oils and premix oils I should use
oils and premix oils I should use
Ok I'm wondering what's the best 2 stroke oil (brands) I should run for premix with no omp? And what's the amount of oil I should run for 10gals of gas?
Also I know this question is gonna start a war but synthetic or conventional oil? Again what brands, weight, and best protection. I live in Pennsylvania so the summer Temps are normally 80*-90*
I have a 94 13b rew single turbo in a fb not currently running yet has 20k stock motor has had conventional ran that entire time should I switch to synthetic or stay conventional?
Also I know this question is gonna start a war but synthetic or conventional oil? Again what brands, weight, and best protection. I live in Pennsylvania so the summer Temps are normally 80*-90*
I have a 94 13b rew single turbo in a fb not currently running yet has 20k stock motor has had conventional ran that entire time should I switch to synthetic or stay conventional?
http://www.idemitsu-usa.com/
available from Rotorsports Racing
RotorSports Racing Mazda RX-7 rotary engines and performance modifications shop
available from Rotorsports Racing
RotorSports Racing Mazda RX-7 rotary engines and performance modifications shop
No two people will give you the same answers but here is my strategy.
If it has a turbo I use synthetic, I find a brand that has no or very low ash content to reduce carbon. Without turbo I just go with Castrol GTX.
I run a heavy oil, 20-50 or something close to that. Except if I am using the car in a cold winter then I would probably go to 10-40
For premix I usually just go with whatever is available at the gas station and add about an ounce per gallon in my REPU with no OMP.
If it has a turbo I use synthetic, I find a brand that has no or very low ash content to reduce carbon. Without turbo I just go with Castrol GTX.
I run a heavy oil, 20-50 or something close to that. Except if I am using the car in a cold winter then I would probably go to 10-40
For premix I usually just go with whatever is available at the gas station and add about an ounce per gallon in my REPU with no OMP.
No two people will give you the same answers but here is my strategy.
If it has a turbo I use synthetic, I find a brand that has no or very low ash content to reduce carbon. Without turbo I just go with Castrol GTX.
I run a heavy oil, 20-50 or something close to that. Except if I am using the car in a cold winter then I would probably go to 10-40
For premix I usually just go with whatever is available at the gas station and add about an ounce per gallon in my REPU with no OMP.
If it has a turbo I use synthetic, I find a brand that has no or very low ash content to reduce carbon. Without turbo I just go with Castrol GTX.
I run a heavy oil, 20-50 or something close to that. Except if I am using the car in a cold winter then I would probably go to 10-40
For premix I usually just go with whatever is available at the gas station and add about an ounce per gallon in my REPU with no OMP.
The wankel engine has very little blow by in comparison to a piston engine so really, oil decomposition is slower because of less contamination and is mostly caused by heat.
With that said, I'd just run dyno oil at 10w-30 for the winter and 10-w40 for the summer where you live. Since I live in Texas, I run 10w-30 in the winter and 20w-50 in the summer.
I know nothing about foam fuel cells so I cannot answer that question.
As far as premix, if it is labeled TCW-3 you are good to go but I am VERY wary of supertech because it smells like kerosene. I personally use Valvoline 2 stroke oil for premix. I'd rather use the Idemitsu premix (and I did for years) but it is expensive.
edit: Even though I know nothing about foam fuel cells, I do know how premix works chemically. Two stroke oil is completely soluble in gasoline so if the oil is going to stick to the foam, so is the gasoline. The only time gasoline and 2 stroke separate is when gasoline vaporizes (two stroke oil has a high vapor pressure so it turns into droplets when the gas vaporizes). Some oil may get left behind on the foam due to gasoline naturally evaporating, but if it gets gas on a regular basis, the new fuel should dissolve the left over oil easily.
With that said, I'd just run dyno oil at 10w-30 for the winter and 10-w40 for the summer where you live. Since I live in Texas, I run 10w-30 in the winter and 20w-50 in the summer.
I know nothing about foam fuel cells so I cannot answer that question.
As far as premix, if it is labeled TCW-3 you are good to go but I am VERY wary of supertech because it smells like kerosene. I personally use Valvoline 2 stroke oil for premix. I'd rather use the Idemitsu premix (and I did for years) but it is expensive.
edit: Even though I know nothing about foam fuel cells, I do know how premix works chemically. Two stroke oil is completely soluble in gasoline so if the oil is going to stick to the foam, so is the gasoline. The only time gasoline and 2 stroke separate is when gasoline vaporizes (two stroke oil has a high vapor pressure so it turns into droplets when the gas vaporizes). Some oil may get left behind on the foam due to gasoline naturally evaporating, but if it gets gas on a regular basis, the new fuel should dissolve the left over oil easily.
The reason I choose synthetic for turbo applications is because turbos get really hot and oil sits in them after you shut down. Synthetic handles the heat better. I used to run Royal Purple but the last couple changes were with Mobile1 because it was on sale. As long as your synthetic has low ash count it is good enough for my standards.
For non-turbo I just run Castrol GTX, probably doesn't matter too much which dinosaur oil you run as long as you run a proper weight.
For non-turbo I just run Castrol GTX, probably doesn't matter too much which dinosaur oil you run as long as you run a proper weight.
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