.7V; Fully open: 4.2V~4.6V

 

ECU relies on the signal from the TPS, eh? If the signal stalls at the low numbers, the ECU gets confused?

So is your TPS faulty?

I.e your throttle is still moving open, but the ecu does not get the news?

The engine is sucking in more air, but the ecu is not increasing injectors flow.

When you are idling in neutral, or with the clutch in, what is your injector duty showing when you rev. up?

 

that makes sense…. Guess it time to borrow one and find out for sure.

 

its more important to set the TPS so its correct at a warm/hot idle, or throttle closed.
the PFC uses the TPS to do "Fuel Projected Power Enrichment" basically it uses RPM, throttle opening and the rate of change in the throttle to add enrichment.
it kind of predicts how much more airflow there would be if you stomped on the pedal. it needs the TPS to do that.

 

Where can you buy a TPS nowadays?

 

Mazda Japan

 

So I’m pretty sure it’s my TPS now. I unplugged the TPS and it didn’t stall out at idle finally. Checked continuity and none of the prongs beeped.
That being said, how the hell do you get the screws to the TPS off? I don’t have a short enough screwdriver to fit back there and cannot even see the bottom screw.
any advice?
So close to being able to drive and Mazda made it impossible to do a simple task yet again.